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1982 Goldwing 1100 Interstate
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've rebuilt my carbs with Randakk's kit. I've actually had them out a few times because I couldn't get it to not burp while warming up. But... this last time, I've put back in and now, it starts up ok, but RPMs race to 6,000 to 7,000 rpms and won't idle. The idle screw can be all the way out and still no drop in RPMs. All the linkage seems to be working correctly. I think the only thing I did differently this time (that I'm aware of other than clean real good.. spent an inordinate amount of time setting the float heights etc) is I set the sync screws according to the tutorial at the site: http://filipi.com/ngw/roady/Carb_Overhaul_GL1100.pdf
This seems a bit different than what Randakk says: "loosen the lock nut and screw the synchronizer screw clockwise until the slotted head is flush with the lock nut." He says to do this on carb #1 and #2 and not on #4. I've tried this both ways and the engine still races when I start it up. I have to shut it down right away, thinking this can't be good. I don't think the sync adjustment would make it race, but I have no idea. I did double check the linkage between #1 and #3 is between the two washers as this seems to be a problem I've seen on this site. Any ideas what I'm missing to make this thing want to take off to to moon?
 

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I've rebuilt my carbs with Randakk's kit. I've actually had them out a few times because I couldn't get it to not burp while warming up. But... this last time, I've put back in and now, it starts up ok, but RPMs race to 6,000 to 7,000 rpms and won't idle. The idle screw can be all the way out and still no drop in RPMs. All the linkage seems to be working correctly. I think the only thing I did differently this time (that I'm aware of other than clean real good.. spent an inordinate amount of time setting the float heights etc) is I set the sync screws according to the tutorial at the site: http://filipi.com/ngw/roady/Carb_Overhaul_GL1100.pdf
This seems a bit different than what Randakk says: "loosen the lock nut and screw the synchronizer screw clockwise until the slotted head is flush with the lock nut." He says to do this on carb #1 and #2 and not on #4. I've tried this both ways and the engine still races when I start it up. I have to shut it down right away, thinking this can't be good. I don't think the sync adjustment would make it race, but I have no idea. I did double check the linkage between #1 and #3 is between the two washers as this seems to be a problem I've seen on this site. Any ideas what I'm missing to make this thing want to take off to to moon?
I never adjust the syncs during a tear down, just leave them as they were until I do the sync after the rebuild and its normally not too far off.

Also, the air screws typicly work fine at the factory initail settings, and neither that or the floats will make the bike do what yours is doing.

If you did not already: check the syncs between the carbs, check ALL the linkage for binding and being correct, check the cables that they are mounted correctly and not binding, check to see if the idle set screw is actually in contact with the stop, check for vacuum leaks, check for sticking vacuum pistions, check to see that all the needles are sitting in the jets.


Bill
 

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What you have done by adjusting the synch screws like you did is cause those 2 to hold the other 2 open. What you are going to have to do now is back those screws out and do a bench synch (you can do it with the carbs in place, just remove the intakes). The with a thin feeler gauge or a steel wire adjust #3 with the main idle screw until the gauge or wire has a slight drag from under the throttle plate. Then adjust the other 3 in the same manner. You should then be able to do a vacuum synch.
 

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You can get it not to race just by backing off the synch screws..get them close with bike running by ear..then try to synch with guage or as said above pull intakes and adjust butterflies with a gauge..(a long needle works..)
 

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1982 Goldwing 1100 Interstate
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I got around to trying to doing the 'bench sync' adjust on the carbs today. I used a .010 inch guitar string for my feeler gauge. Is that too small? While I had the intakes off, I happened to look down into the valves. #1 seemed a little wetter than #3. adjusted the butterflies with my guitar string (they were way too open). I then went to carbs #2 and 4. Lo and behold I see a puddle of standing fuel inside the #2... That valve was closed, # 4 was open and looked dry. I wicked out the standing fuel with a paper towel and a big 'ol "Q-Tip" I made with a rag and a screw driver. I'm going back out and finish my adjustments and start it up and see if it races. I think I'll turn it over a few times after my adjustment to make sure that valve is opening and closing. Is this standing fuel supposed to be telling me something or maybe just there because the sync was so off?
 

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That is a sign the carbs where the fuel is standing are flooding over. While you have the intakes off turn the kill switch off and crank it over to see if fuel flows out of the carbs, if it does you have a float or needle valve problem.
 

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1982 Goldwing 1100 Interstate
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147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I got it back together before I read DaveO430's last entry. I tried turning it over and nothing.. klunk. I figured hydrolock (is that correct??). Anyway, took the spark plugs out and then turned it over. Sho nuff gas came flying out of cylinder #2 where the fuel was observed sitting. Put everything back together again and started it up. STILL is racing. After starting, it will go to 5000 rpm and stays. Dave... If I take the intakes back off and crank it, where will I see fuel flowing out... I guess where the intakes connect at the carb? Also, will it just come out of the carb having the float / needle valve issue? If it does indeed look like a float/needle valve issue, what specifically should I look for? Looks like the carbs may have to come back out again tomorrow???
 

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Well I got it back together before I read DaveO430's last entry. I tried turning it over and nothing.. klunk. I figured hydrolock (is that correct??). Anyway, took the spark plugs out and then turned it over. Sho nuff gas came flying out of cylinder #2 where the fuel was observed sitting. Put everything back together again and started it up. STILL is racing. After starting, it will go to 5000 rpm and stays. Dave... If I take the intakes back off and crank it, where will I see fuel flowing out... I guess where the intakes connect at the carb? Also, will it just come out of the carb having the float / needle valve issue? If it does indeed look like a float/needle valve issue, what specifically should I look for? Looks like the carbs may have to come back out again tomorrow???

If it is a float/needle valve issue gas will flow out the throats of the affected carbs. Also look for fuel in the plenum, could be a plenum gasket problem. Take the bowls off and recheck the float levels, adjust as necessary then attach a hose to the fuel inlet and with the carbs upside down blow on the hose and see if it leaks past the needle valves. The guitar string bench synch should be a good starting point but it will have the idle really high, back the main screw out until they are closed then back in about 1/2 turn after the screw touches, should be a close starting point for the idle speed.
 

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1982 Goldwing 1100 Interstate
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This morning I took the intakes off again and cranked it. No fuel coming from any of the throats and I see nothing in the plenum (air box off). So out came the carbs again. I drained each bowl and measured the fuel in each for fun. All 4 had about 50ml (or very close). turned carb upside down, attached hose to fuel intake on carb #3 and blew. No leaks anywhere. All the float valves are free and spring in and out. I rechecked the float heights and all right at 15.5mm at all 4 corners. All the vacuum pistons are free moving and needles going into the needle jets fine. All the linkage looks right and moving good.. accelerator and choke. I've checked the idle air mixture screws.. all at 3 turns out like the book says. Everything as clean as I put it back together. Going back out there now to check all the jets, filters and anything else I can get at. Any ideas of what else I can check while I have them back out for the umteenth time?
 

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Yes, while you have the carbs out get yourself a plastic tube to fit the fuel delivery port into the carb, rig it so you can pour some fuel down the tube, the idea is to fill the float bowls with fuel using gravity, pour fuel into the tube until it stops, now you may want to place the carb body into a plastic pan or something like that, make sure the carbs are level or laying flat, once the fuel stops raise the carbs up carefully and look into the chambers that go to the intakes and if any of the float bowls are not holding you will see fuel dribbling out, if everything is bone dry that means the float needles are sealing well and doing their job if you do see dribbling you will know which carb has a leaky float needle...Pour out the fuel through the tube and place back on the bike..I know this isn't your problem but now you know a way to test the float needles if you didn't before..
 

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1982 Goldwing 1100 Interstate
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147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The only difference I see in carb #2 is that the vacuum piston needle is slightly discolored at the pointed end that goes into the needle jet. I took the jet out and it looks pretty good, only slight wear from installing it. I guess I could swp the needle from and seat (not changing the piston itself and put see if the issue follows the change. Still not sure if this would be the cause of RPMs racing. Any thoughts?
 

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The main jet needle will not cause fuel overflow or high idle, the level in the bowls has to be too high to do that. There should be about 42-44cc in each bowl, 50 I think is too much. Check that the line on the floats looks parallel to the carb surface with the carbs tilted so the floats rest lightly on the needle valves.
 

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2000 GL1500SE
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1982 Goldwing 1100 Interstate
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147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well upon closer inspection, I found the point on the vacuum needle in #2 was warn much more than the other 3. I have another that I had replaced because I suspected the needle jet to be damaged. I have replaced the needle with the other that still looks 'new' condition. I will double check the float adjustments again before putting this back in and crossing my fingers. Back to the garage.
 

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Go ahead and ignore my post if you feel that way but that is NOT the problem.
 

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1982 Goldwing 1100 Interstate
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm not ignoring any posts... any and all suggestions are taken. I hadn't seen your addition until after I posted my observation on that one needle. I was just observiing that one needle looked different than the others. My progress since last: I spent probably another hour getting the floats as close as possible. I made some minor adjustments, but I can't imagine that the floats were that far off. The lines on the side of the floats are level with the carb surface. filled with fuel through the inlet (gravity only) and didn't see any leaks through the top (with vacuum pistions out). When working the throttle, I see the fuel squirting into each carb as I should. Put the vacuum pistons back in and saw that two aren't as 'loose' as the other two. I can open the throttle and then push the pistion up from inside. two drop with a 'klunk' and two others move ok, but tend to either drop slowly or stick in the up position. I can get them to loosen some by 1) loosening the plastic air jet cover / piston guide or loosen the vacuum chamber 'cap' - which tells me it's binding somewhere. Are these supposed to slide up and down with no binding whatsoever? Carbs are still on my workbench awaiting my next move... whatever that may be. Maybe polish the vacuum pistons some more? If I put the piston in the vacuum chamber with just the spring and set it upside down there is no binding at all.
 

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Over tightening of the cap screws has probably warped the caps, seen that before.
 

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1982 Goldwing 1100 Interstate
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Over tightening of the cap screws has probably warped the caps, seen that before.
Could this possiby cause RPM racing if they are a bit warped? I did check and they do have spider web fractures where the screw is. I think I can repair the caps with "Q-Bond" - it works great on plastic and I think they will be straight. Worth a shot.. or should I just buy new ones?
 
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