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The Irish Crew
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went to take theright shock out of my 1100 last weekend to replace the rubber boot which is perishing badly. Got the top bolt out but the bottom one has a bad head from a previous life. No socket would fit, I even tried an 11mm one by hammering it onto the chewed up head, no joy there. Then my dad gave me one of those magic sockets that is supposed to grip even the worst worn bolt head. That just fell apart just as I thought it was about to get a start. Guru or not, I'm a bit stumped as to what to do next. Any suggestions?
 

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Maybe some penetrating fluid and then vice grips.



Or use a chisel to create and inendation and then use and impact driver as if the nut were a srew head.



Good luck with it.
 

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The chisel is a good idea!

I usaully get them off with a good pair of "Vise Grips" clamped with max pressure (2 hands) and then tap the vise grip with a hammer!
 

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There's a tool called a "nut splitter" (or nut cutter) which I have used for nuts that I can't get off.
The way it works is: it looks like a "C" clamp with one side with a chisel end and the other side is flat. Place it around the nut and compress it. It will cut the nut in half without hurting the bolt.
 

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Fitzal

The boys have some good suggestions. Not sure if you can get the nut splitter on that or not. Like previously stated, soak it in penetrating oil, clamp on the vicegrips and add "HEAT" from a torch. Constant pressure on it while you are heating it up and it should give. This has never let me down.
 

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The Irish Crew
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I tried the nut splitter just a while ago after tea, borrowed one from one of my bike mates. Unfortunately the bolt seems to be made of putty and the splitter is just tearing the bolt.
I know this bolt acts as a steady pin for the bottom shock bush. I reckon it's well seized in place so I'm at a loss what to do now. Left it soaked in WD40 for ages as well before I tackled it.
 

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Is the bolt actually the lower support for the shock? If so, the threads that secure the bolt to the frame could very well be a part of the frame... In that case, all you can do is torch the threaded end and have a big pair of vise grips locked onto the head of the bolt.. When the threaded end is cherry red, the bolt will back out easily (counter clockwise rotation). It will mean a clean and re-paint of the burned area of the frame, but at least you'll have the bolt out...Heating the bolt from the end where the head is, will not transfer the heat to the threaded end enough to free it up.

One other option you have is to use an air impact wrench and a very tight fitting impact (6-point) socket. Use at least 100psi and let it rip. I've removed tough bolts like what you have in this manner and actually had to hammer the socket onto the head of the bolt. Use only an impact socket for this job.. It's tempered and the walls are very thick.

Good luck and let us all know how this turns out.. :weightlifter:
 

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Alan, If you already tried the other methods then its either heat or welding. I did one a few years ago (on a GL1200) by hammering a big nut onto the head of the bolt and welding the inside of the nut to the stud. A socket soon shifted it after that. The bush in the end of the shock melted from the heat and I had to replace that as well. You will need to cover the surrounding area with something to keep the weld spits away.
The bolt isn't very thick, but where it sits into the bush is probably where it seized. I had to replace the following parts;

52489-399-601 Bush, rubber.
93200-10035-0B Bolt, hex., 10x35.
52486-463-000 Collar.

Copper grease on everything when putting it back together will stop it seizing up for a long time to come. Good luck, you're going to need it.
 

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a tricky problem, as this bolt is like a large pin it's hard to get oil onto the threads i'v had to drill the head off the bolt take off the shock then you can work on getting the rest of the bolt out with a visegrips hope it dose'nt come to this
 

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I agree with drilling the head out enough to allow cutting it off with a cold chisel is probably the best if you don't have an electric welder handy. It should be do-able without damaging anything around it. Once you have the shock pulled off the headless bolt it should be easy to get it loose with a large visegrip, at least you will have more metal to grab hold of. I've used the method of cutting a slot in the head of bolts with a die grinder in the hope of using a screwdriver to get a grip but doubt you can handle this job doing that. Don't think heat is going to help too much since the bolt will expand in the frame and lock tight.
 

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Cutting, Breaking,.......way too drastic. Ftizal, APPLY THE HEAT, use a torch and heat that nut and stud while the vice grips are on and keep the constant pressure on the vice grips til it starts to spin off. Be patient, it will move. Any garage working on rusted, corroded, weathered, nuts or bolts apply the torch. A good example are brake parts, lines, any under carriage stuff.
 

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The Irish Crew
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GOT IT!

I didn't have access to gas bottles for heat, and I was afraid of damaging the chrome with flame as well. So I welded a nut onto the bolt (covered everything up with old damp leather chamois cloths). First attempt saw the weld break when I applied the socket. Second time I put a stronger weld in and that did it. I just finished the job before midnight. Boy do these problems eat up the time! Thanks everyone. :cheeky1:
 

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Sure satisfying when the thing came loose though!:clapper:
 
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