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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know there are a lot of 1100s out there with trashed carbs, the bike isn't worth enuff to justify a carb rebuild, or to buy an expensive Kit, and still not be sure what you will have when you get done......Well after building a single manifold a month ago out of sch 40 PVC and loving the reliability and result, I decided to put my Hardware skills to use and come up with a cheap, easy, alternative build for the Mechanically Challenged. Now if your gonna get into a discussion of air flow, torque, and BLAH-BLAH-BLAH. I don't have a clue. This is a cheap and easy way to make a GL1100 run, and mine runs GREAT.
All fittings are 1" schedule 40, and available at your Local Hardware Store (like I owned for 35 year), or Lowe's for about $12. The only modification to the fittings are the 4 45degree ells, they must be trimmed a little where they attach to the 3 way tees in order to get the correct width to match the 4 stock rubber manifolds(the sch 40 1" fitting will fit perfect inside the rubber manifolds). The Polaris rubber carb mount is available on e-bay for 10 to 20 dollars, depending on which carb you choose you probably will have to make the mounting holes a little wider.. I used a VW pict 34-3 carb, new they are around $ 100, used they run the gamut......But the carb choices are endless.......My bike runs great, no Hydro-lock, no syncin, no ethanol problems,,,,,,,, I like it a Lot.......
List: All 1" sch 40 fittings....2 ea 90 degree St Ells...2 ea 3 way Tees (or side outlet Tee)...4 ea 45 degree Ells, I ea Reg Tee...1 ft sch 40 PVC Pipe....4 new screw clamps for rubber manifold (old clamps will not close tight enough)--or you can use 4 ea 1 x 1 1/4 slip bushings in the rubber boots they fit perfect but you need to ream out pipe stop at end of bushing, then you would use your original clamps...1 ea Polaris rubber carb mount...Ur choice carb. Go to Page four for new version
 

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Seems like a good cost-effective solution, especially if you buy a bike without carbs. I think the only thing I would really be concerned about is carb icing during the winter.
 

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This would also be good if you buy a bike that is not running, just to check the engine before doing anything else.
 

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Thanks for doing this DKL. I started building one using your earlier thread as an example. This one seems much easier. Don't have to deal with Saddle Tees.
 

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How long of a trip have you been on with this set up? Notice anything different between your new and old version?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Rode pretty much all day, short trips no long hauls, 20 miles on the interstate longest trip,no problems...Starts immediately, no bog anywhere, but I haven't let her rip yet, tires are terrible. On initial start in morning, it takes longer to warm up and fall to idle than OEM set, after it warms up it idles great,, but it does start everytime you touch the button. If you go ahead and take off when it cranks in the morning it runs fine and warms up on the road. I have a 82 with stock carbs that runs perfect, the converted 81 feels like it has more power, but with the tires......to early to say.
 

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I think the only thing I would really be concerned about is carb icing during the winter.
My GL is a European (Japanese) one and has no heating tubes in stock. When I ordered the manifold for single carb from California the seller was a little bit surprised when he knew about it. Anyway I already run 7K miles with single carb kit but never met icing problems.



 

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Your carb and polaris mount seem to fit quite well. I'm running a pict 30. The smallest hole to hole polaris mount I could find was 2 1/4". The pict 30 is just above 2" hole to hole on the mount. I'll also need to trim some material off as the polaris mount interferes with the carb operation just a tad.

Just a heads up if anyone is trying to decide what carb to use. I may have picked a less than ideal polaris carb mount though.
 

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It would be great to have a cheap reliable single carb that the average guy could piece together. Have to keep an eye on this one.
 

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See the sticky at the top. Its a marathon read, but $90 for a new carb from landonsstovebolt.com. That is about as cheap as you can get. Sure seems to be quite a few who are happy with it.
 

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See the sticky at the top. Its a marathon read, but $90 for a new carb from landonsstovebolt.com. That is about as cheap as you can get. Sure seems to be quite a few who are happy with it.
Is there a way to mount these using something like the Polaris Carb flange? I've never seen one in person. But heck they are cheap enough to grab an extra for a spare.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update, I did not use the 2 st. ells, I used 2 regular ells and cut half the glue socket off one end to make it shorter. I used plain pvc, not sch 40 to make the short pieces to butt-connect the fittings. (I wanted inside diameter a little larger for air flow). The two short grey pieces coming off the Tee, are cut from a pvc conduit 45 degree sweep ell. I cut about 1 inch above where the bend began and cut about 2" back, it gave the perfect angle so everything matched perfect.
I painted it bumper chrome, installed it, and the pict34-3 carb. Everything was airtight so it was time to crank. Carb adjustment was easy, it cranked like a champ.
It idles smooth at 1200, takes off really easy-or really hard, your choice. It will run smooth at 2500 in first gear, I like to idle around on the back roads like an old fart, But it will take an aggressive throttle, like a monster, in all gears,,No bogging-no flat spots..... Mission accomplished!!!!!!! Better version on Page 4........
 

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Update, I did not use the 2 st. ells, I used 2 regular ells and cut half the glue socket off one end to make it shorter. I used plain pvc, not sch 40 to make the short pieces to connect the fittings. (I wanted inside diameter a little larger for air flow). The two short grey pieces coming off the Tee, are cut from a pvc conduit 45 degree sweep ell. I cut about 1 inch above where the bend began, it gave the perfect angle so everything matched perfect.
I painted it bumper chrome, installed it, and the pict34-3 carb. Everything was airtight so it was time to crank. Carb adjustment was easy, it cranked like a champ.
It idles smooth at 1200, takes off really easy-or really hard, your choice. It will run smooth at 2500 in first gear, I like to idle around on the back roads like an old fart, But it will take an aggressive throttle, like a monster, in all gears,,No bogging-no flat spots..... Mission accomplished!!!!!!!
I almost can't help but wonder if it would work if you avoided the "L" sections and didn't raise the carb up....what's the purpose for the raised section? Could you not keep everything on the same horizontal plane?
 

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DKL mentioned earlier that he wanted the carb up high enough he could work with it easier
I see, I must have missed that part somehow. I bet it would look pretty good Painted and with the carb close to the engine like that. I may try this myself just to experiment with.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
you can keep manifold on same plane but room is very, very, tight, and saddle tees and modifications must be used. My goal was to make something anyone could build, use materials that are readily available, and keep it cheaper than cheap.
As far as the performance, I HAVE FOUND NO DOWNSIDE, It runs strong on full throttle, cruises fine, accelerates like a rocket, and putts around like a lamb.........Go to Page 4.....I figured out a version that is flat......
 

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You should post this on NGW... please! I would love to hear the carb kit sellers attack you. I am definitely going to build one to suit my Walboro flat slide carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Coming along fine...found some chrome fenders off a 1000, and some Harley fish tail cans, waiting on a solo seat off a Kawasaki (should be fun)......Carb and manifold are still doing fine.....put about 200 miles sneaking on the back-roads, no problems at all.......
(can u tell, me like fish-tails)
 

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