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dkl has it.
I've set the idle of my carbs (DCD 28/36, DFT32/M740, Brosol H-30/31) to as close to 1100 RPM as I can.

Our engine's do not flow as much air as any of the cars they were designed to be used on.
We have small engines in this view.
The carbs need a minimum measured amount of airflow through them so their metering circuit's are properly activated.
Otherwise tuning is affected negatively.
1100 RPM is my base number. Each engine is a little different and a small 50 RPM variance I see as a acceptable variable.
The Brosol is more susceptible to metering problems than the Webers I use because the venturi is larger.
The Motorcraft 740 is the least susceptible because of the smaller venturi.
The DCD 28/36 is a toss-up. Most of them available are going to have 26mm venturi's, which are fractionally larger than the Brosol's 25.5mm venturi. The difference favoring the toss-up landing positive for the DCD is that the venturi is removable and smaller ones are available, though hard to come by in 22-24mm sizes (our ideal primary sizes). Much of those chokes are overseas.

I know these three carbs pretty well when it comes to my manifold.
If your manifold flows really well, then my numbers should work and translate-over pretty well.

8-900 RPM is a too low of a number for best idle quality in my experience.
As some have said, "...just because you can idle down to 500 RPM doesn't mean you need to leave it idling there."
 

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The 900rpm would be for test purposes,

to see how it runs at a lower than average RPM to see if any adverse conditions come up, when idling at that speed, that is all nothing say it would or should be left at the lower RPM.
 

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The 900rpm would be for test purposes,

to see how it runs at a lower than average RPM to see if any adverse conditions come up, when idling at that speed, that is all nothing say it would or should be left at the lower RPM.
I understand.
Not saying that you're doing anything necessarily wrong.
I wanted to point out that there are airflow specs by design and that some, maybe more, want that low and choppy "Harley-like" idle that seems to be impressive to some.

An example could be the M740 and the engine it was designed to be used on. I cannot go by the curb idle specification in the manual for that carb because my engine does not move as much air as the much larger Escort engine does. The carb's idle geometry is designed for that engines airflow which is much higher than ours.
I compensate by increasing the curb idle figure in my application so that the carburetor sees airflow through the venturi comparable to its designed spec.

A low idle for testing is very useful in tracing any mixture delivery imbalance between tracts.
 

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I understand.
Not saying that you're doing anything necessarily wrong.
I wanted to point out that there are airflow specs by design and that some, maybe more, want that low and choppy "Harley-like" idle that seems to be impressive to some.

An example could be the M740 and the engine it was designed to be used on. I cannot go by the curb idle specification in the manual for that carb because my engine does not move as much air as the much larger Escort engine does. The carb's idle geometry is designed for that engines airflow which is much higher than ours.
I compensate by increasing the curb idle figure in my application so that the carburetor sees airflow through the venturi comparable to its designed spec.

A low idle for testing is very useful in tracing any mixture delivery imbalance between tracts.

I have to say a side benefit is that choppy, loping idle of the single carb. and with Harley Mufflers is VERY old school, & Hot Rod-esque, as it does have a Great sound, that is hard to believe is coming out of a Goldwing.

Steve, you still running Road King Mufflers on one of your bikes?

I picked up some 110ci CVO Road king mufflers, for cheap, they were take offs and like new (No cat., and no crossover), Looking to install them on a upcoming project.

My bike will idle down to below 900rpm, and still quite well, but yes, for instant, and I mean INSTANT LAUNCH!!! from dead stops, 1000-1100 is a good setting, since the Single carb conversion has much more low end Torque.

Stock carb rack could never do what the single can.
 

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I have to say a side benefit is that choppy, loping idle of the single carb. and with Harley Mufflers is VERY old school, & Hot Rod-esque, as it does have a Great sound, that is hard to believe is coming out of a Goldwing.

Steve, you still running Road King Mufflers on one of your bikes?

I picked up some 110ci CVO Road king mufflers, for cheap, they were take offs and like new (No cat., and no crossover), Looking to install them on a upcoming project.

My bike will idle down to below 900rpm, and still quite well, but yes, for instant, and I mean INSTANT LAUNCH!!! from dead stops, 1000-1100 is a good setting, since the Single carb conversion has much more low end Torque.

Stock carb rack could never do what the single can.
Yes, still using the HDRK mufflers.
They work excellent for me in all ways.
I still need to finish the brackets for the Hondaline suitcase frames. I attach them to the frames, but have not finished my trailer hitch that will be part of the bracketry back there as well.

I will spec the exhaust adapters I had made and will find the part numbers off the mufflers.

It all works together as one.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
I rode it to the Golf Course today....and it went dead half-way there. Would hit a lick and go dead. Sounded like it was starving for gas,but the gauge registered half a tank. I took off carb, no fuel in bowl. I tought for a minute and I could not remember the last time I put gas in it. I tapped on the gauge and it fell like a rock all the way to empty, called a buddy to bring me some gas...............I love old bikes, they keep ya' on your toes.........
 

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You're lucky you didn't shut your petcock off and then run it out 1/2 block after leaving in the dark.
I had 1/2 a Pirate Club encircle me, headlights blaring, to show me what I'd forgotten.
...and I ain't no Pirate.
They were loving that... :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #69
If you look at the picture,, the ells placed in the right location, with the 1/4 inch cut off, in the correct four locations,,,,everything will line up with the manifold rubber boots.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Not a clue....My gauge is squirrely right now...(this is a bike made from left overs from three projects) Most of my riding right now is 20 to 30 mile runs at a time, and I am using throttle every way imaginable to make the carb or engine act up,,,,,,and it just chooses to run perfect. What's a fellow to do? This bike is way to much fun to be a commuter anyway......

I have made another change to my set-up......I used a PVC schedule 80 1" floor flange (glue fitting) to attach carb to top of PVC side outlet cross. I laid the VW carb gasket on the bottom, drilled two holes and cut off the excess with a jig saw. I also cut about a half inch off the glue socket, and cut the same amount off the glue socket on top of the side outlet cross (makes everything sit lower, but put the bolts with a flat washer in the holes to attach the carb before you glue it up)). It is much more substantial and solid than the Polaris rubber carb flange, and just as easy if you take into consideration enlarging the holes and removing rubber from the side of the Polaris mount. I will post pictures when I get caught up with life.
 

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Not a clue....My gauge is squirrely right now...(this is a bike made from left overs from three projects) Most of my riding right now is 20 to 30 mile runs at a time, and I am using throttle every way imaginable to make the carb or engine act up,,,,,,and it just chooses to run perfect. What's a fellow to do? This bike is way to much fun to be a commuter anyway......

I have made another change to my set-up......I used a PVC schedule 80 1" floor flange (glue fitting) to attach carb to top of PVC side outlet cross. I laid the VW carb gasket on the bottom, drilled two holes and cut off the excess with a jig saw. I also cut about a half inch off the glue socket, and cut the same amount off the glue socket on top of the side outlet cross (makes everything sit lower, but put the bolts with a flat washer in the holes to attach the carb before you glue it up)). It is much more substantial and solid than the Polaris rubber carb flange, and just as easy if you take into consideration enlarging the holes and removing rubber from the side of the Polaris mount. I will post pictures when I get caught up with life.
I have been following this thread with interest of doing something similar after pulling my 4 carbs and finding crud in #2&4 carbs. I just thoroughly cleaned all four carbs 2012 and rode all summer with no problems then spring of 2013 bike ran poorly & could tell the exhaust pipes on 2 & 4 weren't hot but 1&3 were. I'm miffed because these carbs were completely dissected and cleaned in a ultrasonic individually then rekitted all (not Randakk's) which is probably where I went wrong. The gas tank was removed, wrapped in blankets and run in the concrete mixer for hours with nuts bolts & cleaner, changed frequently till it was gleaming inside and all new hoses with filters. Now I just opened up #4 and see crap in it! I'm disgusted, I was trying not to use creme in the tank as I've read that too can become a problem with flaking off in time. I popped the ring off the gas tank and looked inside and to my surprise it doesn't look all bad. This bike has not been run without stabil in the fuel since the carb jobs.

Anyway, enough of my grief! Congrats to you!! I applaud your ingenuity with the PVC. Bottom line is: IT WORKS!!!
I'm thinking of trying copper with soldered joints. Someone else mentioned that at some point in this thread. I haven't looked into what changes copper might take when introduced with gas air mix for a period of time. Have you considered trying the copper? It appears you continue to perfect the pvc setup. Thanks again for taking the time to share your experience. I just want a bike that runs without tinkering with it all the time.
 

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Pardon my input...
FWIW...
Despite his claims of 6+ years in offering his conversion as presented, Juan Fernandez was selling his conversion based on copper water-pipe fittings only a few short years ago.
I had urged him to use a better method at the time and suggested, in my usual fashion, that he strongly consider a better way.

...has nothing to do at all with use of the material.
Obviously, copper fittings will work.
And work better than some other materials.

Copper, and today's available fuel for use, need to have some serious thought put towards possible contamination of the delivery tracts.


...food for thought.
In this singular facet of "what material is best", PVC is a better choice as it is not a reactive metal.

I've a full set of pictures of his copper manifold if needed for referencing.
 

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Pardon my input...
FWIW...
Despite his claims of 6+ years in offering his conversion as presented, Juan Fernandez was selling his conversion based on copper water-pipe fittings only a few short years ago.
I had urged him to use a better method at the time and suggested, in my usual fashion, that he strongly consider a better way.

...has nothing to do at all with use of the material.
Obviously, copper fittings will work.
And work better than some other materials.

Copper, and today's available fuel for use, need to have some serious thought put towards possible contamination of the delivery tracts.


...food for thought.
In this singular facet of "what material is best", PVC is a better choice as it is not a reactive metal.

I've a full set of pictures of his copper manifold if needed for referencing.
Sure Captain,

I'd like to see those pics.
 

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Sure Captain,

I'd like to see those pics.
Ok.
I'll start a thread later this evening with them so not to divert the topic of this one.
Cool?
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I could do it copper if I wanted to (I am a Hardware Guy), and it might be better, but not easier for the average owner,,,and that is what I am trying to accomplish.... If I was doin' it in copper I would make the runners and fittings the copper size that is the same inside diameter as 1" schedule 40 inside diameter, copy my pattern as close as possible, and it should work as well as my current set-up. (might be more likely to ice, I don't know) My PVC set-up has not had that problem.
 

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I had similar issues and thought my tank was good. After cleaning idle jets out 14 times, I pulled the sending unit out and looked in with a mirror and light to see flaking crud on the top couple inches of the tank. Bottom looked great. I speculate that this bike sat a long time 3/4 full of fuel. If in a spot where hot cold can cycle enough, condensation and oxygen do their thing and corrupt. This might be worth looking into as you might end up with the same issue with a single carb. I am happy with mine now but do hope to try a single carb conversion sometime in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
I have been using my pvc set-up since the first of the year, I have changed the manifold set-up several times, and it is easy to build. I am still using the same VW 34-3 carb and have had no issues. I no longer shut-off my fuel valve at every stop. I no longer worry about ethanol. I no longer worry about keeping four carbs surgically clean. Synckronization is hard to spell-and hard to do.... Life is good,,, and so is a single carb set-up.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
I routed the hose back to original height, and bought a chrome filter at O'Rielly's and stuck it in the end, right now it is zip tied in place,,,,I haven't mounted it permanent, cause I am still tinkerin' with bike.

I am working on mounting a single piece 76 GL1000 tank lid on my 1100 faux tank enclosure, so I can mount a removable storage box above carb, with easy access.
 

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