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I routed the hose back to original height, and bought a chrome filter at O'Rielly's and stuck it in the end, right now it is zip tied in place,,,,I haven't mounted it permanent, cause I am still tinkerin' with bike.

I am working on mounting a single piece 76 GL1000 tank lid on my 1100 faux tank enclosure, so I can mount a removable storage box above carb, with easy access.
What about the second hose that routes the water that condenses from the crankcase breather hose?
 

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Not a clue....My gauge is squirrely right now...(this is a bike made from left overs from three projects) Most of my riding right now is 20 to 30 mile runs at a time, and I am using throttle every way imaginable to make the carb or engine act up,,,,,,and it just chooses to run perfect. What's a fellow to do? This bike is way to much fun to be a commuter anyway......

I have made another change to my set-up......I used a PVC schedule 80 1" floor flange (glue fitting) to attach carb to top of PVC side outlet cross. I laid the VW carb gasket on the bottom, drilled two holes and cut off the excess with a jig saw. I also cut about a half inch off the glue socket, and cut the same amount off the glue socket on top of the side outlet cross (makes everything sit lower, but put the bolts with a flat washer in the holes to attach the carb before you glue it up)). It is much more substantial and solid than the Polaris rubber carb flange, and just as easy if you take into consideration enlarging the holes and removing rubber from the side of the Polaris mount. I will post pictures when I get caught up with life.
Two questions for you.

The first... Do you have a picture of what you described above? I'm having a hard time visualizing what you are doing. My flange is very thin due to how much I had to take out for the carb arm to not hit the gasket.

Second. How are you attaching the throttle cable. Don't they need a bracket to attach to?

I started my wing up today with a pict 30 and your rev 2 manifold. I don't have my gas tank on so it was a very short test. Seemed to run great. I'll get the tank on and do some more testing. Thanks so much for this idea!
 

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Discussion Starter #85
I did away with Polaris carb mount. I use sch80 pvc floor flange. It stops the wiggle that I think would eventually lead to vacuum leak.
Cut the red lines and everything lines up.​
The only items for manifold not pictured are two 1" sch 40 couplings, these should be cut in half and glued to the end of the runners. They will fit inside rubber manifold boot almost perfect, but I use hose clamps instead of factory clamp to get it absolutely tight.....​
HAPPY RIDE'N
 

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I did away with Polaris carb mount. I use sch80 pvc floor flange. It stops the wiggle that I think would eventually lead to vacuum leak. Cut the red lines and everything lines up.

Great pictures thanks!

I take it you made your own bracket for the throttle cable. Looks nice.

Sorry for all the questions. I'm not the most mechanically inclined... :?
 

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Discussion Starter #87
bracket is a Tee mending plate, and a 1/4 eye/bolt , available at any Mom & Pop Hardware store. Think outside the box, it is an old junky motorcycle, don't be askeerd to try stuff,,,,,,as long as it won't Kill you.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
My arms are tired from sand'n,,,,but tank cover is headed in right direction, I will put clear on when I get done tinker'n......Last picture shows new plan. Going to flush mount temp gauge, & fuel gauge in Lid. Ignition will stay in same location, but I will bring speed-o and tach as close to bars as possible. This should let me mount windshield closer to forks and allow me to keep same angle on shield as the forks.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Anybody out there have any experience with gauge and dash relocation. Some pictures for some ideas would be wonnerrffuull.
 

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Well, I waited for some Ideas, and nobody stepped up, so I went Maverick. I used a fence post for dash, and pilot lights for the indicators. Brought the gauges in about a 1"....exactly what I wanted. Now to put the fuel and temp gauge on tank lid.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
First picture is of the Left-Overs I started with in January. I kept myself entertained for 6 months, and as Lagnaippe, I now have a Naked Friend,,,, and she​
Knows how to Flaunt Her Stuff.
With new tires and the small shield off a old KZ750, this baby rides as smooth as a Wing, but with the Single Carb, she responds like a Sports Car... I still need to put on Clear, and the gauges are not lined up exactly straight, but I wanted to RIDE... I think this project is almost over.....
If someone would explain how to post a video, I would really like to post a Cold start, Idle, and Hammer'n down the Road, to show the Doubters that a Simple PVC Manifold, and a outta the box Pict34-3 VW will Idle, Skat, Idle, Skat, Idle, and be Reliable.
 

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Nice.
You run a android phone?
...take your video ...and post it YouTube.
There should be a pre-installed app for it.
 

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With the pipe mock up cant you get a welder friend to weld you some pipe.Im an electrician on the pvc Im sure some of the bends could be done with a pvc heat blanket or one of those heater machines
 

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Im having the problems on the 4 carb problems.It cranked but had a miss.The exhaust is rotten gone get some pipe welded to the headers for the 20.00 harley mufflers I got off ebay.The baffles are good on the old pipes.Rear master cylinder after unstopping the right front hose bled out today.I dont like the air I hear coming out of the master cylinder(rear).But it has a brake pedal now.Alot of cleaning the caliper and pistons flushing old fluid.I wish someone would make a after market rear master for the 83 wing.
 

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What are these intakes going for? I made one for my wing, and used a Rochester WO single barrel carb. She runs flawless. No hard hot or cold starting. I never use the choke any longer. Pulls very hard through the entire RPM range. My favorite part, no more lugging :) My grandpa wants me to start making these intakes and selling them underf the Baker Built Products name, but I'm just not sure if theres a market for an intake for a 30+ year old bike
 

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Discussion Starter #96
My Super Secret PVC Manifold cost about $30 in parts, and is available at the time you choose to build it. I do what I do for fun, not $$. Instructions are in this thread.

I had two jeeps back in the day with the flat head four. That engine is very similar in size to the boxer on the 1100. The old jeep set-up had fair power and was extremely reliable....You need to start a thread and post some pictures. There is a small market out there for a manifold but it sure should be less than $100, if you use the original intake elbows.

P.S. I got insurance today, got plates, She's Legal Now, no more slippin' round the back-roads.
 

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That was my intentions from the start, "fun". I did it to see if I could, and it worked. Grandpa thinks I should sell them. I think I should just enjoy my Goldwing lol
 

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Im having the problems on the 4 carb problems.It cranked but had a miss.The exhaust is rotten gone get some pipe welded to the headers for the 20.00 harley mufflers I got off ebay.The baffles are good on the old pipes.Rear master cylinder after unstopping the right front hose bled out today.I dont like the air I hear coming out of the master cylinder(rear).But it has a brake pedal now.Alot of cleaning the caliper and pistons flushing old fluid.I wish someone would make a after market rear master for the 83 wing.
some folks are running 1800 masters on the nekkid site
 

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another variant and question about heating

Greetings! This thread was instrumental in helping me take the plunge and convert my 80 gl1100 to a single carb I bought a new VW pict 34 carb and fabricated an intake from 3 1 1/4 T's. I cut and glued the saddle from one of them onto the other two T's using JB weld and pvc glue. I then used a steel floor flange and and 1: close npt fitting to make a mounting flange for the carb. With a little sawsall action and sanding it worked out great. Flexible PVC and a throttle stop later and the bike started on the first try.

I want to heat the steel flange now and am wondering if anyone has any ideas where to pull a line off the coolant system. My thought is to use 1/4 or 3/8 copper soft tubing and wrap it around the flange and then plumb in a rubber line from the main hose on the water pump returning it to the hose off the thermostat. Does anyone know where to pick up fitting for this or where else you can pull a coolant line off a GL1100?

I have posted pics of my build for anyone who could benefit from them. Thanks again for all the technical encouragement. THis has been a fun rewarding project.
 

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