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... (composite construction).
Composites are the way of the future (...just as metal alloy's have been).
 

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Discussion Starter #103
Johnnamon, you bring tears to the eyes of a ex-Hardware Store owner. I enjoy doin' it different with cheap Stuff, and evidently so do you......GOOD JOB.....My original was 1 1/4 but when I changed to 1" it is off the chart. How does your version respond to throttle, Idle, and through all RPMs under load. With the PVC set up I Have had no Icing problem, and the 34-3 is not so prone to icing I have been told...Heat may not be necessary......but it might make it run better....only time will tell.
 

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the mod has performed reasonably well. it idles well. has great low rpm torque which i enjoy. I am a cruiser not a racer so good low speed response is more important than high end horsepower. the motor wraps out just fine pulling hard through the power band to within 1k of redline. i dont beat on the old girl any harder than that. I am still tweaking the idle mix a little. i also suspect a cracked coil due to intermittent bumbling. I have ordered a Neon coil i will attempt to adapt. more mods. fun fun.

i do notice condensation on the outside of the carb and my metal plate flange. this concerns me and is the reason for considering heat. in looking at the two rubber hoses in the coolant system there is hardly room on the lower to fit a t with a barb. i am going to attempt the mod next week anyway if i dont hear a better idea. I hope to do that at the same time as the coil.

i have noticed that the auto choke does not seem to be opening all the way. i am thinking of converting it to a manual one by attaching the choke cable to it to force it open and closed. i have power and ground to the carb but it takes a half hour of riding before it opens up and even then is not in the full open position. this is causing bad gas mileage.

i did order 3of the 5 way pieces for further mods in case this one didnt work out. was there a reason you didn't just run flex straight from he 5way to the intakes? I am also curious as to why 1 inch would work better. my flange is a 1inch hole. It mated up better, so the throat i am using is 1inch size but the runners are all 1 1/4.
 

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the mod has performed reasonably well. it idles well. has great low rpm torque which i enjoy. I am a cruiser not a racer so good low speed response is more important than high end horsepower. the motor wraps out just fine pulling hard through the power band to within 1k of redline. i dont beat on the old girl any harder than that. I am still tweaking the idle mix a little. i also suspect a cracked coil due to intermittent bumbling. I have ordered a Neon coil i will attempt to adapt. more mods. fun fun.

i do notice condensation on the outside of the carb and my metal plate flange. this concerns me and is the reason for considering heat. in looking at the two rubber hoses in the coolant system there is hardly room on the lower to fit a t with a barb. i am going to attempt the mod next week anyway if i dont hear a better idea. I hope to do that at the same time as the coil.

i have noticed that the auto choke does not seem to be opening all the way. i am thinking of converting it to a manual one by attaching the choke cable to it to force it open and closed. i have power and ground to the carb but it takes a half hour of riding before it opens up and even then is not in the full open position. this is causing bad gas mileage.

i did order 3of the 5 way pieces for further mods in case this one didnt work out. was there a reason you didn't just run flex straight from he 5way to the intakes? I am also curious as to why 1 inch would work better. my flange is a 1inch hole. It mated up better, so the throat i am using is 1inch size but the runners are all 1 1/4.

Where is your crankcase breather hose attached? Could that be the cause of the condensation? When I blew a fuse I lost my electric choke resulting in a rich fuel mixture and lots of water vapor coming from the breather hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #106
I used 1" cause common sense led me to believe a smaller size would increase the suction pressure in the runners, which would give quicker throttle response,,,,,,,and it was smaller and gave me MORE ROOM. I am not a carb GURU........C'PN Midnite will be along and answer Tech Questions he is the man, I defer to the experts........My advice is don't over think it, worry about the How, not the Why.
My choke fully opens up in less than 5 minutes. Go on a dune buggy site and ask for a fix....They will know about the 34-3
 

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The 1" runner will have a higher velocity air flow and more closely matches the OEM runner ID.

Should provide better throttle response and better mixture control.

But, I also use the KISS principle. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 

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Where is your crankcase breather hose attached? Could that be the cause of the condensation? When I blew a fuse I lost my electric choke resulting in a rich fuel mixture and lots of water vapor coming from the breather hose.
The hose is on its own air filter separated from the fuel intake system. another thought I had was that the choke not opening is causing excess cooling due to continual vacuum above the throttle butterfly. I am going to do a little research on the dune buggy site as suggested and see what I can find.
 

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problem solved running great

I went back to the simple to see if I could resolve the issue without further modification. It turns out that the aux relay I was using had a weak fuse that was partially burned out. It would turn out LED's that I used to test it but it was not actuating either the fuel stop or the automatic choke. Hence it was not running right. I popped a new fuse in and she ran well. A couple of adjustments of the volume screw and the bypass screw and the old girl was purring like a lion.

I say a lion because when I took her out she ran with all the gusto of the original 4 on hard acceleration but without the bumbling at low power. I love it when simple fixes present themselves. It just goes to show you need to be thorough in diagnosis.

I had actually checked the fuse visually and confirmed that the filament was intact. I had also checked to see that it would lite up an led all was fine. When I pulled the fuse out, however, I found that the lower half of the terminal end had melted and bulged making it worthless for any kind of amperage draw. Weird huh. Well live and learn I guess.

The condensation was no longer a problem once the choke was opening properly so until I run into a problem or find a way to easily tap into the coolant lines I am putting the heating project on hold so I can just enjoy Riding for a while!

I am posting a couple of last pics of my mod. since so many have been gracious enough to comment on it. THe first pic is of the air cleaner I attached to the pict 34 carb. I discovered that a 2" piece of PVC fit it like a glove so I cut a piece of tin inserted the 2 in pvc using V cuts to create a hole big enough. THen I used sheet metal screws to secure the pvc to the v cuts and caulked around the pvc with liquid gasket. THen I attached the plate I just made using more liquid gasket and sheet metal screws to the stock air cleaner. One little plug where the original bolt hole was and I had a cheap adaptation of stock equipment to my mod.

I then painted the pvc gold to match the decor and installed it all. Thanks again for all the help. It has been a fun build.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Way to hang in there,,,,,,,Kind'a scarey that it is so e-z,,,and it runs so well... As I said before--Gas, Fire, Compression, is all that is needed,,,,it ain't Rocket Science.......Good Job
 

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i have been following you since the start this is cuyler1 on ngw . i noticed you changed to swimming pool vac hose since last when you had or spoke of pvc runners. mine is still doing well and somebody was talking about selling them, go for it. the thermo hot pipe i just encountered. youtube gl1500 tech training video has it. there it explains about after water hits 170 deg. it shuts off water flow. just done a head gasket job on a bud of mines gl1500 and intake has pin hole leak in it and i bypassed it. we're in fl. , don't need anymore heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #117
Well, that was an e-z fix........Set your Idle to 1050

and to Cuyler: that is Sch40 Flex PVC Pipe on the runners, not swimming pool hose......they might use it for swimming pool hose.....but here it is a intake manifold.
 

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Just a little update and further information for someone doing their own build. My bike started bogging down on takeoff a bit and I suspected an air leak in the intake. When I checked the boots I found that the flex pvc had compressed a little bit making it a looser fit that I liked. Hence I took some stiff 1" pvc and inserted it into the 1 1/4 flex line that I had run to the intake boots. THis firmed up the boot connection and had the added benefit of reducing the air volume to increase response. Fortunately one inch slides tightly into 1 1/4 inch pvc.

when you use 1 inch flex pipe you have to sleeve out to 1 1/4 inch with standard pvc so you dont have the compression problem I experienced with the flex pvc. I will see how this mod affects performance over the next few days and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
sounds like a fix, but If I understand, you cut a piece of 1" and stuck it in the 1 1/4. I would be concerned with gas pooling in the manifold where the
1 1/4 turns to 1".
 

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Discussion Starter #120
Windshield came in today, now I can do away with the little Spitfire,,,it's off a Harley Vibrator.....gonna rig it & ride it tomorrow.....I almost have a matched set of Naked Wings....one with stock carbs for my Honey, and one with a conversion for Me. Fourth of July Week-end we are goin' somewhere.
 
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