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Discussion Starter #141
Hard to beat a well tuned good rack of stock carbs, my Yellow 82 still is stock, and they run perfect, but it took some work. My Single carb set-up on my Black 81 is a good option if your stock carbs are junk, wore out, or you just don't have the expertise or $$$ to buy a $250 kit to rebuild them, just to find out if they work.
It is kinda like a nose job,,,,,,,,it is your decision, not mine.​
 

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Fair enough. I purchased this 'Wing knowing it would be a project (and budgeting accordingly), so a $250 carb kit isn't out of the question by any means.
 

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if you can do the work and figure it out yourself, single carb conversion is the way to go first,

if you need to ask about scc, you are prob not ready to go there yet
 

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PVC Attempt

After reading several hundreds of forum pages, I'm finally taking the plunge. I got an old 83 GL1100 about a month ago, turns over, fires up with starting fluid, carbs are completely gummed up after sitting for at least 6 years out in the weather.
I'm going with the 32DFT Westgl has advocated; I don't want to spend too much time tweaking to get the old girl on the road. (Or at least running!)
This being a tight time of the year (3 kid's birthdays in row, school supplies & clothes, Christmas right around the corner), I'm trying the PVC intake to at least prove the function to myself.
I'm bumping up the 5-way center cross to 1-1/4", with 1-1/2"x1" reducing coupling to slip over the outsides of the fitting. A little sanding is necessary, I'm doing a little bit at a time and trying not to rush. I shooting for a rigid and strong assembly, while minimizing abrupt, sharp edges and restrictions like you might see by pushing bushing into the center cross. I'm hoping this will give me just a little bit of volume for the manifold.
The carb and adapter to single bbl from [email protected] came in last night. I had order two CPVC flanges, to see which would match up to the flange the best.
Looks like the 1-1/2" matches almost perfectly. What I like is this will keep the assembly as compact as I can make, plus I won't have any close lengths of pipe used to connect the fittings together.
 

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Discussion Starter #145
Sounds like a plan. I would advise putting a shim under manifold to support the weight of the larger carb....and make sure NO LEAKS.
 

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I'm planning on it. I liked the idea I ready a few pages back on this thread about using a 4" cross-section, cut with scallops for the engine coolant lines on the bottom, and cut-outs for the intake lines in the top. It seems to me that that's the way to go to reduce long-term stress from weakening the pipes. As far as the material used, does anyone know the temperature range I should be prepared for on the top of the engine and coolant lines?
I used to install fiberglass swimming pools and spas, did all the pipe work, had to pressure test EVERYTHING for the building inspectors. Like I've read here before, the key to solid pipe joints is preparation. I lightly sand all mating surfaces, and bevel the male side of each joint. This keeps the sharp edge of the cut pipe from pushing much of the pvc cement off the inside of the coupling. That was especially important whenever I used flex-pvc. It took a little longer, maybe an extra 20 second on each flex pvc end with a utility knife, but I never had a joint pull out under pressure either. When these things were going to be under ground and concrete decking, you take the extra time to do it right.
 

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might consider starting your own separate thread and linking it to the start here,

it will make for a way easier and focused read for others down the road who will be reading it for the first time,

left here, it will likely get all messed up with chit chat all over the place that will have nothing to do with what you are doing,

up to you tho

After reading several hundreds of forum pages, I'm finally taking the plunge. I got an old 83 GL1100 about a month ago, turns over, fires up with starting fluid, carbs are completely gummed up after sitting for at least 6 years out in the weather.
I'm going with the 32DFT Westgl has advocated; I don't want to spend too much time tweaking to get the old girl on the road. (Or at least running!)
This being a tight time of the year (3 kid's birthdays in row, school supplies & clothes, Christmas right around the corner), I'm trying the PVC intake to at least prove the function to myself.
I'm bumping up the 5-way center cross to 1-1/4", with 1-1/2"x1" reducing coupling to slip over the outsides of the fitting. A little sanding is necessary, I'm doing a little bit at a time and trying not to rush. I shooting for a rigid and strong assembly, while minimizing abrupt, sharp edges and restrictions like you might see by pushing bushing into the center cross. I'm hoping this will give me just a little bit of volume for the manifold.
The carb and adapter to single bbl from [email protected] came in last night. I had order two CPVC flanges, to see which would match up to the flange the best.
Looks like the 1-1/2" matches almost perfectly. What I like is this will keep the assembly as compact as I can make, plus I won't have any close lengths of pipe used to connect the fittings together.
 

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Nice!

DKL, I have been following your thread and it fascinates me that you made PVC manifolds that work! I had followed WestGLs thread and I'm convinced when I do mine, I will be using the Weber 32dft. But, as I just got my boat anchor carb rack finally sealed, sync'd, and pilots adjusted, mine purrs now and has immediate response up and down the rpm curve. So, I'm just gonna ride it until the carbs get gunked up again, then do my single carb conversion. My stator is hanging in there for now, but I'm sure I'll be doing my own poboy conversion within the next several months. Hell, I might just do both back to back. Thank you and everyone else on here for giving the details on old wing maintenance! You knowledge is gold here!:claps:

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #149
This is the fitting list and a Pictorial on my PVC Manifold for the GL1100 with a VW34-3 carb. It runs great and I have put 3,000 miles on this set-up. Cheap and easy to build set-up to get a GL1100 with trashed carbs back on the road.​
video of running manifold--http://youtu.be/aKGN6cPPxgo

4 -pieces 1" Flex PVC. regular flex.....found on Flex PVC website.
2 -regular 1" PVC sch 40 45 ELLs
2 -short 1" PVC sch 40 45 ELLs
4 -PVC 1 1/4 x 1" sch 40 PVC Bushings Glue Fittings
1 -PVC Sch 80 1" Floor Flange Glue Fitting
1 -PVC 1" 5 Way Cross
1 -PVC 1" short piece of PVC pipe to cut short pieces to join fittings together.
1 -Small Piece 1x4 Lumber to place under cross, it rests on coolant tubes and supports weight of carb. I glue rubber on top of board.​


The fittings must be cut on the marks, but different brands are different length,,measure twice-cut once.​
 

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Several. Google 32 DFT. There is a thread here if you care to read through the 1200 plus posts. Most of the other forums that focus on 4 cylinder wings also have threads on the subject. Some people will say that it is the only carb that will work and it has to be done a certain way or your single carb conversion will not work... I say read what you see and on all the forums and you will see what the truth really is.
 

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Discussion Starter #154
a little change to design

I have been running the VW 34-3 carb over a year on my PVC set-up, it is reliable, powerful, cheap, and simple. It is on the Black 81 1100, and I also pull a trailer. The Yellow 82 in picture has factory carbs, my better half rides it on our trips. This gives a comparison from single to factory. We are heading to Talimena Trail for a 5 day camping trip week of Oct 12.(Ark, La, Okla, & Texas)


p.s. pictures are of PVC manifold I am building for the 82 for when the factory rack gives up the Ghost. It is same design I have used for over a year, except the 45s are twisted just a little less than 1/4 inch, this gives the correct angle to fit into the factory manifold Ells, and the Flex PVC is no longer needed....Easier and Cheaper........ I also use 1 x 1 1/4 PVC slip by slip bushings to fit on end of 1" runners to slip into existing rubber manifold ells. They fit tighter than the 1" couplings and are stronger.
 

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Discussion Starter #157
Maybe it would be a great carb, but the purpose of this thread was to keep it simple, and cheap. Purchasing a $250 CARB and then modifying it to be acceptable was not directed to the audience I was speaking. This build is for people on a budget, and like me, do not know a Jet from a paper airplane.
 

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Maybe it would be a great carb, but the purpose of this thread was to keep it simple, and cheap. Purchasing a $250 CARB and then modifying it to be acceptable was not directed to the audience I was speaking. This build is for people on a budget, and like me, do not know a Jet from a paper airplane.
That's actually a $40 EBAY carb (Weber 32/36 DFV). One of the best and most flexible carbs ever made. It can easily support the needs of vehicles from 40hp to 300+

I have 2 on the bench at the moment. Contrary to what you may hear, I actually like tinkering with single carb conversions.

Armed with the rest of the hardware shown above in my photo, you could build a GoldWing with world beater performance. As they say - "some assembly required!" :)
 

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Hi Randall,

looks like some "assembly" is still needed in the photo above... no brakes or throttle on those handlebars yet. :)
 

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Hi Randall,

looks like some "assembly" is still needed in the photo above... no brakes or throttle on those handlebars yet. :)
Correct. :)

That's a "mockup" assembly to check some frame modification details + the new front end (modified CB900F).

The bike is apart again while we work through the rear suspension mods and other details before the frame goes out for finishing.
 
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