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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My bike has started to "stick" in gear, I'll be in 3rd/4th and will not be able to change up/down. Happening in all gears (but mostly the higher gears ie 3/4). So I had the mechanic take a look, I thought the clutch, wasn't disengaging or needed fettling. He says the clutch is fine and it's likely to be some spring or similar in the release of gears.

Anyone got an idea on this? I imagine mechanic would have the engine out to even be able to check/assess, and sure at that stage it's into big money?

Is there a simple thing to check (outside of clutch adjustment)?
Is it a big job to assess engine gear system?
Engine out?

Anything you folks can offer that I could pass on to the spanner wielder, I'd be grateful.

;)
 

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Junior Grue
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When it won't shift does the shift lever move freely or not move?

The shift mechanism is inside the front transmission cover and can be accessed without removing the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The footpedal becomes solid, not moving up or down.
I'll have to get the manual out and have a look at that....ideal if its not a full engine out job!
 

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You will need to remove the front cover and check the shift mechanism. The problem could be farther in but that is the place to start. You have to drain the oil and coolant and there is a gasket and several o-rings that will need replacing, also a good time to check the water pump.
 

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Do you have a hydraulic clutch?
If so, check you fluid level. You may have to bleed it.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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Do you have aftermarket floorboards with a Heel/toe shifter?
If you have the stock shifter, is it installed correctly?

Both of those conditions have been seen on this forum, when shifting problems occur. GW trannies are pretty tough.
 

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Do you have a hydraulic clutch?
If so, check you fluid level. You may have to bleed it.
Does your 1100 have a hydraulic clutch?
 

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Junior Grue
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The footpedal becomes solid, not moving up or down.
That would seem to point to your suspicion of a dragging clutch loading the gears and making shifting difficult.

Of course it could be something else but I see nothing in the linkage under the front cover that would cause that.
 

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That would seem to point to your suspicion of a dragging clutch loading the gears and making shifting difficult.

Of course it could be something else but I see nothing in the linkage under the front cover that would cause that.

Shifting a motorcycle without using the clutch is easily done, some riders might not even notice if it quit releasing until they stopped. If the clutch didn't work he would have trouble getting it in gear when not moving and it would be obviously the problem.
 

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Junior Grue
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Shifting a motorcycle without using the clutch is easily done, some riders might not even notice if it quit releasing until they stopped. If the clutch didn't work he would have trouble getting it in gear when not moving and it would be obviously the problem.
I had no idea that you know gts1999 and his skill level.

My mistake!
 

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Still Learning
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My bike has started to "stick" in gear, I'll be in 3rd/4th and will not be able to change up/down. Happening in all gears (but mostly the higher gears ie 3/4). So I had the mechanic take a look, I thought the clutch, wasn't disengaging or needed fettling. He says the clutch is fine and it's likely to be some spring or similar in the release of gears.

Anyone got an idea on this? I imagine mechanic would have the engine out to even be able to check/assess, and sure at that stage it's into big money?

Is there a simple thing to check (outside of clutch adjustment)?
Is it a big job to assess engine gear system?
Engine out?

Anything you folks can offer that I could pass on to the spanner wielder, I'd be grateful.

;)

On restoration of my 83 Aspencade that sat for 13 years, the maiden run it got stuck in 4th at a light, uphill with cars behind me. The advice I got here was the clutch plates were sticking and to do a treatment of marvel mystery oil, drain out 1 qt oil and replace with MMO, ride @200 miles, one ride, low rpms (2500-3000), lots of shifting up and down through the lower gears first then progress upward 1 gear then back down to first a few times until that gear is smooth shifting. Then go home and change the oil and filter while its still hot to remove all the gunk that the MMO loosens up. Use Rotella or Delo 15w40 oil for smooth shifts.
It takes time to loosen it up again from a long sleep, if that is your bikes case.
This will also clean out the gunk in the cases and pickup screens for the oil pumps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the input folks.
It certainly feels (to my amateur eyes) like it's similar to newday777 problem.
The bike got a run out once a year with the PO, and lord knows what it was doing before that.

So I think the 1quart MMO (or Seafoam?) and a 200km run at low RPM, quick engine oil dump on return, would be the 1st and simplest option.

Then, it's the front cover off and check out primary gear lever linkages.

Then, if nothing obvious, whack it all back together and hope the MMO worked.
Afterthat I'm at the mercy of the mechanics invoice (!).

Thanks again-
gts1999
 

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Still Learning
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If you have to pay a mechanic to split the cases to get to the transmission, it will be cheaper to find a used motor that runs good for $300-$600 than the $2,500-$3,500 to r&r the transmission.
 

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1985 GL1200 A
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Your clutch should be mechanical/cable not hydraulic. At least my 1100 is.

First thing I'd do is assess the clutch friction point and adjust if it's too low (doesn't grab until lever is almost all the way released.) Second is to put 2-3oz. of Seafoam in the crankcase and go for a 75-100 mile ride to clean sludge and "clutch boogers" out, drain oil while hot, bumping the starter a couple of times while its draining, replace filter and oil with fresh (I like Amsoil 10W-40) and THEN assess its performance.

Good luck!
 

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Bob Cassel
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First: Add Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil to your existing oil. Then drive it for a hundred miles using all gears, engine speeds, etc. Then, change your oil.

Second: What type/brand/weight of oil are you using? These bikes are finiky about their oil and not consistent at that. I've had Delo 400 and it worked fine for one change, then wouldn't shift for a lick the next. Rotella T is what works consistently for me. Some like Mobile 1 or a full synthetic, but I'm too cheap for that and I change the oil every 5000 miles and that's about every 4 months. You may need to experiment to find out what your bike "likes".
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok, no sefoam in the emerald isle, but I got this stuff from the local motor factor:

http://bardahl.com/products/oil-additives/eng-tune-up-flush

Awaiting oil filter from wemoto, and then I'll give it a whirl.

Oil recommendations seem to vary, no idea what was put in it at last service (< 300 miles ago!), but based on what you guys are saying this could be responsible for the problems I'm having now.

So, in my situation (a sticky gear lever down to possible gunked up clutch plates), after an engine flush and filter change, what oil to use on a 35000 mile GL1100?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So, you never answered, my questions.
Did you just miss the post or...?
Sorry Dennis, missed your query there.
No boards or anything non-standard.
Is the stock shifter installed correctly? I believe so, looks and feels fine, and changes gears great when I'm not "stuck" if you know what I mean.
 
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