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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks. I just joined the forum from Lexington, Ky. I thought I would start right off with a question that has sort of been answered for me.. but not completely. I have read that others with 1100's have a stiff pull on the clutch handle, but mine is beyond that. I have a sore forearm from riding around town 3 days a week. I have a new cable on it, and I rerouted it several ways, but it is still a work out. Could it be a problem with the clutch itself, or is it just a "live with it" thing. Is there a clutch spring that could be replaced? ??
 

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Should be smooth as butter.
How do you have it routed? And why several ways?
Route it like the factory routed it, ...that's the only way to go.
I did the hydraulic conversion on my 1000 but went back to the cable because I can feel the clutch. No real difference in pull effort between the two.
 

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It aint rocket science
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OEM or aftermarket cable. A couple inches too long or short could affect the routing bends and might cause problems.
 

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I suppose there could be a problem in the machanism under the clutch cover that spreads the plates. I'm not that familiar with it so maybe a Guru that has knowledge of it will chime in. If you have a good set of 1/4" drive sockets and extensions you can pull the cover and check it out. You'll have to buy our make a spanner to remove one of the parts in there.

The other thing that comes to mind is aftermarket clutch springs. If the PO had wanted the clutch to grab better they might have got a set that are stronger than OEM.

Hope this helps.
 

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1980 GL1100 Interstate - hard pull clutch !

Living with it here too...
OEM cable was difficult to pull...replacement cable is difficult to pull too...
Wish it was easier..but after a lot of working on it ..it is what it is....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I routed it different ways to see if it made the pull any easier. What is the factory way?
I WAS wondering if it were possible to install a hydraulic conversion. Where did you get it?
 

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Use the link below as a reference only. Unless someone has more information on doing the conversion on a 1100, then that is all it is good for right now:
http://myweb.midco.net/jessco/JManuals/Hydrclutch.pdf

The pics below are for a '78 GL1000 (from the Honda DIY Guide for that bike). The 1100 should be the same.
 

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Village Whack Job...
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From first hand experience I've learned a lot about the 1100 clutch...the hard way. Chances are that if your clutch pull is that hard someone over tightened the six spring bolts in the clutch basket. Either in and effort to stop a worn clutch from slipping, or out of ignorance.

Either way I would would strongly recommend replacing the friction discs, springs and the six bolts. I would bet that you'll find the bolts stretched when you pull them out.

The 1100 does have a fairly stiff pull in comparison to some other makes and models. However it shouldn't be so stiff as to cause discomfort.
 

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Incidentally my 1200 with the hydraulic clutch has the hardest pull of any bike I have ever ridden. the shop that replaced the clutch many years ago commented that the clutch spring was "incredibly strong when compared to other bikes" probably due to the powerful engine the clutch has to deal with.
 

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Heavy duty clutch springs will require more effort.
 

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My GL1100

If you are looking for a Route, this is how mine is and has been routed since I've owned it. From the Clutch lever, behind the headlamp, and following the right upper part of the frame and following down along/below the rear break reservoir. Half my clutch lever snapped off, so even only using half the lever, the tightness feels normal with no strain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I pulled the clutch cover today. I loosened the 6 spring bolts (alternating). They were not that tight. I will check with my torque wrench some other day, (I can find the speks when I am ready), but I am betting they were not over tightened.
I put the cover back on just tight enough to check the pull. It was a bit easier, but what I noticed that is probably more significant....
When I had the cover off, I measured how far the plunger in the housing pushes out off the bike as compared to on. Off the bike the plunger can move 1/2 inch. On the bike, with the clutch lever bottomed out on the handle bar, the plunger only moved out 1/4 inch. (I marked the housing while it was on and then took the cover back off and measured).
Is that normal, or does it mean new friction discs and etc. and if so, will the old come out and the new go back in without pulling the engine?
 

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No you don't need to pull the engine. The plunger will move further with the cover off than with it on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I took the 6 bolts off that hold the springs, and re tightened them to aprox. 7 ft/lbs.
(I couldn't get my torque wrench in there, but got a 'feel' for it by wrenching a valve cover bolt.) It made a significant difference, although still pretty stiff. I may get a new set of springs from the dealer, since I have to get a new gasket for the cover anyway. Maybe the springs in it are after market. If they are not too expensive, it might be worth the try.
 

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My 86 1200 with 47k clutch is a beast compared with other touring bikes I've had. I put on some miles this weekend and after getting stuck in stop and go traffic the second day I woke up with a sore forearm today.
 

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My 82 1100i was like that when I first got it. I replaced the clutch cable and adjusted the clutch and it's been fine since. I was going to lube the old cable and reuse it, but decided against it when I saw what part of the inner cable looked like.
 
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