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Well I did it this time. . I have a GL- 1100. A couple days ago when I shifted into low the bike jumped forward a little. So I adjusted the clutch cable some and it was just fine for a couple days. Last night I was pointed into the garage about 3/4 way in and I started up and put it into low and it went right into the garage wall and punched a hole about 3 feet high and 5 feet wide right out side . About 300 in damages. Lucky I did not hit a stud. Bike looks ok. See when I ride again.

Before I start pulling things apart can someone give me an idea where to start ? And maby what happened.

Thanks Lee
 

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It sounds like maybe you have a broken clutch cable. If it is broken, it likely is there where the little barrel fitting is on the clutch lever end.
 

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Damper plate in the clutch pack is a possibility too...exact symptoms i had when those little freaking brass rivets started to let go.....
 

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I'm not sure where when and why I got into the habit, but I hold the front brake when I popany bike into gear. Especially in the morning when the plates can be stuck together.
 

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"Especially in the morning"...really? Maybe that explains why my 1200 "jumps" a little when I first start her up in the AM then put her in gear. What did you say was the cause? The plates stick together? What causes that?
 

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maestro319 wrote:
"Especially in the morning"...really? Maybe that explains why my 1200 "jumps" a little when I first start her up in the AM then put her in gear. What did you say was the cause? The plates stick together? What causes that?
Just the oil being a little "sticky" when cold, I think. I have no scientific evidence of that but, best as I can recall, every bike I've ever had has done that dance.

Once the bike gets warmed up a bit and the oil thins...no more issues. That is until it's allowed to sit, cool and coagulate again.
 

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I think some clutches just work better than others also. My previous bike, an 85 LTD, used to "jump" every time I put it in gear when it was cold. After riding it a while it would shift a lot better, still had a clunk but would not lurch. I bought that bike off the showroom floor and it always did that. My current 94 1500 does not do that at all. When cold I just pull the clutch in,wait a few seconds, then shift into first. It goes in really smooth with no lurching. In fact, it shifts better than any of the Goldwings I have ever owned.
 

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7quilterkids wrote:
it went right into the garage wall and punched a hole about 3 feet high and 5 feet wide right out side . About 300 in damages. Lucky I did not hit a stud. Bike looks ok. See when I ride again. "



Not to be a smartA bu how far apart are the studs in your wall?? Most studs are 16" and some 24" but 5 feet without hitting a stud? :baffled:
 

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racingbanker16 wrote:
7quilterkids wrote:
it went right into the garage wall and punched a hole about 3 feet high and 5 feet wide right out side . About 300 in damages. Lucky I did not hit a stud. Bike looks ok. See when I ride again. "



Not to be a smartA bu how far apart are the studs in your wall?? Most studs are 16" and some 24" but 5 feet without hitting a stud? :baffled:
He lives in CA...more sissies than studs there.
 

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Cable is not broken but it adjusted all the way out. Like the clutch was worn down all the way. As for the wallI missed the stude and punched the siding out. Looks like a 3 x5 aera of damage to the wood siding.I can fix the siding but cant replace the 6 antique glass blocks that were stored right there between the stude. . Bummer. Thanks for the help. Dive into it this week end.
 

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Hey 7,



BTW, Welcome to the Forums'!!!!



Glad you weren't hurt. The clutch isn't such a bad job. I was a bit intimidated at first at just the idea but with a little encouragement from my friend Daveman (above) I took the project on myself. Turned out great.



Clutch Plates are fairly cheap if you stay away from Honda stuff. I used EBC which is a good brand. Make sure you use new springs too and not just the friction plates.



Tim.
 

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Just took out the clutch. 3 Places the disc were stuck together. Looking for plates now. Rear wheel off so you can get a long extension over the center stand. Right pedal off and the breather cannister under the alternater. The nut can be loosened with a long punch but you will need a spanner tool to tighten it back on or carefullly cut a 1 1/16 socked with a grinder to make you own spanner tool. I see somebody welded 1/4 inch key stock onto a smaller cocket for a tool. Use the nut to make the tool up.
 

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hondatriker wrote:
Just took out the clutch. 3 Places the disc were stuck together. Looking for plates now. Rear wheel off so you can get a long extension over the center stand. Right pedal off and the breather cannister under the alternater. The nut can be loosened with a long punch but you will need a spanner tool to tighten it back on or carefullly cut a 1 1/16 socked with a grinder to make you own spanner tool. I see somebody welded 1/4 inch key stock onto a smaller cocket for a tool. Use the nut to make the tool up.
This post is from last September. Hopefully he got it back on the road by now. He never has posted since.
 

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Mine would also jump when I first hit the start button, if it had been sitting a couple of days. Just got into the habit of leaving it in neutral before starting. After warm up of motor it does not (usually) jump.
 

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my gl1200 did this and i found air bubbles in clutch resivor. Bleed it out andeverything ok for a while then got bubbles again.Believe it needs slave cylinder kit.Nothing like taking off at a red light when your not ready to go.
 

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Got it fixed. There were 3 places the plates were stuck together. No papers on this bike and I only use it to ride for a short distance to my brothers about 2 times a week.Took it apart and cleaned the plates really well and put back together. Works like a new . no more jump when going to first and shifts smooth shifting up.
 
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