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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've replaced the timing belts and the carbs on my GL1100. I'm getting spark to the number 2 and 4 cylinders and I'm getting gas to them because the plugs are wet when I pull them out to check them but it doesn't seem to be firing on that side. The exhaust isn't hot like the other side and the headers aren't hot on that side. Is it possible the valves are so far out of adjustment that its not getting enough compression on that side to fire properly? There is lots of exhaust being pushed out the tail pipe on that side. I haven't adjusted the valves yet but when I did the belts they were off by 1 and a half to two teeth on both sides. They're right on now. If you go here you can see what its doing, http://s940.photobucket.com/user/seldonca/media/VID-20130522-00014.mp4.html .
 

· It aint rocket science
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If you are sure about the spark and the wet plugs only one thing left and that is compression.

Before any speculation do a compression test of the motor and get back with the results.
 

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I think you must have checked the belts at the wrong timing mark or something. Had the belts been out that far I doubt the bike would have run very well, if at all.
Put the belts back where they were.
 

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Your before picture #1 looks more correct with the timing marks falling exactly between the two (spokes) of cam gear when compared to the tutorial.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1200timingbelts.htm

edit: I was thinking this was a 1200 so the above might not apply.:?
 

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Do a valve adjust before going further. That can cause all kinds of other symptoms and a compression test will be off if valves are not right. Thinking ahead and not very positively, is it possible the exhaust you see coming is steam and the wet plugs from antifreeze solution?
 

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when I did the belts they were off by 1 and a half to two teeth on both sides. http://s940.photobucket.com/user/seldonca/media/VID-20130522-00014.mp4.html .
I'm having a little trouble with this statement. When you bought it, you said it fired right up in sub freezing temps.
You show pictures of the cam gear, but no relationship to the crank. Are you absolutely sure you were at TDC (T1) when you took it apart and reassembled it? Very uncommon to be off on BOTH sides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I do have pictures of all the timing marks. I was very picky about getting that right. It was on T1, and the pulleys were in the up position. They were both definitely out originally. They are right on now. It does run now, better than before but 2 and 4 are not working right.
 

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I did notice the resistor caps have been replaced, and the insulating boots have been removed. Have you tried swapping the wires?
Then do a valve adjust. Considering the belts were off as much as you say, the last guy didn't know what he was doing, and you have no idea how "much" he did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I took the rubber boots off while I was working on it. I have tried switching the wires as well. I'm doing the valves on the left side now. One thing I'm not clear on is do you turn the engine 180 degrees for the second cylinder on the same side?
 

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I took the rubber boots off while I was working on it. I have tried switching the wires as well. I'm doing the valves on the left side now. One thing I'm not clear on is do you turn the engine 180 degrees for the second cylinder on the same side?
It's a four stroke motor. You adjust the valves, turn the engine 360 degrees and adjust the rest. What repair manual are you using?
 

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I just checked the article and it's dead on. Clean your glasses or get a new prescription.
It says turn engine 360 degrees.
 

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Did that fix it?? If so, that's what this forum is all about, good luck and ride it hard.
 
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