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i have spent several hours trying to install a set of timing belts on my gl1100.i don't know where i going wrong,but i am.when turning crank to tdc do you turn 2 rev'd to move cams 1 revoution. it takes 2 times by t-1 to move it 360 degrees i think i've got the valve adjusting down pat,buti believe my timing belts are not right.i must be one dummy cause i can't get it right.everybody seems to thinks it easy. i really must be at the place in my life where i should just let a shop do it,hard on a retired person.i have printed three sets of instructions off our site.i did note that when number 1 piston was at top the number 2 piston is at top on my gl1100.the instructions look fairly easy,but somehow i make a wrong turn,help. thanks hoghideman
 

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hoghideman wrote:
i have spent several hours trying to install a set of timing belts on my gl1100. i have printed three sets of instructions off our site.i did note that when number 1 piston was at top the number 2 piston is at top on my gl1100.the instructions look fairly easy,but somehow i make a wrong turn,help. thanks hoghideman
When no 1 pistion is at TDC, it must be on the compression stroke & not the exhaust stroke. Could this be where you're going wrong?
 

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There marks on the cam pulleys. They can be confusing as some have two marks, a dot and a line or groove. It is the groove you want to line up with the mark on the timing cover. There should an "UP" on each pulley. Of course, it goes up if all is right.

Loosen the bolts holding the tension idlers. Slip the belts off of the pulleys.

When you remove the right hand belt, as you sit on the bike, the valve springs are pushing the valves so the the pulley wants to turn some. You must devise a way to hold the pulley so the timing marks are lined up. A 12mm wrench and a tie wrap works for some.

Install the new belts carefully without using any tools on them. They will slip in place fairly easily. Again, make sure the timing marks are still lined up at the pulleys and the cover when the top run of the belt is snug.

Keeping everything in place, which requires at least six hands, push the tensioner against the belt and snug the bolts enough to hold them. Check everything again. Now tighten the tensioner bolts firmly. Check again.

Now, turn the engine using the crank shaft bolt clckwise at least two turns. There should be no feeling of interference except compression pressure. To get a better feel, take the spark plugs out.

Check the timing marks again and if anything has changed correct it.

You do not turn the engine until the belts are installed and their tension set correctly.

Lyle
 

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Redeye1620 wrote:
hoghideman wrote:
i have spent several hours trying to install a set of timing belts on my gl1100. i have printed three sets of instructions off our site.i did note that when number 1 piston was at top the number 2 piston is at top on my gl1100.the instructions look fairly easy,but somehow i make a wrong turn,help. thanks hoghideman
When no 1 pistion is at TDC, it must be on the compression stroke & not the exhaust stroke. Could this be where you're going wrong?
The piston doesn't know what stroke it's on, the camshaft determines that.
 

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Ken Bergen wrote:
The piston doesn't know what stroke it's on, the camshaft determines that.
+1, just get all the marks as they should be and you will be fine and remove the plugs and check everything after 4 full turns of the crank
 

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Redeye1620 wrote:
hoghideman wrote:
i have spent several hours trying to install a set of timing belts on my gl1100. i have printed three sets of instructions off our site.i did note that when number 1 piston was at top the number 2 piston is at top on my gl1100.the instructions look fairly easy,but somehow i make a wrong turn,help. thanks hoghideman
When no 1 pistion is at TDC, it must be on the compression stroke & not the exhaust stroke. Could this be where you're going wrong?
OK, not to make things anymore confusing than need be,
When the piston is TDC that's all there is to it on the crank/piston end.
Where the cam shaft is at TDC is what makes the difference on what stroke it is.

Set the TDC for the #1 piston, then make sure both cams are set to the correct marks on front of engine.

The only time you really need to worry about the crank turns 2 times for 1 turn of the cams is after the belts are on! You want to turn it over by hand a few full turns to make sure nothing hits or binds up.
 

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lyleapgmc wrote:
There marks on the cam pulleys. They can be confusing as some have two marks, a dot and a line or groove. It is the groove you want to line up with the mark on the timing cover. There should an "UP" on each pulley. Of course, it goes up if all is right.
This is why I always recommend marking the pulleys and covers with a dab of paint in a easy to see location prior to pulling the old belts once TDC is set.

And to the OP, yes the crank moves two revolutions for each revolution of the cams.

JD
 

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I sent you another PM just now.
I'll ride out the 400 miles and look this over for you for free, check the pm and let me know if you want me too.

I'm thinking either it's a simple error or else something else not the timing causing the problem.
 

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Chromo wrote:
I sent you another PM just now.
I'll ride out the 400 miles and look this over for you for free, check the pm and let me know if you want me too.

I'm thinking either it's a simple error or else something else not the timing causing the problem.
Gotta love this forum. If he was close to me I would do the same thing. Retirees, one day god willing, I will be a member of.

JD
 

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I'm not a retiree, just a broke cycle bum that likes to ride for any reason especially if I can help others LOL

Err.. really I am self employed, temporally out of work due to company cut backs LOL
 

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hoghideman wrote:
when turning crank to tdc do you turn 2 rev'd to move cams 1 revoution. it takes 2 times by t-1 to move it 360 degrees
Yes that is the way it works, two 360 degree turns of the crank gives one 360 degree turn of the camshafts pulleys.
You don't say what problem you have other than that, so it looks like you got it right.
 

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ok i am asking how do u know if 1/3 coil is firing or is 180 out without starting the bike. I know all u have to do is change the yellow and blue wires on the coils to change but is there a way to know first.
 

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I would start double checking from the beginning.

Put crank on T1, look at cams and see if they are lined up or 1/2 turn (180) off. #1 piston should be out to the head.
If cams are 1/2 off, then turn crank 1 full turn ONLY to T1 again so that the cams rotate only 1/2 a turn.

Since the crank rotates 2 full turns for 1 full turn of a cam, then on T1 with piston out to the head, the cams will either be lined up or 1/2 turn/180 off! That is the way they should be!
BOTH cams should be the same, either lined up or 180 off at the same time.

Rotate to T1, piston out to head, cams lined up on marks on engine front. BOTH valves on #1 cylinder should be closed.
Then check the valve adjustments again.
Adjust as the linked page shows, remember you only turn the crank 1 full turn when adjusting the valves.
 

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OK, for those not sure, we have been talking in PM's also, but I'll post in here same info in case it's useful to anyone else.

When sitting on bike, Left is on Left.
I think that is generally how things are referred to as which side, even though if standing in front of bike it would be wrong. So left is Left when sitting on bike.

I just checked the 1100 in the shop, my project bike, it's in perfect time, 35K miles and I'm sure the Original Honda belts! (of course I will be changing them later also)

With Crank timing mark on the back of engine under the timing hole, the lines in the middle of the T line up with mark on hole. (NOT the lines on the 1 )

On the left pulley (as sitting on bike) there are 2 raised bars one on each side of pulley, word UP also. UP is UP and the raised bar lined up with mark on engine case. ( I do not have a groove on this pulley)

On the right pulley there is a groove in the pulley and also the raised bar both are on both sides of pulley.
UP is UP and the BAR is lined up with the mark on engine, same as the left pulley.

So, with only 35K and the bike sitting for years and the belts say Honda, I am pretty certain this is the factory setting as set by Honda LOL
And this 1100 ran great when I had it running in shop other than carb problems.

So, summary, -T- lined up with timing hole mark on back of engine, both pulleys UP is UP and the raised bar lined up with mark on engine case.

Why there is a groove on 1 pulley I have no idea, just to confuse people I guess LOL
 

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I have no idea why they put that groove mark there, there is no mention of it anywhere in the manual.
 

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I think it is there to confuse people LOL
 

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OK this is my 2 cents worth, pull all the plugs, grab the crankshaft nut with a socket, turn it in the way that would tighten the nut, Slowly, if it binds up at all throughout 2 revolutions. STOP. You have to rethink your belt settings, if it doesn't, stop turning when both UP's on the sprockets are both (as you view them from the front), the right way up, at that time, remove the timing cap and T1 should be right there in the middle, aligned with the mark on the engine case.
If you have it even one cog on one sprocket out T1 will not line up at all. Good luck.
 
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