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Hi,

When I rode bikes, it was mostly older British bikes, BSA Norton, Triumph. I just sold a restored 73 Norton Commando. Now I bought a new project from ebay and the guy totally misrepresented it. It is a 1981 Goldwing GL1100. The engine has 4 carbs and it has a slight knock and burns more oil than gas. My wife asked "why did I buy it". The only answer I have is "I like to fix stuff". I have several service manuals for it and an owners manual. The net is full of information. Number oneI need to know where in the States is the best, cheapest place to buy quality parts for a goldwing? Next question, how hard is it to pull the engine from one of these things? I hope to make a nice riding smooth highway bike out of this thing. I'm to old to bounce around on a Norton anymore. And how do you know the difference between a regular 1100 and a 1100 Interstate, and what ever other 81 1100 there is? Thanks for the help in getting started.
 

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Hi Chuck and welcome to the site. You:ll be amazed at the info available here. I have a 82 Goldwing Standard, she:s a beauty. So you want to do a restore. You came to the right place. Here is some info about 1100s. Honda came out with the 1100 in 1980. Two models, the Standard, which had no extras and the Interstate with the extras. In 1982 they added another model, the Aspencade even more extras. Same models again for 83 with a few added inprovements. Then they changed in 84 to the 1200 engine. I:ve had a 82 and 83 Standard. Some brother may correct me if I:m wrong but thats the beauty of this site. Somebody always knows more than you. Good Luck with your project, let me know if you need some parts...Dave
 

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Hey Dave,

Oh I'm going to need parts all right. That's the bad thing i suppose. When i did my last Norton restore, it was down to every last nut and bolt and it really got expensive. Britt parts ain't cheap, unless you go get em. The 1100 has 67K miles on it so the first thing I'm going to do is determin where the knock is coming from and a compression check. I know the first thing I'll need is an overhaul gasket set. I read somewhere you can't grind the crank? If it's worn you need to replace it? The forum looks great and it will take me a while to check it all out. I'm sure I'll learn what I need to know.
 

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Hey, Chuckb01, greetings!

First, let me tell you that rebuilding a 'Wing engine is mostly cost prohibitive as there is usually a good supply of used engines , just gotta be patient for a good one. As for burning oil and knocking, there are a couple of things to look for/at. Being a flat four, if the bike sits on the side stand for a while, oil can leak past the rings, causing the left bank to smoke on start up, sometimes for a few minutes. The "knock" could be the notorious drive chain death rattle, which really sounds bad at idle, just off idle, andunder load. This knock is often significantly lessened or eliminated with a good carb sync. These are idiosyncrasies of the early wings.

Most everyone here will tell you, CHANGE THE TIMING BELTS, as this is an interference engine. My own experience has led me to tell everyone to at least CHECK the water pump, both my '81 and '82 needed replacement, each had just over 50k miles on the clock. Antifreeze is another big thing...

OK, I'll stop, as I could go on and on...

Todd
 

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Yo Todd,
Don't stop on my account. I'm trying to learn stuff. I'm making notes on stuff to check. I hope your right about the chain rattle. I'll check that. As far as the oil burning, most of it is coming out the right pipe. I think the carbs are not syncd at all very good. It runs and idles like crap even after warm up. You can almost tell that some cylinders are working harder than others. I hope it's not a rod or main bearing but I don't think new rings and cylinder head reworking would be to expensive. I agree about the timing belts and water pump. Thanks a lot for the help. Mine could be classified as a barn find, maybe or worse.
 

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Hi Chuck and welcome to the forum. This is the place if you wish to complete a rebuild. A GL engine with only 67K shouldn't be an issue unless it was rode hard and put up wet for most of its life. The knock you hear is likely the primary drive chain and this can be quieted with mainly carburetor work. Clean up and rebuild the carbs, tune them and get them in sync and you will be amazed how much better it runs and sounds. As for the oil usage, there are of course a number of possibilities but my first shot would be at the valve stem seals unless a compression test tells you otherwise. As for how to tell how the bike came from the factory, take a look at the plate attached to the steering head. It will show GL1100 or GL1100I, there were only the two models in 1981. The "I" is for the Interstate and came from the factory with all the tupperware. The attachment is one of the places you can find OEM parts.

http://www.hondaonlineparts.com/

Stay with us, there are many folks on the forum with a wealth of knowledge on where you are headed. We all want you to succeed. Good luck and keep us informed as to the progress.
 

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This post is great reading and will help you out on some of your questions maybe!

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum9/55455.htmlResurecting an old wing.

I have a 81 standard that I have been riding for a couple of years now, Added the Hondaline fairing, Interstate trunk and saddle bags, now I have a 82 Aspy, love riding either one!
 

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Hey, JackJohn's spot on, 67k is nothing on these bikes. Compression test is recommended, should be 150 to 170 with 10lbs or less difference. Hear tell people run engines with 120lbs for years, though. Valve stem seals are a common culprit for oil consumption, as JackJohn says.

Another big deal is the stator, more directly, the connector in the wires leading to the regulator. Pull the left side (battery) cover. Directly to the front of the battery, there is a connector with three yellow wires. This connector is notorious for melting, leading the stator to an early demise!:shock: Best defense is to clip out the connector, strip and solder the wires back together. It doesn't matter which wire to which on these three yellows. CAUTION: removing the connector will make it more dificult to test the stator. Just an FYI, replacing the stator requires pulling the engine, and OEM stators are $200+

81's were only standards or interstates, and everything is interchangeable mechanically. There are specific differences in tire size, brake components, and such. 80 and 81 were virtually the same, 82, brakes and tires, 83, major brakes, tires, anti-dive forks, etc.

Just curious, whereabouts in 'scony are ya?

Todd
 

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The purple beast was a barn find that would run at 45 wide open.After e-bay carbs and bone yard fuel tank she ran great.It now has 33000 miles on the speedo and I found out that the engine is might near it bullet proof. Change the timeing belts after compression check and run it. Visit www.partsnmore.com for a look around.
 

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Welcome chuckb01. If your wing has been sitting it will behave like a spoiled little kid for awhile.

before you rip it all apart, aside from the carbs & the belts, It needs an oil change, Fresh fuel, filter & plugs followed by a good ride to wake it back up. If your compression reads low, it might improve from a good run.

To test compression you will get your best results with a full battery, Throttle wide open for max air, A good starter as crank speed will effect compression readings & I prefer a warmed up engine for accurate results.

Do not crank this engine if the plug wires are off without using your kill switch to stop the spark load, it is hard on the coils. The air breather is a lil frustrating to get at but must be clean for your wing to run well & get mid to high 40's for mileage.

Any carb parts like kits should come from randakks or mother Honda. alot of bad results were reported on this forum by jobber kits not working well. Head gaskets are the same, Mother honda's are good quality. A good dose of "Sea foam" in your fuel might help your carbs clean up but this depends on how gummed up they are. it should idle at 1000 or 1050 smoothly if your low speed jets are clear.

Keep us posted!!!
 

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hey same here. i'm rebuilding second time around, you can pull the motor in 45 minutes if you know what your doing!i took mine out last night, replacing it with a gl1100 83 asp motor, remove the rad , then carb's disconnect the cables clutch etc:
remove remove the bolt's one at a time top first, slide a hand jack underneat,
with a peice of 5/8 8x8, or 2 by 4 whatever you have, lift a little to take the strain then remove the bottom bolt's, and the side bar , bingo it slides right out.
 

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Unless there is something seriously wrong with the motor, I won't take much to get it back to normal.

I agree, there are alot of spare motors out there cheap.
 

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Hi Chuck and welcome!

Most has already been said,

(1) I too would be very surprised if you need an engine rebuild..
(2) Start with the fuel system.. Good working carbs will fix most of those strange noises.. you may need to
(3) get the ignition system gremlins worked out..

and of course the timing belts..

With this, you may find you have a good running bike.

Parts are available... my favorite sources are http://www.hdlparts.com and http://www.servicehonda.com both supply OEM parts at discount prices.
 

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When I rebuilt my 1100 ( see link below), I didnt have to get too deep into the motor. But as far as parts go what ever I didnt get on ebay, I ordered from www.bikebandit.com. They were always eager to help and I got quick shipping. They also offer live, online help so you can get your questions answered. :)

Since then I did have to pull the motor due to a starter clutch problem. You will need a helper to get the motor out of the frame because of the weight and it is a bit awkward. Just follow the clymer manual and you'll be ok. Hardest part......probably disconnecting the drive shaft because of the rubber boot. :action:
 

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Hey Chuck

Welcome, and as with the rest of th gang here you probably won't need a rebuild. Mine sat for 12 years on the side stand. I put good penetrating oil down each plug hole and left it for a few days. Turned it over by hand and poured good oil in each cylinder and left it to expand the rings. While that was going on I completely rebuilt the carbs and had them bathed in a sonic bath to clean the little air-ways etc.

Then drained every fluid out and changed the oil and gas filters and blew out any crap in the gas tank and flushed it. Put it all together and filled the fluids, cranked it over (original battery with a charge) while spraying WD40 down the carbs and it fired up, ran like crap and burnt all the oil out of the cylinders but ran. Did the length of rubber hose listening devise carb sync to get them close. (you use 3/4 " pipe about 1-2' long up to your each to gauge the amount of air going down each carb by putting one end up to your ear and the other at th carb throat) and thn took it into a shop for a proper sync and new plugs and timing. It now runs awesome except that one float is a bit off but that will be my next project.
 

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Well I have been neglecting my questions on this forum for a bit. Thank you all for the kind help and answers. I feel better now and think I'll fix this thing rather than sell it. I have the fairing and bags and side covers off. The first thing i did was put new plugs in and it runs much better with just that. After running it for 20 minutes or so and giving it a couple good revs, the oil problem seems better. I think it was sitting quite a while and not run before I bought it. The compression test was a disapointing 9-100 psi on the average for all cylinders before I run it. Now I'll check it again tomorrow. I'm positive the carbs need to be cleaned and synced. They look like they never been cleaned. When it misses, that's when I get the most noise. And if I put it in gear on the center stand and hold the foot brake on and let the clutch out slowly to apply a good load, the knock is not real prominate, which means to me, it probably is not a rod or main. Tomorrow I'll check the oil pressure also. I think it probably is the primary chain jumping around. No adjust ment for these things just replacement? Thanks everyone.
 

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Todd, Actually I live on the Wi/IL state line but we are building a house up by Plainfield wi. I bought the bike from a guy on ebay and he is in Hillsboro and he got it from some lady in Oconto. I think I probably paid 3 time what he paid for it. Thanks for the help. I'll have her fine by spring
 

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Hi jackjohn? I get that right? Thanks for the help. I'm sure mine is the Interstate. I'm getting a headache trying to absorb all this info. So I printed it
 

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Hey Hatchetman,

Your right so far. I'm going to give it another compression check today after I run it up for a while. Can't take it for a ride as I got started on ripping things off to get at the carbs and engine. I have an old mercury filled carb syncronizer that works with 4 carbsI've had hanging on the garage wall for a long time. It's going to get some use. Very accurate. Thanks for your help. Have a good one.
 
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