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Just new to this forum, since I just bought a 1980 GL1100. My electrical and mechanical background will surely be tested. I do not have a wiring diagram of your bike, nor mine as yet, but since the starter when used shuts off all power to other accessories, this has to be done from a control aspect, the solenoid which in reality is a bigcontactor, and not a relaysimply because it handles lots of current. So without any detail and not seeing, touching the bike in question I would suggest that you take a break from the problem, take a deep breath and do a diagnostic check that must be methodical. Do not jump around and do use a schematic. Do not attempt any repairs if you are not knowledgeable enough in the electrical department. Burned, pitted, overloaded contacts, wires, assemblies and devices react differently and it often takes a keen eye to know it or the differences. If you have time be patient, since when I take delivery of my bike there are a couple of manuals with it. If you have a schematic scan the parts of it and e mail to me and together we can go over the bike.
A voltage check will be diffiecult since the voltage will vary by .1 V.D.C. as you travel from the source. The first thing is to charge the battery to full capacity and then let it float for a couole of hours. Then read the voltage on the battery, must be at least 12.4- 13 V.D.C. nothing on.
Turn on the ignition switch but do not start. Read the battery voltage, it should drop to less than 12 VDC and then come back up to around the original reading. Now only once and with an extra hand hit the starter and at the same time read the voltage drop. It will drop to around 9 volts if the starter engages, if the starter does not engage and the voltage drops look at the starter solenoid.
Do an ohms check here, shut off the bike ignition switch, if you have a good digital multimeter the voltage can be left on and all wires on the battery left on, if you are using a cheap analog multimeter disconnect the battery completely, ie both _ and + terminals.
Now in X1 on Ohms, short out the test leads and read the meter, it may not hit zero, if adjustable zero the meter if digital remember the lowest number, somewhere around 000, or 00.1. Now put one lead on the + battery cable that is removed and the other lead on the feed side of the solenoid, the ohmage should be as close to zero as possible, anything higher shows a bad cable for many reasons. If ok then check out the resistance across the solenoid contacts that is when the starter solenoid is in normal position the main contacts that put the starter into drive should be infinite ohms, that is the relay contactor is open, disconnect the down side of the solenoid, hook up the battery again, disconnect the starter lead from the solenoid and turn on the bike and push in the start button and read the resistance in ohms across the solenoid, then verify the voltage both on the input and then the output from the solenoid to ground, while your at it verify the control voltage the smaller wires feeding the coil on the starter solenoid.
Readings: The main contacts when engaged, starter solenoid value in ohms should be as close to zero as possible, anything above 3 ohms is a problem. Voltage to the starter solenoid should be full battery voltage no lower, either side of the solenoid. If all is good then look at the N.C (Normally Closed) contacts tied to the solenoid, these contacts will open when the solenoid is engaged and remove power while the starter is engaged. These contacts could be built into the starter or the solenoid, since I am new to GL 1100, I do not know how they engineered it, but control of electricity does not change much.
In reality a schematic on both ends me and you looking at it will help, each of us need to try to get one.
If you have one e mail to me a copy to
[email protected]. By the way this is just the start of solving your problem, we have only just begun, this is where patience and knowledge come in
