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Hey all,

I rode about an hour yesterday with all fine, stopped for a rest and when I turned theGoldwing back on I had no headlight power and no neutral light. (in neutral)

I had no power to the bike. I pushed the bike off the center stand and the power came back. The Goldwing started, but ran like the fire was shorted to ground, not any power to speak of, 10 mph top speed.

I had no choice but to try and limp home. Soon after getting on the road the Goldwing came to life and ran fine to the house.

I have remade connections and checked battery voltage, main fuse voltage, but I have no power to lights or neutral light (in neutral).

Please advise
 

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Hey whopiecat :leprechaun: Welcome to the best Goldwing Forum on the net. :clapper:One of the "Gurus" will soon come to your aid. :weightlifter:

:walker::18red::walker:
 

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sounds to me to be the infamous intermittent main fuse . When the wings get older the blade main fuse breaks down (corrosion etc ) Try replacing whole main fuse with a bayonette style with 30 amp fuse you can get them with a semiwaterproof cap

Just remove old fuse; clean terminals and screw on new fuseholder

ps amke sure batt connections are clean and tight
 

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Welcome to the forum. I had the same thing happen on my 80 1100i . it was the main fuse.A meter can read a voltage because it dosn't draw any amps. A quick fix in the field is take a 30 amp glass fuse , smash it with a pliers and screw it in place. I did it 3 years ago and still havent had to replace it.
 

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ccsailor wrote:
sounds to me to be the infamous intermittent main fuse . When the wings get older the blade main fuse breaks down (corrosion etc ) Try replacing whole main fuse with a bayonette style with 30 amp fuse you can get them with a semiwaterproof cap

Just remove old fuse; clean terminals and screw on new fuseholder

ps amke sure batt connections are clean and tight

I've done that same thing on my ol' Honda Sabre... Works good yet...

It a pinch... A foil wrapper from a cigarette box or gum wrapper would work.... Not the greatest but it would get you home! ;)
 

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Any piece of metal across the screws will get you to the nearest auto parts store where you can buy a blade type fuse holder and a 30A fuse to attach across the two screws. Works good, lasts long time.
 

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Welcome to the forum whopiecat. MAin fuse does sound most likely and it's a common problem.
 

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whopiecat wrote:
Hey all,

I rode about an hour yesterday with all fine, stopped for a rest and when I turned theGoldwing back on I had no headlight power and no neutral light. (in neutral)

I had no power to the bike. I pushed the bike off the center stand and the power came back. The Goldwing started, but ran like the fire was shorted to ground, not any power to speak of, 10 mph top speed.

I had no choice but to try and limp home. Soon after getting on the road the Goldwing came to life and ran fine to the house.

I have remade connections and checked battery voltage, main fuse voltage, but I have no power to lights or neutral light (in neutral).
whopiecat, when you had all power quit that sounds like a main fuse (at starter relay), or ignition switch open. With everything working except neutral light & headlight that sounds more local than main fuse (check the fuses in the fuse box), or a pulled wire or bad connection going to the upper dash, head light area. A blown main fuseor poor connection at the main fuse connectors kills ALL the power to everything.

You might start at the main fuse & makes sure the large wire connectors entering that have a good sound connection & aren't burnt, then see if the headlight bulb isOK.

I suppose it's possible you had a main fuse connectioncause a problem then a voltage flair took outthe N light & headlight.

If nothing obvious found start at the ign switch & follow the power to the headlight.

Twisty
 

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I had the same problem a few years back. On the left side (when sitting on it) of the "81" bike I used to havethere was an inline spliceconnector for instrument lights and some other stuff. The covering over the splice had slipped off and it was grounding out on the frame when it touched. I lost lights, instrument lights and had power loss. Could be you have the same type issue. Good luck.:?
 

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Thanks for the information. I will clean the main fuse connections and set it back up with a fused 30 Amp device. It is good to know this message board is here. Take Care
 

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Well, I cleaned up the main fuse and set it back up again, the fuse looked good and metered out fine. I then made sure with a jumper cable across the main fuse screws. I don't think my problem is the main fuse.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated of what might cause all indication of power loss other than a dead battery. ( 82 Gl1100I )

Thanks
 

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Hey,

I have some more information that I hope will help someone tell me what is going on with my 82 GL1100I.

I have had a total power loss, and checked out the main fuse with no luck getting power back.

Strange thing when I have the bike on the center stand and if I put the bike in gear and bump the rear tire I get power back. The turn signals work and the horn works, they even work at the same time!

When I put the bike in neutral I get a neutral light,all fine, or so I thought.

When I try and push in the starter button the power drops out before the starter can ever turn.

I can bump the rear tire in gear and get power to come back on, but as soon as I try and turn her over the power drops out.


This bump the tire in gear seems to only work to restore power a few times.


What is going on ?



Thanks
 

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whopiecat wrote:
I have some more information that I hope will help someone tell me what is going on with my 82 GL1100I.
I have had a total power loss, and checked out the main fuse with no luck getting power back.
When I try and push in the starter button the power drops out before the starter can ever turn.
I can bump the rear tire in gear and get power to come back on, but as soon as I try and turn her over the power drops out.
This bump the tire in gear seems to only work to restore power a few times.
For starters (sorry) squirt some WD-40 in the starter switch and work it several times. It's supposed to remove the power from most of the bike's circuits when the starter is activated to reduce the drain on the battery. As for your bumping power on and off, it sounds a lot like a bad connection in the system. The fact that your bike came back to life weakly and then got better also supports a loose or corroded connection. I'd start by disconnecting the battery, starter relay and all the wires in that area one at a time and clean the connections. A small brass brush is good for this. Check all the connectors that go to the starter relay, they should be clean and snug with no discoloration or signs of melting. If you find any in that condition they must be corrected. Once that's done, if the same symptoms obtain, start wiggling wires until you can isolate the problem. This one should be relatively easy to find with a bit of detective work.
 

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whopiecat wrote:
Hey,

I have some more information that I hope will help someone tell me what is going on with my 82 GL1100I.

I have had a total power loss, and checked out the main fuse with no luck getting power back.

Strange thing when I have the bike on the center stand and if I put the bike in gear and bump the rear tire I get power back. The turn signals work and the horn works, they even work at the same time!

When I put the bike in neutral I get a neutral light,all fine, or so I thought.

When I try and push in the starter button the power drops out before the starter can ever turn.

I can bump the rear tire in gear and get power to come back on, but as soon as I try and turn her over the power drops out.


This bump the tire in gear seems to only work to restore power a few times.


What is going on ?
whopiecat, at that main fuse/starter relay you will find 2 large red/? wires, those plug into the starter relay with plastic connectors. Look closely for melted plastic, burnt & blackened wire terminals, etc. Those are a very problematic area & can easily cause a problem like you have. Those red wires supply power to the entire bike & supply power to the ign switch. Maybe try wiggling those wires next time your problem appears.

The best way to repair those wire connectors if they are burnt is to cut the wires off just above their plastic connectors,, then trim back BOTH red/? wires until clean wire is found,, then solder those red wires together & also solder one pig tail of a 30 amp sealed spade type automotive fuse holder (2 red wires + one pig tail of a 30 amp fuse together),, then solder on an eye ring on the other pigtail of that fuse holder & hook that ring under the (+) battery's post bolt (that effectively eliminates the bike's main fuse completely & also eliminates any chance of poor connection at the starter relay.

Twisty
 

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Hey Folks,

I have tried all suggestions. I replaced the main fuse with an in-line style fuse. I have sprayed WD-40 in the starter switch. I have checked all connections for possible problems and found nothing to indicate a problem.

At this point I would love to find a wire that falls apart, so I would at least know I had done something to solve the problem.

I am about to the point where I am going to hard wire all connections anywhere on the bike. Is that overboard?

I still see the power come on every so often, I can sometimes get the power to come on when I put the bike in gear on center stand and bump rear tire, but all power goes away if I try to turn on anything.

Suggestions ?

Thanks for all the help
 

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 Before I would  ever start hard soldering EVERYTHING .. which will just be a pain to do,and an even bigger pain   in your way when you want to re and re anything ,like a starter solenoid... I would get a  accurate MultiMeter, and a small notebook,and possibly a friend who knew motor electronics, and slowly, painfully, from the battery , start tracing voltage drops, along each circuit to  first of all ,the starter..... (and writing the voltages down,as you proceed ) the starter is the biggest draw of current.. and the fact you get no starting  says  the most important break is here somewhere... a) is it a good, well charged fresh battery ?/ 12.1 volts or whatever../forums/images/emoticons/cool.gif. b) is there still 12v  at the beginning of the solenoid / and the end ? c) have you tried (carefully ) with bike in neutral , going directly to the starter stud, with a jumper from your battery?...These electrical problems usually require  a bit of detective work... and often it turns out to be the obvious ... 'What .. it needs gas ???/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/gunhead.gif"     lol.. or in your case ... "What , it has to be a fully charged battery ??/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/gunhead.gif" get back to us...  There are more than enough experts on this board to find this... SilverDave /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif 
 

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whopiecat wrote:
Hey Folks,

I am about to the point where I am going to hard wire all connections anywhere on the bike. Is that overboard?

I still see the power come on every so often, I can sometimes get the power to come on when I put the bike in gear on center stand and bump rear tire, but all power goes away if I try to turn on anything.
Hard splicing the three stator wires isn't a bad idea, but I wouldn't do that to any connector unless it was showing some damage or corrosion. At this point you need a wiring diagram for your bike. With a voltmeter you can start at the battery and trace each circuit to the fuses and on to the load the circuit supplies. Start at the fuse box, if you have power to the fuses, check each fuse connection on the load side. Pick a fuse and wire color and trace it until you find where the voltage stops. I'd start with the main fuse circuit check the power on the output side of both 30A fuses if good there just follow the wires until you lose the voltage. You've obviously got a problem pretty close to the battery considering how many circuits are affected.

You might try to jump a wire from the battery to the starter to see if the starter will crank okay to make sure you don't have some kind of short in the starter. You can also use a wire from the positive side of your battery to the common input side of your fuse box. If that makes things work it's a problem between the point you jumped and the battery. You can also jump the + battery side to the output side of any given fuse if that works trace backwards through the fuse box to the battery. I think it might be the power relay but can't help you with which one is the main relay, if you have a Clymers you should have a diagram that will show the relays. The one that has a lead to the battery and then feeds most of the bike through it's switch contact is the one you're looking for. If it checks out just keep going through the wiring until the voltage disappears and you'll have it. I know it can be frustrating but the best way to tackle this type problem is with a volt meter, or tester and just move from point from the battery to the load.
 

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.......... I think ....maybe.. that  exavid and I  just said to do the same thing....   a fisrt folks... You read it here first!!!!!! Silverdave/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
 

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Just new to this forum, since I just bought a 1980 GL1100. My electrical and mechanical background will surely be tested. I do not have a wiring diagram of your bike, nor mine as yet, but since the starter when used shuts off all power to other accessories, this has to be done from a control aspect, the solenoid which in reality is a bigcontactor, and not a relaysimply because it handles lots of current. So without any detail and not seeing, touching the bike in question I would suggest that you take a break from the problem, take a deep breath and do a diagnostic check that must be methodical. Do not jump around and do use a schematic. Do not attempt any repairs if you are not knowledgeable enough in the electrical department. Burned, pitted, overloaded contacts, wires, assemblies and devices react differently and it often takes a keen eye to know it or the differences. If you have time be patient, since when I take delivery of my bike there are a couple of manuals with it. If you have a schematic scan the parts of it and e mail to me and together we can go over the bike.

A voltage check will be diffiecult since the voltage will vary by .1 V.D.C. as you travel from the source. The first thing is to charge the battery to full capacity and then let it float for a couole of hours. Then read the voltage on the battery, must be at least 12.4- 13 V.D.C. nothing on.

Turn on the ignition switch but do not start. Read the battery voltage, it should drop to less than 12 VDC and then come back up to around the original reading. Now only once and with an extra hand hit the starter and at the same time read the voltage drop. It will drop to around 9 volts if the starter engages, if the starter does not engage and the voltage drops look at the starter solenoid.



Do an ohms check here, shut off the bike ignition switch, if you have a good digital multimeter the voltage can be left on and all wires on the battery left on, if you are using a cheap analog multimeter disconnect the battery completely, ie both _ and + terminals.

Now in X1 on Ohms, short out the test leads and read the meter, it may not hit zero, if adjustable zero the meter if digital remember the lowest number, somewhere around 000, or 00.1. Now put one lead on the + battery cable that is removed and the other lead on the feed side of the solenoid, the ohmage should be as close to zero as possible, anything higher shows a bad cable for many reasons. If ok then check out the resistance across the solenoid contacts that is when the starter solenoid is in normal position the main contacts that put the starter into drive should be infinite ohms, that is the relay contactor is open, disconnect the down side of the solenoid, hook up the battery again, disconnect the starter lead from the solenoid and turn on the bike and push in the start button and read the resistance in ohms across the solenoid, then verify the voltage both on the input and then the output from the solenoid to ground, while your at it verify the control voltage the smaller wires feeding the coil on the starter solenoid.

Readings: The main contacts when engaged, starter solenoid value in ohms should be as close to zero as possible, anything above 3 ohms is a problem. Voltage to the starter solenoid should be full battery voltage no lower, either side of the solenoid. If all is good then look at the N.C (Normally Closed) contacts tied to the solenoid, these contacts will open when the solenoid is engaged and remove power while the starter is engaged. These contacts could be built into the starter or the solenoid, since I am new to GL 1100, I do not know how they engineered it, but control of electricity does not change much.

In reality a schematic on both ends me and you looking at it will help, each of us need to try to get one.

If you have one e mail to me a copy to [email protected]. By the way this is just the start of solving your problem, we have only just begun, this is where patience and knowledge come in
 
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