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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed a poor boy alt on my 1984 interstate. the volt meter reads 12 volts 0r 12.2, when I rev it up the volts do not increase on the meter. I haven't ridden it yet as the plastics are still off. I am unfamiliar with the situation of a volt meter. is this the way it works? :praying:
 

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OK dudeboy, I had the same thing happen. I started a thread on it,

GL1200, Poorboy Voltage Regulator Set Point ....Read post #13

Assuming that your wiring is right, you need to test your voltage regulator.

Where your exciter wire is plugged in, that is your voltage regulator. To the left of that plug is a small round hole, that is your field terminal, inside the hole.

With the bike running and a volt meter connected to the battery you need to ground that screw in there ( connect a wire to a good ground and fashion some kind of probe on the other end of the wire). If your voltage regulator is bad, and your alternator is good, the volt meter will climb fast. You may have to rev up your motor some to get the voltage to climb, depending on your pulley ratio.

My volt meter climbed to over 16 volts very quickly. This showed me that my voltage regulator was bad and my alternator was good.

Let me know what happens or if you have any questions about the test.

Scott
 

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Are you using a digital multimeter? I'm assuming that you're using an accurate volt meter at the battery.

Scott
 

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i would bet that the exciter wire is not getting any key-on voltage in order to start the alternator working
 

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i would bet that the exciter wire is not getting any key-on voltage in order to start the alternator working
That's what he told me too, as if I'm not capable of running a power wire from here to there. The other opinions were that my alternator was junk and that I had bought it at the wrong place. Granted, if you have an alternator with a bad voltage regulator tested at one of the chain stores, you are told that the alternator needs to be replaced, without a hint that only the voltage regulator is bad. Ebay voltage regulator $10.

anonymous
 

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Bump, dudeboy, how are you doing? What is the outcome, any improvement?

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
VERRRY sorry, I found the problem. Really I am smarter than this. I had the alt. charging wire on the batt. ground. I think I was tired that day and screwed up. Now it is charging at idle 13.4 volts. I do have a 4 inch prime wheel and it holds that voltage at fast rpm. the alt wheel is 3.3 inch. Thanks for the help, I would have benefitted more from a swift kick in the axx.
 

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Charging really should be over 14 volts at battery. I would be wondering about the health of your alternator/voltage regulator after having it wired that way and running. When testing that alternator at the chain store a voltage of below 13.5 volts is a test failed. I think you should still do the voltage regulator test with the F terminal grounded to see if your voltage rises. Your voltage regulator has a higher set point than 13.4 volts.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Charging really should be over 14 volts at battery. I would be wondering about the health of your alternator/voltage regulator after having it wired that way and running. When testing that alternator at the chain store a voltage of below 13.5 volts is a test failed. I think you should still do the voltage regulator test with the F terminal grounded to see if your voltage rises. Your voltage regulator has a higher set point than 13.4 volts.

Scott
I really wished you hadn't said that, now I am facing taking it off to have it tested. First I will try your test with the f terminal. any way, thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I looked for the terminal (f ) you wrote about and my alt isn't built that way. I couldn't find anything that even looked like it, is there somewhere else that I can do a check? I took it to Auto Zone and they tested it and said it was O.K. I haven't installed it back as of yet. If 13.4 is all I get, that is enough to keep my batt. charged. The only load I have on it is the normal lights. My alt is a denso out of a Geo Metro.
 

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I disassembled my bike for you. This is the F terminal, the screw inside this hole. Per the test in the PDF above, ground that screw while the bike is running, with a volt meter connected to the battery. If the voltage rises with the screw grounded your alternator is good and your voltage regulator is compromised. I know that Autozone told you that everything is good but the voltage that your alternator is putting out is at the lowest for passing their test. Voltage at your battery should be over 14 volts with the bike running and revving high enough to charge.

Here:

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=iodp8p&s=5
 

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This is your voltage regulator. It's easily tested and serviced. Everything about this alternator is built for easy service. There are two different physical sizes of regulators, there are many regulator set points for these, even 24 and 60 volts, there are various plug configurations. You have the smallest regulator with a set point of 14-14.x volts. You can substitute many of these intended for different makes of vehicles as long as the physical size and set points are the same. Different plugs might be substituted too if they work with the cover plate. I substituted mine with one for a Toyota forklift, Ebay $10.



http://tinypic.com/r/2it3cdh/5
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I took my alt to O'Reillys and had it tested. This is what they found, batt volts... low..13.5,... actual...1457....high..1540, ripple volts...actual...0.055, high...1.25, lamp on volts...actual....0.64, high ...8.00, lamp off volts...low...13.00, actual...14.34 high...0.00, and they said it was good. I believe this is good to go. my bike is almost all together, tomorrow I will ride it. Thanks for all the help I got from everybody.
 

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Actual 14.57 volts, that's good. When the alternator is on the bike you should also get 14.57 volts.

Scott
 
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