[RoyL]

imported post

My generator stator has packed up, looks like one winding has shorted out, so I will need to take the engine out to replace it. I would like to know if there is anything else I should be replacing at the same time, or anything that may be damaged on the strip down (exhaust studs, etc.) The bike is 20 years old but has only done 29000 miles, I just want to buy all the bits I will need, before starting the job. Look forward to your comments.

RoyL

 

[Renegade]

imported post

Royl, I'm facing the same job this winter.. For my suggestion, (where you didn't mention the specific year), also inspect the clutch & slave cylinder &alternator drive shaft for damage / wear. Repair or replace as needed. You should also have a rear engine gasket kit and shaft seals, dot-4 brake fluid for theclutch bleeding if you make repairs to the slavecylinder, a small tube of silicone sealer, antiseize compound and the repair manual.Change the antifreeze while you're at it with the non-silicate type, and inspect all the cooling / vacuum hoses for cracks, dryness or bulges.. Let us all know how the job goes...

Renegade

_________________________________________________________

All Gave Some,, Some Gave All

 

[Jason]

imported post

Royl, Buy a few exhaust studs as you usually break a couple. They break on the narrow threaded part so the stumps come out handy with a vice grips. Sound advice by Renegade to check the clutch slave cylinder. I'd by new seals and fit them as the engine will need pulling again if the slave develops a leak later on. Starter rollers and springs are cheap enough, buy a set and fit them at the same time. Whether you want to spend the cash on new clutch plates is up to you, but if you plan on keeping the bike then it makes more sense to do so. While it's all on the floor pull the starter motor and strip it down to blow out any dust and inspect the brushes.
Don't forget to think about timing belts as well. the covers need to be removed so the engine will clear the frame, ideal time for fitting new belts.

 

[RoyL]

imported post

Thanks Chaps, Looks like I have got a lot of work to do, now all I need is some time off work to get on with it, and plenty of space making in the garage.

Thank's again for your help.

 

[Goldwinger1984]

imported post

Just wondering if you fellas have considered a car type alternator for your Wings.

I put a 50 amp. alternator on my 84 1200 almost 3 years ago and have had great success with it. When the lower fairing is in place you can't even tell the alternator is there. I raised my fan assembly up for belt clearance but some guys just move the radiator forward a bit.

Here's the link if you want to peek at it; http://groups.msn.com/BackYardBuiltGoldwingsBarGrill/alternatorconversion.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=319



Vic

 

[Skooter]

imported post

Nice one Vic, looks like a tight fit! I'd say a car alternator is the ideal answer to the 1200's problem.

 

[Goldwinger1984]

imported post

Thanks Paul. Yes it is a tight fit, but, it doesn't rub against any of the plastic and now I can use extra lights and not have to worry about battery drain. Nicest part is that if this alternator ever fails I can remove and replace it in less than 15 minutes.

Vic

 

[BRowan]

imported post

Vic, how do you adjust the fan belt? Is there a bracket on the top part just outside of the picture?

 

[1200wingrider]

imported post

Hi, I'm Mervyn

My GL 1200 aspen, Has a leaking Clutch Slave Cylinder Piston Cup-Seal, cannot find any in home town. What other bike has the same spec for this seal, so i can buy it and fix my babby! Please Help!!

 

[Renegade]

imported post

JC Whitney... Bike Bandit. I believe they sell them in kits..

 

[twisty]

imported post

RoyL wrote:

My generator stator has packed up, looks like one winding has shorted out, so I will need to take the engine out to replace it. I would like to know if there is anything else I should be replacing at the same time, or anything that may be damaged on the strip down (exhaust studs, etc.) The bike is 20 years old but has only done 29000 miles, I just want to buy all the bits I will need, before starting the job. Look forward to your comments.

RoyL

Roy, with only 29,000 miles on it you really shouldn't have much clutch or other engine wear.

When dropping the engine, pull the carbs loose from the cyl heads & wire them up to the bike, then leave the carbs with the bike while pulling the engine.. That will save some time & make pulling the engine out easier.

While you have the engine out you might want toalso:

-Pull the final drive & drive shaft out first.. That makes re-installing the engine easier & after 20 years it's time to drain the final drive & re-lubricate the drive shaft splines (use HIGH moly content grease on the splines)

-Install 2 new cam belts as the originals are probably marginal by now (the R/H will need to be removed to get the engine out.. (use a paint pencil to mark the crank pulley & both cam pulleys to the engine cover, that will make it easier to line the new belts up)

-Install new radiator hoses as the rubber is probably very hard by now.

-Install as many new vacuum & fuel hoses as you can fine new for.. Those are also probably hardened & brittle by now.

-While apart, install a newair cut-off valve kit.. The original is more then likely hardened up & is now pretty lazy & opening at the wrong vacuum..

-After the engine is back in, make sure you hard wire the new stator (3 yellow) wiresat the connector at front of the battery area & at the voltage regulator area.. That will protect the new stator against future damage.

I might not be a bad ides to also install a new voltage regulator to make sure that isn't the reason the original stator failed.

All in all it really isn't that big a job to install a new stator..

Twisty

 

[Goldwinger1984]

imported post

BRowan wrote:

Vic, how do you adjust the fan belt? Is there a bracket on the top part just outside of the picture?

The alternator belt tension is adjusted mcuh the same as it is in a car. The upper bracket has a slot that the bolt slides in. Just loosen the upper and lower bolts, tilt the alternator out to tighten, inward to loosen,set the belt tension then retighten the bolts and you're done. On my Wing I used a 3 groove micro V belt so it does not require much alternator travel to adjust the belt tension.

Vic

 

[Redwing]

imported post

1200wingrider wrote:

Hi, I'm Mervyn

My GL 1200 aspen, Has a leaking Clutch Slave Cylinder Piston Cup-Seal, cannot find any in home town. What other bike has the same spec for this seal, so i can buy it and fix my babby! Please Help!!

Hello 1200wingrider :waving:All the way from South Africa :clapper: A big Irish Welcome to the best Goldwing Forum on the net. :clapper:

:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:

 

[weewillywing]

imported post

1200wingrider wrote:

Hi, I'm Mervyn

My GL 1200 aspen, Has a leaking Clutch Slave Cylinder Piston Cup-Seal, cannot find any in home town. What other bike has the same spec for this seal, so i can buy it and fix my babby! Please Help!!

Hi Mervyn and welcome. You should put this in a new topic so that more people will see it.

 

[Eamonn1200]

imported post

Hey Vic, welcome back. Were you missing for a while?

Mervyn, welcome to the message board. Willy is right, ou really want to click the "NEW TOPIC" button so that everyone can see it from the main page. In any case you will have to buy the plunger and seal kit, part number is;





22886-MB4-305
Piston set, clutch master cylinder,

If you give this part number to your Honda dealer, he can cross reference it to see if it is available in your area.

 

[Goldwinger1984]

imported post

Hi Eammon, thanks for the kind welcome back.

Ihave beenextremely busy doing majorrenovations to my home and just couldn't get out here as much as I would have liked to.

Handling a keyboard is so very much nicer than handling a paintbrush from the third level of scaffolding and a lot less messy as well.

The good thing is that the outside of the house is done, but, now I have tofinish the inside so I can only get out here when my wife isn't looking otherwise she pulls real hard on ear and tells me to get off the computer and to get back to work on the house. LOL I keep telling her that it's more fun out here but she she won't listen.

The joys of marriage.

Vic

 

[englishted]

imported post

Nice to see you back Vic, even for quick visits.

 

[Goldwinger1984]

imported post

Thanks Ted. As soon as I see that yellow screen light up it feels like being at home again.

Hopefully I can get this house sorted out and completed to my wife's satisfactionin the next few months so I can get back out here like I used to.

Vic

 

[ccsailor]

imported post

Re the alt conversion you guys should check out the Kabuto alternator for their small diesels half the size of the Geo one so you don't have to sho horn it in

 

[Goldwinger1984]

imported post

I wonder what the price on that Kubota alternator would be? Usually their stuff is extremely expensive.

The Mitsubishi alternator is quite inexpensive and the Nippondenso alternator is smaller and inexpensive. It's actually a good fit under the lower fairing the only problem is making clearance for the drive belt behind the radiator.

With the tiny Denso alternator you can alsoset it up to put out almost 100 amps if you have a gazillion lights, heated riding suits and electric coolers in the trailer.

Vic