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I went on a long trip yesterday to Leesburg Fl and ended up
in stop and go traffic for a long time. When we got to
where we were gonna have lunch I noticed the horn didn't work. But after letting it run for a few mins it started working again. I shut it down and tried to restart and
it was dead.
We ate lunch and it started to to rain so I was figuring
I was gonna have to push start this hog, but it started.
I have notice in the past that when I come to a stop and
apply the brake my lights go dimmer. I have had the stator
plug changed and output checked and it was good.
I am thinking maybe connections are dirty or somthing with
the wiring to cause a drain when the brakes are applied.
Any suggestions?
Tahnks for a great site, your all a great bunch of people.
:waving:
 

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You should get it checked again. Get the output checked and also check that it's reaching the battery. I assume you have a good battery fitted?
 

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If your battery is old, I'd change that first or at least get it capacity checked at a specialist.

The symptoms you describe does sound like your stator is on the way out, mine did the same, every time the brake lightswere on, headlight dims then after a while, no juice in the battery. I went through 2 new batteries thinking they where faulty. The engine ignition was running on the power from the pulse coils which gave 12.4v at the battery above 1500rpm (should be 14.5v-14.9v with a good stator). eventually the stator burnt out completely and once replaced everything was back to normal.

I now use an optimate charger for when the bike is at home and have fitted a voltmeter to keep an eye on the charging system.

you say you've replaced the stator plug, cut it off and solder the wires together, the pins and receivers in the plug wear and don't make good contact causing arcing and bad connection
 

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If you search this topic you will find lots of threads for correcting this situation. Dave Campbell from Marysville Ohio has an after market wiring harness that many swear by. Good luck :cool:



Mike
 

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agoguen wrote:
I went on a long trip yesterday to Leesburg Fl and ended up
in stop and go traffic for a long time. When we got to
where we were gonna have lunch I noticed the horn didn't work. But after letting it run for a few mins it started working again. I shut it down and tried to restart and
it was dead.
We ate lunch and it started to to rain so I was figuring
I was gonna have to push start this hog, but it started.
I have notice in the past that when I come to a stop and
apply the brake my lights go dimmer. I have had the stator
plug changed and output checked and it was good.
I am thinking maybe connections are dirty or somthing with
the wiring to cause a drain when the brakes are applied.
Any suggestions?
agoguen, without a voltmeter hooked to your battery when the problem happened there is no real way to tell if you have charging system problems, normal occurance, or a starter problem.

If you are running extra lights or accessories on your Wing you could have just run the battery down in all that stop & go traffic.

Those early Wings only have a 360 watt charging system so there is no charge at engineidle. If you were inching along in traffic for a long time with the cooling fan running & the brakes on you could have run the battery down. Any extra lights really add to that basic problem.

You could also have had a problem with the starter hot soaking due to all that low speed operation & when that happens it just won't crank up until the starter cools off for a while.

On my personal 1200 Wing I have a switch installed to turn the head light off when caught in long traffic jams. I also have an analog voltmeter installed to keep an eye on the battery voltage. When sitting at astop light with the engine idling, fan running,& brake on, I can watch the battery voltage drop to about base battery voltage.

If that long trip yesterday to Leesburg Fl. was the only time you have had a problem with starting you might just run it some more & see if the problem doesn't return. If not it was probably just all that stopping & inching along.

A sulfated older battery can also run low very easily so if your battery is old or weak it probably doesn't hold enough reserve to keep itself up during high discharge conditions (like you had on your trip).



I have notice in the past that when I come to a stop and
apply the brake my lights go dimmer.
That is about normal, especially when the battery starts to get older. If you are running any extra lights or other power using accessories it will really dim at stops when the bake lights &cooling fanare on & the engine is idling.

It sounds like a good time to install an on board voltmeter to monitor your charging voltage & battery condition. I have both a voltmeter installed & a home built LED monitoring system that glows a green LED light when above 13.5 volts & glows a red LED when below 12.5 volts.

Those 1200 charging systems are just not very powerful so leave a lot to be desired at low engine RPM's with lights & cooling fan running.

I have also raised the engine idle on my 1200 Wing to 1100 RPM's (1140 RPM after 1 hour of running) as that helps the idle charging rate slightly. I also don't sit with the brakes applied if at all possible.

Installing a voltmeter (even a temporary cheap digital multi-meter) will allow you to monitor your charging system output & see if it can keep up with your lights & other accessories.

At least with a voltmeter you will be able to see when (or if) you are starting to experience a low battery. Maybe it isn't the battery/charging part but just a starter starting to drag when hot.

Good Luck.

Twisty
 

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Hmmm. My lights would also dim when i hit the breaks. The stator was already hard wired. I found on mine the main fuse was a dull gray looking thing. After i replaced it with a auto type blade fuse it cured the problem. Don't know if it charges back through that fuse but if it does that could be some of the problem also.

Pat
 

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Discussion Starter #7
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thanks all for the replys. I don't have any extra lights
on the bike just the stock lights.
I think its just the long idle period with brakes applied
is what did it. Seeing how I only have had the bike a month
I don't know the age or condition of the battery. We know
dealers don't put new batterys in unles they are completly
dead. I think I will try with a new one and also will
install a voltmeter to keep an eye on the voltage.
Thanks again for the helpful responces. I think its more
then likly the normal old 1200 antic's and I'll put a new
battery in it and go from there....
 

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Man get one of them sealed type gell cellbatteries. I got mine with the bike and it is 6 years old and still going strong!!! it was not used in the last 4 years but it was put on a maintainer twice a month the whole time.

Here is a link http://www.westcobattery.com/battery_page.php?bid=16&vid=1&mid=69

Pat
 

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PatinIdaho wrote:
Man get one of them sealed type gell cellbatteries. I got mine with the bike and it is 6 years old and still going strong!!! it was not used in the last 4 years but it was put on a maintainer twice a month the whole time.
Pat, I have to agree with you on those sealed AGM (Glass Mat) batteries. I have been replacing the batteries on my own bikes with those AGM batteries as they go bad.

ThoseGlass Matt's have a lot to offer on a motorcycle, they store for many months without re-charging as their voltage loss to storage is way lower than the old lead acid batteries, their recovery time is very quick, best of all they don't have a vent tube so don't cover the battery trays & wire connectors with spewed battery acid.

I have been using those AGM batteries for about 5 years now & the only down side I can find is in theuse of a high charge rate battery charger, they don't like to behit with a heavy charge.



Twisty
 

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Can you reach the stator plug with it still on the bike? I'm having the exact same problem on my 1200. I'm not running any extra lights and it seems like after 2 days my battery needs charged. It will give me fits when i try to start it on the 2nd day but always eventually starts.
 

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condition of the stator,regulator and the solenoid connector can all effect the battery charge,if this is a normal occurence(type of riding) you do i would suggest changing out some of your bulbs to good led units,but leds bring there own set of problems with them to.....refer to past led posts for info
 

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You might want to also look for some type ofdrain on the battery when the ignition is in the off position. You would need to use a multimeter with a 10 amp setting on the meter. You would need to set the meter on the 10 amp setting and disconnect the positive leed from the battery. Put one leed from the meter to the battery and the other one the battery wire and then you can see what if any drain is on the battery with thekey in the off position. Hope this helps.
 

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You have all been very helpful. I found corrosion at the 3 pin plug last night after looking through the manual.
 

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Amen on the AGM batteries . You'd be a fool to keep buying lead acid old style type rags . I would check the health of your stator ( ac @ the3 yellow wires from the stator) hard wire or eleminate the plug and get an AGM battery .



Thats what I did to my LTD (well I had to replace the stator it was bad when I bought the bike three years ago) I used my bike in a furneral last summer stop and go it was hot fan running stopping and starting again . not one second of trouble



I do have an Oddesey battery and I elimated the dog bone fuse too :smiler:
 
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