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26 Posts
imported post
Updated 7-27-2005.
I knew the charging was bad, but I didn't know how bad it was until I rode 60 miles with the headlight on and the fan running. I pulled the headlight fuse, let her cool down, and there was just enough battery left for a leisurely crank and instant start. And I made it home, checking the voltmeter every 15 seconds or so.
I bit the bullet and remeasured the stator resistance; showed 0.6 ohms to ground on all windings! My mechanic ordered an Electro Sport stator for me: $170 delivered. I suppose I shouldbe overjoyed to experience removing the engine myself; the mechanic wanted $650. I think I have removed enough plastic and metal to build a small car, and filled my car and storage areas, but I'm getting close to getting the engine out.
Ifeared working on her with July warm temps of 95-100F with intense sunshine adding 20F. I finally figured out that a Patio Umbrella and Stand from WallyWorld would cost only $30. My friend in the condo complex dropped a cord so I can run my window fan. I wet my evaporative vest in cold water and I can work in reasonable comfort for 3-4 hours.
I won't complain about the bad stator; my trusty 1995 Buick alternator lasted 5 years in Minnesota and then 2 weeks in June here in Albuquerque. A guy who builds and sells car alternators gives a lifetime gurantee; I asked how long they lasted and he said about 2 years.
I have owned 6-8 V twins that never gave any trouble, and 2 V fours that never gave any trouble either. I think sheis punishing me for calling her a painted old ***** who takes my money and time and only hints at what she can do. 2 weeks ago I said Iwished fora Kawasaki Vulcan 800 (I swear I never thought Harley) due to good free warm weather comfort and better service accessibility.
Regards to everyone,
Bob Rust Albuquerque
I havea 1984 GL1200I purchased last December. The frame has 45,000 miles with a swapped in engine with 82,000 miles. I cleaned all connectors when I had the fairing off. The stator wires have been nicely soldered. I repaired the dreaded main fuse/starter solenoid connections.
I did a capacity test on the battery: I got 18 AH at a 2 A discharge rate. Pretty good.
I tested the charging system with 2 different loads at 0, 950, 3000, and 5000 rpm.
5-28,80F,engine warm,hi beam forload= 10A: Ibat=-10,3,8,6.Ialt=0,13,18,16
5-28,80Fengine warm,brake on load=16A:Ibat=-16,-4.5,5,3.5.Ialt=0,11.5,21,19.5
7-7,95F, engine warm, hi beam for load = 10A:Ibat=-10,-4,4,4.Ialt=0,6,14,14
Iload is the measured total current drain for the bike. Ibat is the measured current into the battery. Ialt is the calculated current output of the alternator/rectifier
Comments: the load current for the hi beam tests at 80F and 95F are equal 10A. The 80F charging is 8A but the 95F charging is only 4A at 3000 rpm. 80F alternator current is 18A but the 95F alternator current is only 14A.
Causes: I've read about the crappy wiring and poor connections. I ordered an EC harness because it looked high quality. It has to be hellish under the false tank and above the engine; I'd guess it is considerably above 125C.I was an electronic design engineer for 30 years, so I know electronic parts are not rugged.The rectifier / regulator module has power dissipation to further raise junction temperature. Diode leakage current increases with temperature.Commercial grade parts are only rated for 0-70C. Automotive grade is -35 to 125C, to my less than perfect recall.
I appreciate any comments or wisdom and experience.
Bob Rust Albuquerque, NM
Updated 7-27-2005.
I knew the charging was bad, but I didn't know how bad it was until I rode 60 miles with the headlight on and the fan running. I pulled the headlight fuse, let her cool down, and there was just enough battery left for a leisurely crank and instant start. And I made it home, checking the voltmeter every 15 seconds or so.
I bit the bullet and remeasured the stator resistance; showed 0.6 ohms to ground on all windings! My mechanic ordered an Electro Sport stator for me: $170 delivered. I suppose I shouldbe overjoyed to experience removing the engine myself; the mechanic wanted $650. I think I have removed enough plastic and metal to build a small car, and filled my car and storage areas, but I'm getting close to getting the engine out.
Ifeared working on her with July warm temps of 95-100F with intense sunshine adding 20F. I finally figured out that a Patio Umbrella and Stand from WallyWorld would cost only $30. My friend in the condo complex dropped a cord so I can run my window fan. I wet my evaporative vest in cold water and I can work in reasonable comfort for 3-4 hours.
I won't complain about the bad stator; my trusty 1995 Buick alternator lasted 5 years in Minnesota and then 2 weeks in June here in Albuquerque. A guy who builds and sells car alternators gives a lifetime gurantee; I asked how long they lasted and he said about 2 years.
I have owned 6-8 V twins that never gave any trouble, and 2 V fours that never gave any trouble either. I think sheis punishing me for calling her a painted old ***** who takes my money and time and only hints at what she can do. 2 weeks ago I said Iwished fora Kawasaki Vulcan 800 (I swear I never thought Harley) due to good free warm weather comfort and better service accessibility.
Regards to everyone,
Bob Rust Albuquerque
I havea 1984 GL1200I purchased last December. The frame has 45,000 miles with a swapped in engine with 82,000 miles. I cleaned all connectors when I had the fairing off. The stator wires have been nicely soldered. I repaired the dreaded main fuse/starter solenoid connections.
I did a capacity test on the battery: I got 18 AH at a 2 A discharge rate. Pretty good.
I tested the charging system with 2 different loads at 0, 950, 3000, and 5000 rpm.
5-28,80F,engine warm,hi beam forload= 10A: Ibat=-10,3,8,6.Ialt=0,13,18,16
5-28,80Fengine warm,brake on load=16A:Ibat=-16,-4.5,5,3.5.Ialt=0,11.5,21,19.5
7-7,95F, engine warm, hi beam for load = 10A:Ibat=-10,-4,4,4.Ialt=0,6,14,14
Iload is the measured total current drain for the bike. Ibat is the measured current into the battery. Ialt is the calculated current output of the alternator/rectifier
Comments: the load current for the hi beam tests at 80F and 95F are equal 10A. The 80F charging is 8A but the 95F charging is only 4A at 3000 rpm. 80F alternator current is 18A but the 95F alternator current is only 14A.
Causes: I've read about the crappy wiring and poor connections. I ordered an EC harness because it looked high quality. It has to be hellish under the false tank and above the engine; I'd guess it is considerably above 125C.I was an electronic design engineer for 30 years, so I know electronic parts are not rugged.The rectifier / regulator module has power dissipation to further raise junction temperature. Diode leakage current increases with temperature.Commercial grade parts are only rated for 0-70C. Automotive grade is -35 to 125C, to my less than perfect recall.
I appreciate any comments or wisdom and experience.
Bob Rust Albuquerque, NM