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I have a 1987 Honda Goldwing GL1200 and for some reason i have out a new battery and solenoid switch on the back, it crunk up and after we rode it. It wouldnot crank back without a battery charger on it. What could cause this to happen?
 

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Im assuming the operative word in your post is misspelled, instead of "OUT" you meant "PUT". So you put in a new Battery. Trust me, Im not one to pick on anyone's misspelling, lord knows I do a ton of them, but that's an important word.

Did you charge the battery fully before installing it?
 

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Vintage Rider
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First of all, why did you change the battery, what was the old battery doing or not doing? Second, I have to assume you mean the starter "relay" that little round device just to the right side (back) of the battery, the one that connects to the batteries positive terminal with a large cable, that clicks when you push the start button, then sends power from the battery to the starter. What was your reason for replacing it? What was it doing or not doing?

Since you have a 1200, they are known for charging system problems. Charge your battery completely with a charger, then, using a multimeter, check the voltage between the terminals. You should get 12V or maybe a tiny bit more. Now, put the battery back in the bike, make sure all the connections are tight, and the bike should start right up. Now check the voltage across the terminals at idle. You should still get 12V or a little more. Now rev the engine up to around 3000 rpm, and you should get close to 14 volts. If it is quite a bit less, you have a charging system problem. If so, post back. There are procedures for checking both the regulator and the stator.


One thing you can do first, id to locate where the three yellow stator wires come out of the engine, near the bottom, on the left side, near the back. They run upward, into a white plastic connector (if it is still there) Then you will need to remove the fake tank (it's easy, it only has 4 bolts) and check the other white connector at the regulator. It will be the one with 3 yellow wires, and several others, including red, green, and black. They will connect to a small rectangular box bolted to the frame. Check that connection and all the wires connected to it for burning, especially that white connector. If it looks ok, then unplug it and look inside for burned spots.
 

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It sounds like the battery is too low on charge to start the engine. How much volts is coming from your stator, did you get a meter on there to check yet?
 

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We have a red wire that goes to the stator seitch and when you reve it up it will show anywhere from 14-15 volts. the other battery was dead and would not charge so we had to change it. if the regulator is bad would that cause a problem. When you are holding one of the red/white wires with the bike running it will shock the crap out of you.
 

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The parts store we bought the battery from said tome that it was fully charged and it should not give any problems
 

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Not sure what you mean by red wire that goes to the stator ??? All three stator wires should be yellow. If you mean the voltage between the battery terminals is up to 15 volts, then your reading is wrong, or your regulator is bad. While there are wires that if touched together will cause a whopper of a spark, there shouldn't be anything there that will shock you, other than the spark plug wires. Sounds like the battery may be good, but something else is wrong. Unfortunately I cannot get a good picture of it by your description. Where is the wire that shocks you located?
 

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monkeymarie1985 wrote:
The parts store we bought the battery from said tome that it was fully charged and it should not give any problems
Take the battery back and have it tested. If they can't test it ask for your money back and go elsewhere.
 

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Right beside the battery. the little switch that goes beside the battery has I think four wires going to it, and when you connect one wire to the battery it will shock you. My husband was going to check and see if the altenator was working so he touched the wire to the battery terminal and when he went to remove it, it shocked him
 

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it is a red wire with a white strip that goes to the solenoid switch, if you reve the motor up it will go up to 14/15 volts and when you ground yourself it will give you a little tingle throw your fingers
 

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1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
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monkeymarie1985 wrote:
Right beside the battery. the little switch that goes beside the battery has I think four wires going to it, and when you connect one wire to the battery it will shock you. My husband was going to check and see if the altenator was working so he touched the wire to the battery terminal and when he went to remove it, it shocked him.
Ma'am, Welcome to the Site!!



As your husband found out, that's NOT the correct way to check the charging system output!!:shock:As was stated above he needs to get a multimeter and test the voltage at the battery with the engine running after making sure the battery is fully charged. At idle the voltage should be 13.5-14.0vdc. With the bike revved up to about 2000-3000rpm you should be getting 14.0-14.5vdc. If he's not getting this kinda voltage then there's a problem with the stator/regulator connectors burning of possibly a bad stator or regulator. Here's how to test the regulator. Please show this to your Hubby and most definitly, if he's got any more questions about how to correct this problem, just ask and we'll do our best to help out as alot of us have been down this road with our GL1200's also!!



Stator Test

1- First, put the bike on the centerstand. Cut the wires on both sides of the stator connector plug. Strip the insulation aprox. 1/2"-1" back on all three yellow wires. Label each wire A, B, and C.

2- With a multimeter, digital or analog, set to read resistance, check each leg to ground for short's. If no short's are found, (o resistance), you're good to go so far.

3- With the meter set to read resistance, check across each leg. A to B, B to C, then C to A. The reading's should be about 3 ohm's. If you read infinite resistance across any of the legs you have an open winding and the stator is bad. If they read good, keep going.

4- A helper is good to have for this next step. With the battery fully charged and the three yellow wire's separated so they cannot make contact, crank the bike. Have your helper rev the bike to 3000rpm after the bike warm's up.

IMPORTANT!!!

You are checking for AC voltage NOT DC voltage!! Make sure the meter is set to read a minimum of 120vac!!

With the bike at 3000rpm, check leg A to B. Note the voltage.

Then check leg B to C. Note the voltage.

Finaly check leg C to A. Note the voltage.

Compare the three readings. They should be between 50-70vac plus or minus about 5vac per leg. If they read good, chances are you've got a bad regulator.
 

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1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
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BTW, I just thought of something and have an extremly silly question but.... The acid WAS added to the battery before installation,, right??:shock::shock:
 

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roscoepc wrote:
BTW, I just thought of something and have an extremly silly question but.... The acid WAS added to the battery before installation,, right??:shock::shock:
Been there done that.:shock:
I tried to buy a battery at CambodianTyre and they handed me a dry battery. When I asked for it to be filled the young salesman spent 20 minutes in the back room only to come back and tell me they would have some in three days.
Needless to say I no longer do business there.:whip:
 

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Happy Goldwinger
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monkeymarie1985 wrote:
We have a red wire that goes to the stator seitch and when you reve it up it will show anywhere from 14-15 volts..
I guess "stator seitch" is the starter solenoid beside the battery. Did you try bypassing the solenoid to see if the starter motor turns over?
 

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My lights go dim when I use my brakes....I have learned so much just from reading a few posts.....you folks are AWESOME! thx:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
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