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Just a line that might help someone.
My 1986 GL1200 Interstate sprung a leak on the lower flex tube of the clutch hose. The OEM part has a centre rigid section and two flexes, one to the lever and one to the slave cylinder. The lower flex is crimped to the rigid so, a two part assembly. I could not get a replacement either in a timely manner or that was not as old as mine.
Plan A
To cut the lower hose off the rigid, re flare it and hunt up (or make) a short M10 Banjo x fitting hose to replace the leaker.
Plan B
Buy a 70" M10 banjo x M10 banjo flex stainless braid hose and replace the whole thing.

$25 dollars later and 5 hours labour I have a shiny new hose from lever to slave. It is a fiddle to do especially the clip below the coils but I was able to fit some of the OEM rubber protectors to the new hose to use the existing clips. I took some extra time to route the new hose inboard of the drive shaft which tidies up that area. My hose came with a protective spring on one (the lower) end and additional clear tube that I located at the headstock. It all looks neat and is a step up from bulgey old rubber. The 70" length is essential, there is nowhere to hide excess and important to follow the OEM route.

Good luck.
 

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Good job. I always thought it would be best and way easier to do that instead of trying to replace the OE hose.
 
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Just a line that might help someone.
My 1986 GL1200 Interstate sprung a leak on the lower flex tube of the clutch hose. The OEM part has a centre rigid section and two flexes, one to the lever and one to the slave cylinder. The lower flex is crimped to the rigid so, a two part assembly. I could not get a replacement either in a timely manner or that was not as old as mine.
Plan A
To cut the lower hose off the rigid, re flare it and hunt up (or make) a short M10 Banjo x fitting hose to replace the leaker.
Plan B
Buy a 70" M10 banjo x M10 banjo flex stainless braid hose and replace the whole thing.

$25 dollars later and 5 hours labour I have a shiny new hose from lever to slave. It is a fiddle to do especially the clip below the coils but I was able to fit some of the OEM rubber protectors to the new hose to use the existing clips. I took some extra time to route the new hose inboard of the drive shaft which tidies up that area. My hose came with a protective spring on one (the lower) end and additional clear tube that I located at the headstock. It all looks neat and is a step up from bulgey old rubber. The 70" length is essential, there is nowhere to hide excess and important to follow the OEM route.

Good luck.
If you don’t mind, where did you get the line from?
 

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Let me know what you come up with. Now I've seen the clutch line I realise the brakes can't be far behind!

If it is of use, the threaded ends are M10X1.0. I have not looked properly but the R front line goes to rigid at the yoke, I would prefer to go to the bar with banjo x banjo then it is all new and one less joint. I can't imagine how much deconstruction is needed for the rear!
 
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