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Well I am running into another problem with the bike during it's restoration. I am getting so close to finishing it I can taste it, but things just keep popping up. I thought all I needed was a new windshield, but that came in the mail and it does not fit. I am working with the company to see if they will take care of it, but we will see. My problem now is when I pull the clutch lever in, there is no resistance for the first half, and then it works like it should for the second half of the squeeze. If I kick it into gear, it really jumps and I have to use the brakes so it does not creep away on me. When it is up on the center stand, the wheel spins pretty fast, almost as fast as when I let go of the clutch lever. I have bled the line with almost a full bottle of fluid. During the bleed I seem to get bubbles continiously, but I could not tell if it was coming from the tube around the bleeder valve since I was using a hand vacumm pump or not. What do you all think? I appreciate the help!
 

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Sounds as though you still have air in the system. It's not the easiest system to bleed. I remember thinking I would never get all the air out but did eventually. Have you rebuilt the master and slave cylinders? The slave cylinder seal in particular seems to be the one that gives trouble first.
One tip is to tie the clutch lever back to within about 3/8" of the bars, turn the bars until the master cylinder is sitting at it's highest and leave it like that for at least 24 hours.
 

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no I have not done any rebuilding of any cylinders at this point, just trying to bleed the clutch. the bubbles I got out were uniform as they they were pulled through the tube via the vacuum. It was not like bubbles here and there when I have bled brakes before. Would it help bleeding them the old fashion way with the wife squeezing the clutch while I open and close the valve eliminating the the vacuum bleeder?
 

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Crack the clutch line loose at the res. and bleed it. Sounds like the res. has a air bubble catchin it.

Loosen the clutch line at the res.Then tighten it just enough so it will not leak when you pull the clutch handle. Now pull the clutch handle and then loosen the line. You will get air bubbles if there is air in the res. Tighten the line and let off the clutch handle. Now pull the handle again, you should have full pressure from the begining of the throw.





Kurt
 

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do i do this with the resevoir cap off?
 

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lookin4fish wrote:
do i do this with the resevoir cap off?
Yes, If your doing a fluid flush it will need to be open. That and you will need to keep refilling it. Just pull the clutch lever slowly in, hold it, bleed the line, tighten the lineand let it out the same way.

I bleed the clutch and the brakes the old school way. Pumping the brakes andcracking the bleeder loose. You can get speed bleeders and then all you have to do is pump the handle....and of course keep the res. full.



In you case your trying to get the pressure back at the lever. Bleed the res. line at the res. I think it will get pressure back. Then bleed the clutch slave cyn. if you want to flush the whole system.



BTW: this works for the brakes as well.!



Kurt
 

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so I went through the steps you described Kurt and this is what happened. When I first squeezed the clutch lever, fluid shot up like a fountain out of the res.. That was during the first half of the squeeze, then the second half of the squeeze there was resistance, but it did not shoot out at me, then I loosened the bolt connecting to the res., and fluid shot out around that bolt. I tightened it and released the clutch handle. I did that a couple of times and then cleaned up my mess. no change. I don't know if I did it right, or that means I need to do something further. I did start up the bike and kicked it into gear, and essentially, when I pull the clutch lever in, it does not slow the wheel down at all???
 

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Fluid will shoot out of the res. if you pull the clutch lever to quick. Thats why I said nice and slow.

If you did not get any air bubbles at the line, then it should be good. Bleed the slave cyn. Have someone pump the cltuch lever while you open the valve. Do this sevel times........make sure the res. don't go emtpy.



If your sure you got all the air out of the system then I would think the clutch fibers are burnt up. You may need to replace the clutch pack.


I re read your first post. I take it this bike has been sitting a long time??

It could be that the slave cyd. itself is some what frozen up.
Did the clutch feel like this every since you had the bike??


This is about the best any of us can do with out having the bike in front of us.


Kurt
 

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It was my dads bike, so i don't know much about it. I did ride it a few years back and I noticed that it jumped a bit when going into gear with the clutch pulled, but the clutch still did it's job. I would say I remember it kinda like it is but not to this extent. I will head out and manually bleed it and she how it goes. Thanks
 

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Well if your sure the air is out you have done what you can.

I would change the oil and filter and take her out for a ride when you can.

The Clutch fibers and rings runin the oil in the oil pan. Thats why it's called wet cltch system.

If the bike has not been ran ina long time the clutch fiberscan dry out. Taking her out for a ride mayfree them up.........it's a 50-50 shot in the dark.



Kurt
 

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lookin4fish wrote:
no I have not done any rebuilding of any cylinders at this point, just trying to bleed the clutch. the bubbles I got out were uniform as they they were pulled through the tube via the vacuum. It was not like bubbles here and there when I have bled brakes before. Would it help bleeding them the old fashion way with the wife squeezing the clutch while I open and close the valve eliminating the the vacuum bleeder?
The bubbles you're seeing when using the vacuum bleeder could be air being pulled through the threads of the bleed nipple.

In another post on this thread you say that you can pull the lever half way before any resistance is felt. You should be feeling resistance almost immediately which suggests that the pusher bushing in the lever maybe warn.
 

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https://www.speedbleeder.com/


I used these marvelous little buggers to take the pain out of bleeding. I strongly recommend a full set for your brakes as well as your clutch friend. For the 28.00+ shipping it will save you loads of time and be there forever in terms of future use.

Good luck and hope you can get her up and running soon,



RED
 

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I just did the manual bleed and I would say it improved it a little bit, but not to what I would thing it should be. It has sat for 4 years without running, so it would be great if riding would make it better. That i know I can do!! Well once I get it back together I will do just that. I was just concerned about the clutch not disengaging when I needed it to when I was out ridding. I do have all new filters and fluids on the bike that I did as part of this whole attempt to get the bike back on the road. Thanks for your help. If you have any other suggestions, I am open to anything!
Thanks!
 

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In response to you Ken, That is what I feel to. I feel it should have resistance the whole way, not just the last half. I can see where the clutch lever hits the "button"on the master, and it looks like it hits it the whole way and moves it, but the resistance is not felt till the last half of the pull. Is the bushing a replaceable part?
 

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lookin4fish wrote:
In response to you Ken, That is what I feel to. I feel it should have resistance the whole way, not just the last half. I can see where the clutch lever hits the "button"on the master, and it looks like it hits it the whole way and moves it, but the resistance is not felt till the last half of the pull. Is the bushing a replaceable part?
Yes it is, part #22885-MB0-006 and only about $10
 

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Gone14s wrote:
Crack the clutch line loose at the res. and bleed it. Sounds like the res. has a air bubble catchin it.

Loosen the clutch line at the res.Then tighten it just enough so it will not leak when you pull the clutch handle. Now pull the clutch handle and then loosen the line. You will get air bubbles if there is air in the res. Tighten the line and let off the clutch handle. Now pull the handle again, you should have full pressure from the begining of the throw.

Kurt,

You sound like the man on this, and I could use some advice too.

My clutch system needed new fluid (very old) so I bled it using a speed bleeder on the fitting onthe back of the engine.

All was going good, new fluid, no bubbles, so I decided to stop. Bone head that I am I gave the lever one last pull and sucked the last bit of fluid out of the master cylinder and a gulp of air with it.

Now I have no pressure on the clutch lever at all. Nothing! Won't even pump up!

I tried bleeding the clutch line at the master cylinder like you said, and got a little fluid out of there, tightened it back up and stopped. Still no pressure on the clutch lever, either with the bleed valve open or closed on the back of the engine.

Out of fluid for now, and out of curse words, so I'm forced to take a break.

No idea how to proceed. Can you suggest the next step?

Thanks for any help.
 

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Go to Harbour Freight and get the one man bleeder.It's only about $3.99 and sometimes it's only $1.99.I has a hose with it that put one of the plastic adapters in the end of the hose,then stick the adapter in the end of the bleeder screw.Leave the res cap on(keep check fluid when bleeding)but leave the cap on and close the bleeder when removing cap.The little bottle that's on the other end of the hose will catch the fluid.Bottle has a magnet on the side,stick it somewhere above the bleeder screw.Guarrenteed to work...try it!You can also get one at advance auto or autozone,Was $7.99(Called One Man Bleeder)
 

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WingMan71 wrote:
Gone14s wrote:
Crack the clutch line loose at the res. and bleed it. Sounds like the res. has a air bubble catchin it.

Loosen the clutch line at the res.Then tighten it just enough so it will not leak when you pull the clutch handle. Now pull the clutch handle and then loosen the line. You will get air bubbles if there is air in the res. Tighten the line and let off the clutch handle. Now pull the handle again, you should have full pressure from the begining of the throw.
Kurt,

You sound like the man on this, and I could use some advice too.

My clutch system needed new fluid (very old) so I bled it using a speed bleeder on the fitting onthe back of the engine.

All was going good, new fluid, no bubbles, so I decided to stop. Bone head that I am I gave the lever one last pull and sucked the last bit of fluid out of the master cylinder and a gulp of air with it.

Now I have no pressure on the clutch lever at all. Nothing! Won't even pump up!

I tried bleeding the clutch line at the master cylinder like you said, and got a little fluid out of there, tightened it back up and stopped. Still no pressure on the clutch lever, either with the bleed valve open or closed on the back of the engine.

Out of fluid for now, and out of curse words, so I'm forced to take a break.

No idea how to proceed. Can you suggest the next step?

Thanks for any help.
You may have to bleed the master cyn a few times to get air out. Your not going to get any pressure from the master until you bleed itout.
If there is air in the master you should getair bubble out right at the nut or bolt.
With the master res cap off look inside it (make sure it is full).Pull the clutch lever about 1/2 inch and releast it DO THIS SLOWLY! As you release the lever look for small air bubbles to raise to the top of the res. Keep doing it until there are no bubbles at all. I never leave a cap on the res. when bleeding the clutch or the brakes. This is do to the fact that if you run it dry while bleeding your going to have the problems that you two are having now.
If you had a lot of junk in the bottom of the res. and it has gotten into thefeeder holes then they may be blocked. Take a bread tie and strip the plastic off the wire about 3 inchs. stick the wire in the two holes to clean them. You wont have to go every far in. It may be your system was working until air got buy the plunger in the bottom of the res. and blocked the returnfluid hole.
The return fluid hole is the forward hole closes to the clutch line. It may have a small clip overit.remove the clip and clean the hole out.
Any air in the master will bleed out in the master threw this return hole. This is where you should see any air in the master raise from in the master.
If you want give me a PM with you phone number and I will walk you threw it.
Takes only a couple of min's to do.
 

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Thanks a million Kurt.

Will try your procedure in the morning. Out of both fluid and patience for today.

Best to start over fresh in the AM.
 
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