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I went to work today like every other day & the bike was fine. After workI run to Wally World (WW) & there was no problem. I go to leave WW & out of no where, the clutchstarted slipping. I'm roughly 18 miles from home with one more stop to make. I get out of WW parking lot & the clutch seems to take hold. I make my second stop and when I go to leave, it is slipping again. This time I go about 2-3 miles & I could only get up to 30mph. I have a line of cars behind me, I put off in to a subdivision. I stop the engine and pull the clutch lever in & let it go (so it snaps out) about a 1/2 dozen times. I start the engine & the bike takes right off without a problem. I get home without any other slippage.



About 6 weeks ago I put a speedbleeder on at the trans. I run a couple of cups of brake fluid through. I have never had a clutch problem before or after the fluid change until today. I have noticed that it doesn't take much contact on the clutch lever to disengage it. Even though this is a hydro clutch, is there some adjustment that can be made so it would disengage with more lever movement?



I'm planning an overnight roadtrip this Fri/Sat. The last thing I want to do is to get out in the middle of nowhere & get stranded. What would I look for?

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EDIT


I just went out for a quick test ride & there was no slipping. I stopped at the local High School parking lot. Testing the Friction Zone. From a fully retracted clutch lever, I need to release it roughly 60-70% before it starts to grab. At fully released position, there is about 1/4" of wobble (free play) before it starts to have any resistance. At that point, If I move the lever at all, the clutch starts to slip.



The bike has 38k miles & there is 2k miles on this Oil change.
 

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When you bleed you clutch, what brake fluid di you use? DOT 4, I hope. Sound like you got something in the clutch master cylinder not letting the fluid returnthru the master cylinder.
 

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ka4yqi wrote:
When you bleed you clutch, what brake fluid di you use? DOT 4, I hope. Sound like you got something in the clutch master cylinder not letting the fluid returnthru the master cylinder.
Yes, I did use DOT4. I might tryanother fluid change tomorrow.:?
 

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Quaker State 10-40. If this is Oil related, Then I would think thattheslippage would not "Come & GO".
 

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If the small return hole in the base of the clutch fluid reservoir is blocked, it will cause the clutch to slip.
 

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I rode it the 18.5 miles to work this morning, And there was not a problem.:action:

When I get home, I will do a fluid change & hope for the best this weekend.:?

After I shut it down for the season, I'll do a Clutch MC rebuild.
 

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Same problem could be had by either a dirty or broken clutch slave cylinder. Given the low (33k) miles on your bike, I'd suspect that it's dirty rather than broke.

The piston inside tends to crud-up, which then no longer transfers the motion of the clutch lever to the clutch itself. The crud will Not be removed via flushing the clutch fluid.

So then, if you have 2hrs, I'd suggest Cleaning it.... It removes with just 3 bolts... simply dis-assemble the few parts, clean them, and re-assemble. You could do this even without a manual. A rebuild kit is only about $20

Mine wore out at 100k; 130k
 

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Thank's for that info Alex. What are the chances of cleaning it without a kit? It's not that I don't want to do a kit, It is just that with my overnight trip on Friday, I doubt that I can get one ordered & in hand in time. I have a Service Manual so that's not a problem.
 

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galaxyhunter wrote:
..What are the chances of cleaning it without a kit? It's not that I don't want to do a kit, It is just that with my overnight trip on Friday, I doubt that I can get one ordered & in hand in time...
> I would ride it as-is, and rebuild once you get back.

> My concern about taking it apart is that you may find a broken seal (as shown in the pic I posted), in which case you can't get it back together again.

> Reuild kit available from Venco: http://www.vencowings.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=VWL&Product_Code=K%26L%3A32-0150&Category_Code=
> Also, the rebuilt kit does not contain all the parts that I've found actually wear out... eg Missing the following:
Item#15: OIL SEAL (8X25X8) 91204-MB0-013
Item#17: O-RING 91355-MG9-006
Item#18: PIN, DOWEL (8X14) 94301-08140



 

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Thank you Alex for the part numbers. The bike run fine coming home from work. I believe that I will take a chance & wait till Winter time to do this so that I won't be rushed trying to get it back together.
 

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Clutch slipping GL 1800 Changed oil, Rotellta T, no help. Worse hotter it gets. New to this type trans, clutch.
Bill42s,Flordia
 

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Welcome to the forum Bill42s
It sounds like this is a new bike to you? This is an old post and yes you have similar problem but we need more info from your bike.

What is the history of this bike? Was this a gradual happening or an instant, occasional like the original post above?
How long has this been happening? We need the bikes year, mileage, last oil used before the Rotella, period of sitting unused. Do you have the maintenance records on the bike!?

Has the dot4 fluid been changed yearly since new, 2 years at max? This has to be done regularly or gunk builds up and parts start sticking, same with the brakes. Is the fluid in the master cylinders dirty, brownish red? If not then the master cylinder and the slave cylinder will need proper cleaning and rebuild kits like said above as flushing alone will not remove the gunk causing the seals to leak and or the return port to clear.


If car oils with friction modifiers were used that will cause slipping and it will need a motor flush with 1 qt of marvel mystery oil, (drain out, suck out 1qt oil first) then ride 200-300 continuous mile ride lots of shifting, low rpms under 2500, then change the oil and filter with fresh Rotella or delo400LE 15w40.
 

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Welcome Bill. You should really post your own new thread about your problem, as this thread is old and relates to a GL1200.
 
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