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Going to do some reactionary maintenance and a little PM. I've had hard starting for a few weeks, I've gone through several handfulls of threads here and on other GW sites, and finding what I think I need to do, and I just want some "yeah, that sounds right."

1. I have the Honda Voltmeter, and sometimes the voltage drops and rises from ~12v to 13V to 14V... seems like I have a stator wire issue yes? and the soldering will fix. additionally, I read somewhere that I didn't bookmark that i can rewire the 3 yellow wires all the way INTO the R/R, so some kind of disassembly of the R/R?

2. My bike is hard to start, especially in the morning here in King City (25-35°)where I've been working for the past month, so I've found that it's likely to be voltage going to the coils, but being in the field haven't tested yet with a DMT, but it's a known issue, and it can only help, so using This Reference, I'm going to wire in a coil relay. But there's some doubt in my mind that the regulator rectifier may be going out, so I'm going to test according to the manual.

The symptom is that two cylinders aren't firing. I confirmed by feeling the headers while the bike was just started, warming up, and wasn't running right. Sounded like a twin, and only one of the two headers on each side was getting warm, ergo...

3. The starter relay is (I guess) 25 years old now, so I want to swap it out and go with a relay that doesn't cost 95$OEM. It seems according to this pic I can combine two wires, and have only two actually going to the relay, therefore allowing me to go to something that costs 25$ like this.
 

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Hi Beechum1,

1. There is no need to disassemble the Regulator. There is a connector just a short distance from it. Cut it out in the same manner as you do with the three yellow wires near the battery.

2. I am not a great believer in putting a relay in a circuit just to switch something that is already switched somewhere else. It is just another point of potential failure and part of it is mechanical. It won't deliver any higher voltage or current to the load.

Try running the engine in a dark garage and look for fireworks around the coils, high tension wires, and the spark plug boots. You may have one bad coil. They do fail. I had one that was cracked lengthwise. Am obvious problem.

3. If it ain't broke don't fix it. If the solenoid is working leave it there. I'm 3 times as old as that starter solenoid and I'm still working pretty well. They say the mind is the first to go but I can't remember what goes next.
 

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lyleapgmc wrote:
Hi Beechum1,

They say the mind is the first to go but I can't remember what goes next.

The mind is the first thing to go. The second thing to go is the mind..........:byebye:


Ditto and Harrumph on the coil relay. There is no ballast, and the coils fire correctly @ 9.6 volts.

What was the third question?
 

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Your hard starting could be moisture getting into the plug wires. Get new plug wire and NGK spark plug caps. Oceanside Cycle has them for @ $30 total.
Where in San Diego are you?
 

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You could wire in a coil relay and it might help if there is a weakness in the system causing them to get low voltage but you could first try running a jumper to them directly from the battery to see if it will help. I wired a relay on an 1100 I built to run everything except the ignition which is still ran off the ignition switch and if the relay fails it will still run and it gets a better power feed to the coils because it is not sharing power with everything else.
I wouldn't worry about the solenoid unless it fails. You can easily short it with a screwdriver to get started if it does.
 

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A weak battery will also give the same symptons as hard start and varing voltage. Test the stator output, minimum is 55 VAC at 2000rpm accross all three yellow wires, 1&2, 1&3 and 2&3. For the misfire, check the coil resistance when warm at the plug under the false tank, left side. Also check the resistance of the pulse generators, plug is located on the left side plug rack under the false tank.
 
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