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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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I just got back from the junk yard. picked up some pulleys and a 94 geo metro alternator, stopped @ autozone, checked it out. all good. now to tear down the bike and start the modifications! will post pictures of the progress. i expect to have it done by the end of the weekend. so far less than $60 spent.

Barry
 

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Pictures ......... or it didn't happen.......

Step by step pictures .......... or someone did this for you.........

it's true ya know......

Good luck and keep us posted!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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Well, spent many hours working on this project yesterday, I think there was more @ ace, autozone, homedepot etc. the big problem i faced was the pulley, and being a sunday i had few options. so in the end i found a steel idler pulley, @ 3 inches. popped the bearing and fabricated a centerpiece. I also fabbed a center post with a keyway to fit in center keyway, and also a lip for the belt shield. I modified a piece of the fairing bracket to make room. also cleaned up the alternator and cut off the rear tab. I believe i will be able to use the adjuster that was on the alternator with a bracket. today i will finish the pulley, cut the hole in the covers, mount the alternator, and be done! (I HOPE) :praying:
following are pics:

this is the idler i chose:


here is the Center that I fabd from a 12mm nut and 2 washers:


here is the centerpiece welded in:


My bike just waiting anxiously!


here is the alternator and some pulleys i grabbed from the junk yard. they were too big.




Here is the alternator in a bag for protection from metal bits: after i cut off the rear mounting flange.




I will post more pics as i go.

Barry
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
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UPDATE!
today I took the wing out for it's maiden voyage on my custom alternator install.
after 80 miles I was very happy. I could actually listen to the radio again! and I got home with a full battery for the very first time!. it actually ran better as well. minor issues to address before putting the plastic back on.
1. my custom crank pulley is a bit off, and so i get low rpm vibration. (pretty good considering i didn't machine it!)
2. need to cut out the holes in the timing belt covers.

I am also going to put a relay on the coils to get a more direct power to the coils.
and rearrange the wiring a bit for future addons.

Pictures of all of the steps tomorrow. :claps:

Barry
 

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Look forward to them Barry. Good show.
 

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CrystalPistol wrote:
What happened to the pictures?
See bottom of 5th post.
That would be sometime today. If he has time.
 

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newday777 wrote:
CrystalPistol wrote:
What happened to the pictures?
See bottom of 5th post.
That would be sometime today. If he has time.
Oh, I saw that :thumbsup:..... it's that 3rd post of the thread I was referring too ;)..... one with a lot of "dead pics" :praying:..... them white boxes with red "exxes" in them? :?
 

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Yeah, the pics didn't come up for me either.

Bobby
 

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That post was edited 10 days ago, possibly to remove the pictures.
If you're still seeing the broken links refresh your browser.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
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Another 80 miles yesterday, machined down the center pulley, almost all vibration gone. going to do a bit more on the pulley, also going to mount an end connection to my fabricated frame to have it connect as a stabilizer against the crash bar, as i don't feel it is secure enough on lateral movement. my thoughts are that they designed with the rear bolt mount for a reason, and for me to grind it off and not compensate could lead to a failure of some sort.
Sorry about the images, they worked for a while, I must have posted them wrong. I will try to educate myself on posting images today and repost, as well as post new ones.

Overall I would definitely do this again, it has cost me more time than money, the only things i have noted are: my idle is down just a little, and i can get it to squeel just a bit on cold starts with a quick wot, no real negatives. AND i didn't have to pull the engine!

Barry
 

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First off Good job! My GL1200 stator failed when the engine was pulled to replace it,we found the screws had backed out.so you wouldnt want to do a poor boy swap and just leave the metal to metal contact going on inside your engine.Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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Saws, that has been kicking around in the back of my mind, my intention was to pull the stator when i need to do some type of maintenance inside... but now i may do sooner. thanks for the heads-up
Barry
 

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Im not sure how you could check it while the engine is in the bike,or if you could tell at all untill you pull the back cover off.
 
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