[Skydive1963]

Hi All, i published this in the Trikes forum so thought maybe it belongs in here my bad

Hi All and thank you for letting me join,
I have a GL1200 trike that had been stood for 2 years, had her about 2 months, last week i fitted a new starter motor, new battery, new fuel pump and fuel filter, drained most of the old fuel off and half filled the tank with nice clean "expensive these days" fuel.
She fired up first time and ran like a dream for about 4 hours then cut out, would just turn over and me being me flattened the battery, charged her back up and then only got a click from the starter relay so swapped that out but no change,
Replaced the dog bone fuse with an inline one still nothing (some sites say there are 2 but could only find 1 next to the battery).
Now i get clicking from the starter relay and relay 5 fuel pump relay in the main fuse box (very fast), i also get all lights flashing at the ECU under the trunk?, my thoughts are either the ECU has burnt out or an earth somewhere? oh and when i put her into run the fuel pump just keeps going and going does not cut off, any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Steve

 

[DaveO430]

The ECU will have nothing to do with the starter not working. Either you burned out the starter or the battery is shot. I suspect the fuel pump relay is stuck.

 

[Skydive1963]

The ECU will have nothing to do with the starter not working. Either you burned out the starter or the battery is shot. I suspect the fuel pump relay is stuck.

Thanks Dave it is a brand new pump was working great last week plus a new battery is the starter relay on the fuse box the same rating as all the others there?

 

[DaveO430]

Thanks Dave it is a brand new pump was working great last week plus a new battery is the starter relay on the fuse box the same rating as all the others there?

I didn't say pump, fuel pump RELAY.

 

[Skydive1963]

I didn't say pump, fuel pump RELAY.

Oops sorry, yes new relay fitted as well, it is the smaller relays in the fuse box, bought a spare fuse box with all relays, when i swap them out some when put in the fuel pump 1 (No 5) click and the pump runs none stop, others the pump does not run but the good thing is the ECU does not go mad with 5 lights either when the pump is not running, thanks for your help, Steve

 

[SMEDEN(=the blacksmith)]

Oops sorry, yes new relay fitted as well, it is the smaller relays in the fuse box, bought a spare fuse box with all relays, when i swap them out some when put in the fuel pump 1 (No 5) click and the pump runs none stop, others the pump does not run but the good thing is the ECU does not go mad with 5 lights either when the pump is not running, thanks for your help, Steve

Be careful not to replace a NO relay with an NC relay or vice versa

 

[Skydive1963]

Be careful not to replace a NO relay with an NC relay or vice versa

TY, I have only been playing with the relays in the main fuse box, i presume they are all the same all Omron G4MS-H17 12V, just different numbers underneath for example 2094D9 or 1774D9

 

[Skydive1963]

 

[Skydive1963]

This is the fuse box where i hear loud clicking, have loads of spare relays but even swapping them out still get the same constant clicking plus all the lights on the ECU are clicking in tandum and the fuel pump runs constantly, next pic is of the 2 relays that click No4 CFI Main and no5 Fuel pump

 

[Skydive1963]

 

[DaveO430]

Maybe one of the guys with more experience with that bike have some ideas. Only thing I can think of is a bad ground or other loose connection somewhere.

 

[Skydive1963]

Maybe one of the guys with more experience with that bike have some ideas. Only thing I can think of is a bad ground or other loose connection somewhere.

Thanks i agree must be an earth somewhere, was running like a dream then got hot or warmed up cut out and back to the begining, i will find it

 

[roscoepc]

Just a silly question here but, Have you loosened the Banjo bolt on the output side of the fuel pump just to verify it's actually pumping fuel?? Taking this one step further, try loosening the banjo bolt on the output side of the fuel filter and checking for flow there also??

Just wondering....

 

[Skydive1963]

Just a silly question here but, Have you loosened the Banjo bolt on the output side of the fuel pump just to verify it's actually pumping fuel?? Taking this one step further, try loosening the banjo bolt on the output side of the fuel filter and checking for flow there also??

Just wondering....

Thanks, yes fuel flows throw filled a bucket LOL cost a fortune, but re reading i was doing that on the pump side not the filter, will check that tomorrow TY, Steve

 

[Rednaxs60]

Good pictures, but wwhat are all those extra wires in the pics? Where are they connected and what are these for?

Connecting accessory wires to the wrong circuits can cause things to happen.

Point in case, had a similar issue. I have a side stand relay safety switch installed, same switch as on the 1800/1500 GW. Bad switch and because it was connected into the start circuit, when the switch went bad, had an issue with the CFI relay clicking as well. Found the issue by accident in that the side stand safety switch started to smoke. Made sure the wiring was correct, replaced the side stand safety switch and all was well.

It has been mentioned on other forums threads, that the best practice when you get a new to you mtorcycle that has additional accessories, disconnect the wiring from the OEM harness. This removes items that can complicate the troubleshooting process,especially with these FI models. I recommend this for these FI models.

Once you do this, and hopefully the issue will be rectified, I recommend adding an accessory fuse block controlled by a relay. You can mount the fuse block in the rear trunk. The fuse block should be an integrated power/ground fuse block, makes life simpler.

Having mentioned the above, disconnect every addition that has been added, then see what happens. Too many extra wires in your pictures.

Here's a picture of the wiring nightmare I created, worked but didn't look good:

Here are a couple of pics of the wiring cleaned up:

Other than the side stand safety switch that had to be tied into the OEM wiring, all other wiring for the additions I have added including the external alt mod, are separate from the OEM wiring harness, except for the trigger wires to the 2 relays that powers the relays. I also use a wire cover so I know which circuits are additions. To keep the ground wiring separate as well, I decided to use yellow wire as the ground wire for my additional wiring. You can see the red/black wire weave.

 

[Bryanlj]

Just a thought check the resistance on the pulse coils, they can go bad with heat and sometimes come back, sometimes not.
2 different places on 1200, one at front of engine, one at back depending on model, not sure if spec is different for each

 

[Skydive1963]

Just a thought check the resistance on the pulse coils, they can go bad with heat and sometimes come back, sometimes not.
2 different places on 1200, one at front of engine, one at back depending on model, not sure if spec is different for each

Thank you will take a look when i get off work

 

[Rednaxs60]

The FI model is different then the carb models.

The Ns sensor (crank poition sensor on the crank under the timing belt covers). The trigger wheel has 8 teeth:

The other two sensors are located on the rear of the right side cylinder head - Gr/Gl sensors for injector timing. The motor will not start if the Ns sensor is faulty, ECU does not know where the crank position is. The engine will operate with either the Gr or the Gl sensor faulty, but not with both faulty:

Theses sensors are quite robust. You would not get the symptoms being mentioned from these sensors being faulty.

 

[Skydive1963]

The FI model is different then the carb models.

The Ns sensor (crank poition sensor on the crank under the timing belt covers). The trigger wheel has 8 teeth:

View attachment 329243

The other two sensors are located on the rear of the right side cylinder head - Gr/Gl sensors for injector timing. The motor will not start if the Ns sensor is faulty, ECU does not know where the crank position is. The engine will operate with either the Gr or the Gl sensor faulty, but not with both faulty:

View attachment 329244

Theses sensors are quite robust. You would not get the symptoms being mentioned from these sensors being faulty.

Thank you as always, will check all these and feed back, Steve

 

[Bryanlj]

The sensors are robust BUT they are also old and some will fail, could have a bad wire or connector, or break in potted coil.
I chased bad starting on a 1500 for 3 months till one of the pulse coils failed totally