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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was changing break fluid cleaning the masters and return ports. I did the clutch too nasty in there but clean now. Pulled the battery put electrolyte in it and I saw this.

What do I need to do about it??? What is it the power regulator?

Can you see the problem?

I don't like the looks of this.

Any help would be great.
 

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Anti-Guru
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oh that does look nasty...

... the 30A fuse seems to be the "correct" rating.

Looking at the heat pattern, I'd be forced to say that the "heat" is related to drawing through contamination resistance on either the fuse terminal or the connector for the 'brown wire" that's so badly baked.

In these larger current connections, even a little resistance will cause the pins of the connectors to heat quite nicely... Power (heating) at that connector would be current squared multiplied by any resistance, so, even at 15amps (just half the fuse rating), if you had a quarter-ohm of contamination you'd have about 55-Watt heating element for a connector pin

(Yikes!! :shock: )

Could be that a little battery outgassing helped to creae a little corrosion on the conenction itself, but that'd be anyone's guess.
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So the connectors need to be clean and made fast (tight).

Should I remove the plug and solder the connections?
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Could you elaborate on the fix a little?
 

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Premium Member
1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
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3,527 Posts
Could you elaborate on the fix a little?

Sure! The 2 front red/red/white wire's are from the regulator and both feed into the right side of the fuse. I simply clipped both, stripped them back about and inch or so and twisted them together with the stripped end of a 30amp in-line fuse holder. I then soldered/heat shrink wrapped the splice. On the other end I used an appropriatly sized round end crimp connector. I cut the insulation off the crimp connector so I could apply solder to the crimp and then heat shrink insulated the crimp. After installing the connector on the battery, (positive), side of the selinoid I haven't had a problem since.

With that one....

Fuelies however have a 2nd 30amp "sub-main" fuse that I replaced and one of the connector's in the housing went bad on me so instead of staying with the regular size holder, I went with the Maxi fuse holder with 10ga wire. Overkill?? Maybe, but I'm still gonna replace the fuse holder you see in the picture with the Maxi fuse holder.

Just to be sure......
 

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Just Winging It
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3,327 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok I'll take a close look at mine 1 or 2 fuses and pick those inline fuse holders up in town or should I order them online? Just looked online found this

Model 270-1234
Use this inline blade-type fuse holder to protect your after-market automotive accessories. Rated to 30 amps. Accepts 10-gauge wire.
  • Inline, blade-type fuse holder rated to 30 amps
  • Accepts 10-gauge wire
30-Amp Inline Blade-Type Fuse Holder

Model: 270-1234

| Catalog #: 270-1234
$1.97
Do you think this one will work for me?

Recap:
1-2 30 amp inline fuse holder
1 appropriate size round end crimp connector (radio shack should have?)
I have solder and shrink tube and I even know how to use them.
 

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Premium Member
1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
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If you have carburators you only have the 1, 30amp main fuse. and as I said, I tried the Radio Shack fuse holders and 1 out of 2 didn't last so I'm going with the Maxi spade type fuse holder. You can get one at NAPA, Autozone, etc.....
 

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Just Winging It
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3,327 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks Don
Do you think the auto places will have that round end crimp connector also?
Carburetors that's what I got.
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
cool I'll post Pics and let ya'll know how it goes. couple days from now.
 

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instead of connecting the one end of the round eyelet terminal to the battery you can connect it to the battery side terminal of the solenoid,saves the heartache when taking off and putting on the battery cable
roscoe's recc of using a maxi-fuse holder has merit since its more robust and seems that most of the 30 amp fuseholder are prone to overheat because they wont hold the fuse tight and end up doing exactly what the solenoid connector cable does,especially the cheap ones

the round end terminals are normally yellow covered and are rated for 10 gauge wire
 

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Premium Member
1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
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instead of connecting the one end of the round eyelet terminal to the battery you can connect it to the battery side terminal of the solenoid,saves the heartache when taking off and putting on the battery cable
Re-read my post Earl.. That's exactly where I told him to connect it... :cool:
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
After looking at the diagram and at the wires that is exactly what I was thinking also hook the fuse to two hots and the solenoid solder, cover, tuck away, done. fire hazard averted for now.

Sure would hate to have a melt down out on the road, people would think Im just as crazy as I am. and that couldn't be good.
 

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It aint rocket science
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3,966 Posts
If you have carburators you only have the 1, 30amp main fuse. and as I said, I tried the Radio Shack fuse holders and 1 out of 2 didn't last so I'm going with the Maxi spade type fuse holder. You can get one at NAPA, Autozone, etc.....
The Maxi Fuse are used in HD trucks and is an excellent choice including the dog bone fuse substitution. Have a spare on hand as not everyplace will stock them.
 

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Premium Member
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23 Posts
wire repair

I like to use non-insulated connectors and heat shrink. To help reduce corrosion solder all connectors. Then I use copper anti-sieze which plates, water-proofs and enhances eletrictal connections.

I like the copper anti-sieze instead of the silicone dielectric. Use the copper on battery terminals and all ground lugs. Haven't had any corrosion problems since.
 

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Just Winging It
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3,327 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I like to use non-insulated connectors and heat shrink. To help reduce corrosion solder all connectors. Then I use copper anti-sieze which plates, water-proofs and enhances eletrictal connections.

I like the copper anti-sieze instead of the silicone dielectric. Use the copper on battery terminals and all ground lugs. Haven't had any corrosion problems since.
good idea
 
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