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Following a Topic I posted for "Rear Wheel Noise GL1200" Itook the suggestion of several fellow wingers and replaced both my rear wheel bearing and had oneopenings re-machined to fit a slightly bigger one. There is no more play in the wheel:clapper:, however I still have a rumble sound when I run the bike in gear on the stand. I now suspect there is something wrong with the drive line. After reading several other topics, I am a bit confused...some saymost gl1200 do eminate gear noise from the drive line. Should I take the drive out and verify it?. I would also like to know how to inspect the universal joint...I cant get at it from the booth. My Haynes manual make a lousy referral to this topic!

Thanks for your advice!:)

Gilles (Midnight Frog)
 

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A worn UJ won't rumble, it will sound like a clunk as you take up the slack in the drive (taking off from standstill, sudden acceleration etc). A rumble would be more likely a worn bearing. As you have replaced the wheel bearings it only leaves the differential bearings, there are two big ones in the diff unit. The workshop manuals say the diff is not repairable but i nfact it is very easy to open up and replace the bearings. I guess you proabably already changed the diff oil, so you can rule out low oil.
 

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Gilles, a rumbling noise is almost certainly a worn bearing. As Joe says, you've ruled out the wheel bearings as new ones are now installed. The diff bearings are very big and will rumble fairly loudly when they wear enough.
I know you can get those diff bearings from a beaing supplier instead of paying Honda big money, I gave the wingnut a hand overhauling a 1200 diff once and the bearings were about a third of the price of Honda ones. Don't remember the part numbers though, you will get them off the old bearings anyway.
 

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Thanks Joe and Paul...By the way:?, I have not yet changed the oil in the differential. I was about to do the job tonight. Any particular oil other than it being SAE 80? Should I put a bit more as advised by so many wingers? If so how much more?

If the oil dosn't do the job I will then take my differential appart to change it'sbearing and to verify the gears. Will I need new gaskets, special toolsor O-rings for the job?

Yours truly
:D
Gilles (Midnight Frog)
 

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Before you re-build the final drive, may I suggest looking at the exposed splines in the drive housing? Since the wheel bearings were toast, it is possible that the slop in the rear wheel may have caused the teeth of the drive splines to be off center and damaged the leading edge of the teeth. It's a quick visual inspection that won't cost anything. If the teeth are worn or damaged, then the drive unit should be replaced. Also, inspect the splines for the correct amount of grease... They might be too dry.. Good luck...
 

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Midnight Frog wrote:
Thanks Joe and Paul...By the way:?, I have not yet changed the oil in the differential. I was about to do the job tonight. Any particular oil other than it being SAE 80? Should I put a bit more as advised by so many wingers? If so how much more?

:D
Gilles (Midnight Frog)
Just my opinion but I don't think over filling very much helps. I fill mine on the side stand to get a little bit more in but if you over do it you'll find it coming out the vent and slobbering all over the place. SAE80,SAE80-90either will do. I like AMSOIL synthetic gear oil but don't want to start that discussion up again!:goofygrin:
 

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Hi Gilles,

with your bike on the mainstand, running in gear with no load will always make a sort of rumbling noise. The swing arm will be fully extended and so will the U/J, the bigger the angle the less efficient is the U/J which will become noisier as the angle increases.

With the bike on the road try coasting down a hill with the engine off then see how bad the noise is.
 

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Thanks Johno:)

The explanation makes good sense, I will try this tomorrow if it dosn't start snowing!Gilles (Midnight Frog)
 
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