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I have basicly not front shock pressure, no leaks seen, from what I have been reading the oil is probably bad so, I am wanting to change the oil. I think I know how to do it all except for putting the fork caps back on with the spring pressure, is there any tips and tricks that you guys can give me

I have a set of \f 416's coming tomorrow and it seems pretty straight forward for installing them

Any help would be appreciated

GOD Bless,
jerry
 

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The item of most concern is to make sure the fork cap doesn't fly up at you and hit you in the face for the fork springs.
Do one side at a time plus suport the bike with a floor jack or blocks under the engine.

I ty a rag to some mechanic's wire then clean the fork tubes out to get the dirt out as best as possible.
Some riders pull the plug from the bottom and flush the forks with varsol or other cleaner to flush the tubes and legs.
I personally like to remove the front wheel then I can pump the fork leg up and down the tube to really clean out the forks of old oil. This ensures a good oil change for the forks

Happy wrenching!:waving:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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Thanks for the reply, I have never had the front wheel off, is it easy, and what about reinstalling, does it align back to where is should be

GOD Bless,
jerry
 

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take a 2x4.... drill a hole for your 1/2" drive extension... have your helper apply downward pressure on the 2x4 while you turn the ratchet. Just be careful to seat the threads carefully as they are very fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
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Sorry, cant picture it completely, how big is the whole, is it just big enough for the 1/2 extension if so how can the socket turn when force in pushing down by the 2x4

:blushing:
 

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just big enough for the extension to slide into the hole.... the socket is larger so the wood will be pressing it and the cap downwards.... the ratchet will easily turn the exetension that is in the hole.....
 

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jar wrote:
Thanks for the reply, I have never had the front wheel off, is it easy, and what about reinstalling, does it align back to where is should be

GOD Bless,
jerry
Hey there Jerry,


With the gl1200, they use a spring clip to help align the fork tubes in the triple tree.

It would be best to consult the manual for a job like this since it involves troque specs

Give it a good review before starting & have the proper tools to do the job.

It will save a lot grief if something gets over tightened which is too easy to do...
 

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Hi Jerry,

Are the 416s are new springs?

Putting that cap back on is a bear, but from the looks of your picture I think you will be OK. Just sit on the bike and use your weight to force the cap into place. Just don't strip those threads.

As others have said, get the wheel off the ground before you start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
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Yes, the 416 are new, bought them from bike bandit with a price match that I found. I think I can handle the front forks, it makes sense now, I am a bit slow sometimes, if not, I know where to find the answers I need.

GOD Bless you guys and gals

jerry
 

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for me ,I have tried every trick in the book on screwing on the fork caps, the only thing that works is removing the for tubes, and placing them in a vise, then you can apply downward pressure to install them, the front forks are eaiser than you think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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hopefully the 2x4 tip will work out so I dont have to take off the forks
 

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If you have a problem putting the cap on ,pull your windshield off. It sounds wrong but depending on how you can get leverage you might need to take it off to get the right angle to push on the cap.
 

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I used my brute force by myself to get the caps back on after I put progressive springs in. It took a couple tries, but I got them on with no problem. I used a 1/2 drive set to put the caps back on.

I have seen a few jigs used to get the cap back on, but the time involved to remove the tubes from the tree was far too long compared to bruting the caps back on. It took me about 3 minutes each cap to get screwed back on after the springs were in. It would have taken much longer to get the tubes off and back on as well as building the rig for the caps. If you like to tinker, then the jig is the way to go. I was looking at time required since I don't have much of that any more. :)
 

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To replace oil on GL1200 drain oil from forks first.This done by holding front brake andpushing bikeup and down. With drain plug removed from bottom tubes.After draning replace plugs. Then remove air inlets at top of trees. I then screw in a metalpipethat fits the threads. Over themetal pipe place a rubber hose that fits very tightly. On other end of hose insert hand held oil squirt can. These can be bought at any hardware store. Pump in the correct amount of oil to each tube. Replace the air inlet fittings and down the road you go. No fighting the springs and it keeps my cursing to a low volume.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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I believe I only have one air inlet which is on the right side, you are saying there is one on the left side also?
 

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Using anything that obstructs your vision when putting the caps back on is just asking for cross threading. It really isn't that hard just maintain a steady pressure when screwing them back on.
AND it makes it a lot easier to add the fluid. A small wooden dipstick works well for measuring the fluid level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
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I will have to look closer,
So, if you pump the oil out using the rocking motion, do you just put the amount of oil that came out or do you put in what is spec'ed on an oil refill, dont want to add to much
 

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Replace with oil by manual specs. I believe there is two different amount to add. One for complete overhaul and one for simply replacing fluid levels. Better check your manual because I could be wrong. I have senior moments from time to time LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
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dont mean to be a pain but, my concern is how do I know I got all the oil out when I drain it
 
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