Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy ALL! I'm slowly bringing my virtually new 1985 Aspencade back to life after being stored for extended periods. Unclogged the fuel system and carbs, bled the rear brakes, finishing up bleeding the clutch.

Now, I'm about to tackle leaking front fork seals. Not sure the extent to which a rebuild is needed, but the leaking is sufficient that it has soaked the left front rotor and caliper; probably ruined the brake pads.

Anyway, I'd appreciate any wisdom regarding this job and, especially the best source for whatever I'm going to need. Are there COMPLETE kits? At this point I don't know WHAT I need. I DO have a Clymer manual which has served me well.

Thanks.

Ed
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
653 Posts
the seals are available. A quick search revealed that Bike Bandit has what you need...
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmo...old-wing-aspencade-gl1200a/o/m151705#sch23245

I have no doubts that there are MANY other sources as well...

That said, you will want to also check the "slider bushings/guides". These are the wear-surface bushings inside the forks that the tube rides agains, and there is a good chance yours may be worn. IF they are and you do not replace them, you should expect any new seals to fail and begin leaking in fairly short order...

Hope this helps...;)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
you only need the oil and dust seals.

here is what you need

Honda Part Number: 51490-MN8-305 - SEAL SET, FR. FORK

you need to order two of those.

it is number 39 here http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1985/GL1200I+A/FRONT+FORK/parts.html

i've bought from them and have a great service
What about bushings/sliders as ob1jeeper mentioned. I'll probably get those anyway. What else MIGHT I need? I only want to do this job once.

Are you really in Tampico, Mexico?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bump. Aside from a seal kit and bushings/guides, is there anything else I might need? This bike only has 19,000 original miles and is only guilty of long-term storage on multiple occasions. Always garaged.
 

·
Premium Member
1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
Joined
·
3,527 Posts
Just for grins and giggles, I'd change the fork oil out. You can use ATF to replace it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Follow-up Questions

I'm bringing this back to the top to ask a couple of questions...

I received my seal kit and bushings from Bike Bandit. I'm starting the process of removing the forks. As a reminder, my bike is a 1985 Aspencade.

My Clymer manual indicates that I need to remove the seat and Top Cover. I interpret that the Top Cover is the phony gas tank, and maybe the top side compartments.

As I look at the forks from the top, I don't see WHY I would have to remove the Top Cover. What am I missing?

Also, it appears that with the Aspencade I relieve fork air pressure using the compressor buttons and otherwise remove the forks in one piece AND THEN drain the fluid. Am I following this correctly?

Thanks.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
456 Posts
No need to remove the top shelter. The hardest part is there's very little clearance to get at the bottem bracket allen bolts with 6mm heads. I use a 'shorty' socket or you can cut off a regular L shaped allen key. It's not a bad idea to break the top fork bolts loose before you loosen the triple clamps. I remove the forks separately as an ass'y before I do any other work to them.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,295 Posts
Hey

This might help you with the draining of the forks. Even though this is an 1100, the idea is the same.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...49061-1982-aspencade-progressive-install.html

When I did my seals I left the forks on the bike as many people do. It sure helps. I have seen what happens to forks that have been put into a vice to be worked on. One slip and cha ching!!! You have to find new one. Very unforgiving.

Tim.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
802 Posts
No one has mentioned about your brake pads, unless I missed it. Yes those left side pads are toast. Get new ones. Degrease your rotor with brake cleaner. Also wouldn't hurt to scuff up the rotor with some 80 grit or as course sand paper as you have. That scuffing will help the new pads seat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
It's weird because I'm going through the EXACT same problem!

I have a thread somewhere about it. Same thing happened to my 86 interstate. Left fork seal leaked out and soaked my left caliper. I went a little beyond what most people would probably do. Mine has 92K on the odometer so I ordered the seals and bushings in both forks and the seals in the TRAC box at the bottom of the forks. I also ordered all the seals in both calipers and the bushings, slide pin boots. All had to be ordered piece by piece at the parts counter. I can upload a picture of the invoice if you want. It's not cheap. I think it was about $160 w/new pads too which you have to order 2 sets. :/
I got a 20% discount too because I work at a Honda car dealer as a tech but I still feel like I got the shaft.

EDIT,
I didn't leave the upper fork tubes in the bike. It's really not hard to remove once the wheel and fender are off. I used a regular 3/8 ratchet and a regular 6mm allen socket from sears. Turn the bars if you need more room. Just loosen the pinch bolts. Twist slightly and pull down a little. Then once you clear the upper triple tree hole reach up and pull the little metal clip off the fork so you can pull it the rest of the way out.
Easy..
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top