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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello all,

I have a issue with my bike a 1987 gl1200a I moved to Florida about a year ago for a job to did not happen when I got here and the cost to move a car use all my money I had and so I stored the bike.

When I stopped using the back (at the end of my il tags the bike had starting issues (bad starter) the last stat I hear a bang but ran ok but would not restart so I just stored it and put fuel stabilizer in the take about 1/4 full or less. I did not plan for it to sit this long...Now I pulled it out and replaced the starter and smelled what I think is gas is I am doping the oil and replacing it.

THE QUESTION: should I have other concerns before I to and crank the engine? one other issue I know I have is the clutch oil is empty as well but it has always got low since I owned the bike and that was never found why.

Thanks for you help (I might have a job so I might need to start riding again wife has the car).

Dorwin
 

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Gas in the oil means the petcock was left open /on and the float valve(s )sticking so that gas flows into the cylinders and seeps past the rings, which is also known as hydrolock, liquid in cylinders, and will turn over hard if at all. It can bend rods and valves.
What stabilizer did you use?

You will probably have to clean the carbs, new gas filter, inspection of gas tank through the float opening for rust and debris.

Clutch problem is slave cylinder is gunked from not changing the dot 4 yearly. It will need to be rebuilt along with the master cylinder, thorough cleaning at the very least, and your brake systems too.
You should go through the bike as as bring back to life before riding it for your safety, those that ride with you and general peace of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
>>>What stabilizer did you use?

I believe it was STA BIL I use that in the boats I have worked on.

>>>You will probably have to clean the carbs, new gas filter, inspection of gas tank through the float opening for rust and debris.

does that means I have to pull and remove the carbs, is there a good post how to do that? the filter I have done before and where is the float opening (near the petcock)?

>>>Clutch problem is slave cylinder is gunked from not changing the dot 4 yearly. It will need to be rebuilt along with the master cylinder, thorough cleaning at the very least, and your brake systems too.

Is there a good post on how to do that? I had never found one before that is why I never fixed that problem.

I have dumped the oil and let it drain for a while and was able to crank it be hand from the timing belt area (after taking out the spark plugs).
 

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First thing's first, get a book. You can read posts all day long, but nothing beats having the book right next to you, especially pulling the carbs.

Next, I don't know that the clutch is because of gunk, I think it's because the slave is leaking, but either way, you're probably looking at a rebuild.

The previous suggestion about the gas in the oil is probably 100% correct, which means don't even try to crank it until you at least have the spark plugs out... if those cylinders are flooded with gas and you go to turn it over you could destroy the motor.

But just to remind you, the best thing you can do is get a book.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I do have my book, the black shop manual but was looking for something more simple. The oil is changed and spark plugs pulled and I was able to turn the engine with a wench ( I did not use the starter that I put in yet). I have had a lot of people say that I should put some mystery oil in along with my regular oil. what is the different between dot 3 and dot 4 brake oil I have a lot of dot 3 but everything says to use dot 4.

@Newday777 is there a check list to follow to "bring back to life" I agree it must be safe I am not going to cut corners except to do it my self as no one around work on this old of a bike anyway!
 

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DOT 4 has a higher boiling point. Yes DOT 3 will work.

MMO in the oil for an engine flush, 1 qt MMO, balance w/Delo 400LE 15w40 to full mark, ride 200-300 miles in 1 ride, lots of shifting up and down and RPMs below 3,000 RPM then change the oil and filter while it is still hot to get the gunk out.

Randakks for carb parts and instructions
http://randakks.com/collections/honda-gl1200
http://randakks.com/collections/guides/products/honda-gl1200-goldwing-carburetor-repair-guide
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...-tips-cleaning-tiny-idle-jet-hole-gl1100.html
 

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First thing's first, get a book. You can read posts all day long, but nothing beats having the book right next to you, especially pulling the carbs.

Next, I don't know that the clutch is because of gunk, I think it's because the slave is leaking, but either way, you're probably looking at a rebuild.

The previous suggestion about the gas in the oil is probably 100% correct, which means don't even try to crank it until you at least have the spark plugs out... if those cylinders are flooded with gas and you go to turn it over you could destroy the motor.

But just to remind you, the best thing you can do is get a book.
The slave cylinder will leak because of gunk getting in the seal grooves and hardening, same with the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok so far I have completed tank inspection looked ok. ordered a fuel filter, tested fuel pump Not working I do not know it this was because of sitting or stopped working at some point the last month it was driven it was really hard to start and poor performance but either way I could not get it to flow fuel so I have to find one replace the oil and cleaned clutch slave and got it working replaced plugs and anti-freeze. replace air filter the chamber going to the carbs looked ok.

I pulled all the calipers off and ordered new pads but it concerns me that the barrels to them are really cruddy is there a way to clean them up?

so to go is shaft-drive drain and replace and redo the calipers and most likely rebuild carbs. can anyone think of anything else while I am waiting on parts?
 

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I'm curious how you checked the fuel pump. They are not known to fail on the 1200's. They will only pump while cranking, kill switch in run position, or engine running unless you did the check outlined in the service manual.

You can pull the pump easily and squirt some carb cleaner in there to clean out any "gunk" that may be freezing the pump. At that time also insure that gas is actually getting to the pump from the filter.
 

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Depending on how it was stored and what kind of condition it was in before that, you may want to consider doing the fork oil too, since you're doing all the other fluids anyway. Also, even if they look good, you may find that when you go to ride it the tires have flat spots... that'll get your attention real quick :shock::cheesygrin:
 

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John is right, you have to check all the circuits of the pump and it's plumbing to be sure it is bad before ordering a pump, there are posts on the pump failure on the 1200, use the forum search tool and read up on it long, before you order a pump. There are pumps from a Honda car listed to get at autoparts store for less than the M/C Stealer.

Did you test the power circuit to the pump, could be a fuse (looking at a fuse is not how to test, use a test light or better a multimeter.
Could be the fuel pump relay.
Do all the tests in the repair manual.

You had to order a fuel filter???? It's not in stock????? Honda Stealer???? How much $??????

Get a Napa #3011 gas filter for your 1200, @$5.
 

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As to your brakes, you need to pop out the pistons and clean the calipers and pistons after a long sit or fluid not being changed yearly, two years at most, from new or since last caliper rebuild. Leave the calipers hooked up to the brake lines. I start by cleaning out the master cylinder of old dot4 using the mighty vac or a Turkey injection syringe from home Depot, or wallyworld etc. Wipe out any gunk, Fill with new (fresh can) dot4, then one caliper at a time, remove the pads if they are to be used again, as popping the pistons will soak the pad. I use an old pad back in to catch the pistons, or a thin piece of wood, 1/4" ply, then pump the pistons out hydrolically, sometimes one piston sticks from gunk in the seal groove if the bike has not been maintained so watch that both come out evenly or you will need to put the loose piston back in and bleed the air, hold it in with another thin piece of wood so the stuck piston will free up and out. WARNING!!!!Do not have your fingers in to hold the pistons while applying pressure if you value them.
If you are going to reuse the seals(best to get the kits) put the used seals in clean dot4 to keep them soft. If stretched when removing them, replace them.
Clean the grooves of any hardened gunk very carefully with a dental pic. Do not scratch the bores.
Clean the pistons with very fine crocus cloth or 800 grit wet paper and clean dot4.
 
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