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i'm still confused about the relay. does it affect performance?or does it just stut off the pump when the key is off? if there is continuity from the white wire to ground is it faulty? the relay is $60.00+ bucks, i can do that but......:?
 

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I can't remember what the check is for the relay...I'm not home so I cannot get to my manuals. Someone will come along and chime in on that. If you are unsure best bet is to replace that fuel cut relay. You'll occassionally see them on Ebay, but I got mine new OEM.
 

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Relay if it does not stay energized the thing being controlled will not work properly
Energize the relay an a set of contacts within the relay change their state from either on/off to off/on.
Testing
1- Does the relay itself work when energized, look, feel the relay, there is a clicking noise when it mechanically moves.
2- Do the contacts work, are N.O. contact open, are N.C. contacts closed when the relay is not energized.
3- Do the contacts change their state from N.O to closed and from N.C to open when the reay is energized
4- When energized does the relay work or just hums or nothing happens
5- Are the wires connected
6- Are the contacts in good shape, or worn, burnt
 

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thanks ark, i'll do some of that checking. the no/nc issue is a problem as the relay is sealed. i can check to see if it clicks with the key on/running.
 

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A relay usually has 4 connectors. Two of those connectors will be a + (plus) and a - (minus). these two connectors are used to energize the relay. The other two connections "breaks" (normally closed) or "makes" (normally open) the circuit going to the device it is controlling.

If you can trace back the wires from the fuel pump that goes to the relay that will be the wire that controls the pump. There should be one wire that shows a short to ground (the - for the relay to energize. There will probably be 2 wires that show voltage, the smaller of the two will probably be the + that energizes the relay (this may pulse when the engine is running). The larger of the two will probably be what feeds the wire that is going to the relay.

What you really want to see (and you already know this because you verified the pump runs) is that the wire going to the pump gets voltage on it (either steady when key is turned on, or pulsed when engine is running).

If you didn't have the voltage going to the pump, you would make sure that the smaller + wire was seeing voltage (steady or pulsed) and the larger + wire have study voltage on.

I haven't looked at mine or found a wiring diagram so I don't know what the white wire does. Posting the test procedure you have may help make it easier to understand. But I would say, if the fuel pump is running, then that relay is good. When a relay fails it stops working all together.
 

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there are 3 wires, i will retest but the first was: wht. to ground=continuity;key on wht. to ground=continuity; engine running wht. to ground=pulsed continuity.
 

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If I had to guess, the white wire goes to the pump and would probably test as you described. the "missing" wire (from my description) is that the relay may use it's case as ground (minus).
 

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there are 3 wires, i will retest but the first was: wht. to ground=continuity;key on wht. to ground=continuity; engine running wht. to ground=pulsed continuity.

That says turn on key pump works
Then at some time in the future the on becomes a pulse on

So when finally starting, turn key on and pump comes on, start bike with bike running pump goes intermittant...because a running pump reaches pressure then stops, pressure drops and starts again. The on and off times are used to maintain a specific PSIG in order to keep bike running...this can be verified by someone with the same bike...I'm stuck in the past with a 30 year old 1100
 

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except that it is not grounded. actually mounts in a rubber boot(if it had the rubber boot).
 

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As long as the pump is clicking and pumping fuel well then the relay issue is probably a red herring....Steve
 

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OK, pulled out my Clymer, the white wire goes to the fuel pump. The back wire provides the power. The blue/yellow wire provides the pulse from the coils. Again, the case of the relay probably provides ground.

The black wire will have power to it as long as the key is on. The blue/yellow wire will supply the pulse that energies the relay. As the relay energizes the voltage on the black wire will be connected to the white wire providing voltage to the pump.

I'm not sure why the test you had was checking the white wire to ground. Maybe they were looking for the pulsing, but not the way I would have chose to check the operation. there is always more than one way to skin a cat though :)
 

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ok, that makes sense. i didn't find any red herrings however there was can of bud and a flipflop lodged in the carb intake tube!:doh:
 

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Having just replaced a relay for no reason I can tell you the factory manual tells you to jumper the white and black wires at the relay and the pump should run with the key on. Mine would not. Turns out the pump was bad but even with a new pump it would not show voltage to the pump with the key on.After several hours of head scratching I tried testing for power with the starter button depressed and low and behold I had power while cranking. The manual doesnt even mention that but made sense because the third wire to the relay is from the ignition module. Maybe this will help. Good luck.
 

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Yep- you only get power to the pump when cranking or if the engine is running. That caught me out in rural France when the bike stopped due to a pump failure. I was trying to trace the lack of power but with just the ignition on. When I put a live feed from the accesory fuse o/p to the pump it jumped into life- but probably because I disturbed it. 100 miles later it failed again!. Constant cleaning and fiddling with the points got me home and then I replaced the pump.....Steve
 

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Hi Guys,
Been reading your posts on the fuel pump relay fore a 1984 1200 Aspencade. Can anyone tell me where the fuel pump relay actually is located so I can test it? I cannot find it for sure. We're out of town with a broke down bike
Thanks
 

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marcpoehner wrote:
Hi Guys,
Been reading your posts on the fuel pump relay fore a 1984 1200 Aspencade. Can anyone tell me where the fuel pump relay actually is located so I can test it? I cannot find it for sure. We're out of town with a broke down bike
Thanks
remove the top compartment and the coils and you should see the relay
 

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