Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
407 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

Hi Guys

Anyone got any idea why the fork seal would still be leaking? I have done the following:

  • Changed the seal , [this most obvious of fixes did not work]
  • Changed the upper bushing and fitted new seal [this did not work either]
  • So getting p***ed off now [incidentally this did not work]
  • Buy new slider [with lower bushing], upper bushing and seal all genuine Honda parts [no luck]
  • checking fork leg it looks fine internally no scores , pits or anything
So I'm stumped ,I have let the air out, tried different fork oils and weights and short of buying lower leg for the bike I am stumped.....

I could leave it till all the oil is gone that would stop the leak, but really its not the leak that bothers me as such, it is oil on the pads and the lack of friction that freaks me out.

Ideas?

BB
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,148 Posts
imported post

Just food for thought...

I've done toooooo many fork seal jobs, and still don't know everything..

Did you install the first seal in the correct direction? The sealing lip always faces down.. Then, of course, the dust seal will only go on one way..

Did you install the spring circlip with the correct edge facing up?

Last but not least, did you GREASE everything when you put back together? I use a light wheel bearing grease during assembly to give the lip of the seal time to seat against the shaft...

One other problem I ran into one time was the Honda dealer gave me seals for an 1100 and told me they were all the same... BALOGNA!!! They are not... If all the parts are correct, and were installed correctly, they won't leak unless there is a major defect in the mating surfaces... :goofygrin:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,491 Posts
imported post

Black Bart wrote:
Hi Guys

Anyone got any idea why the fork seal would still be leaking? I have done the following:

  • Changed the seal , [this most obvious of fixes did not work]
  • Changed the upper bushing and fitted new seal [this did not work either]
  • So getting p***ed off now [incidentally this did not work]
  • Buy new slider [with lower bushing], upper bushing and seal all genuine Honda parts [no luck]
  • checking fork leg it looks fine internally no scores , pits or anything
So I'm stumped ,I have let the air out, tried different fork oils and weights and short of buying lower leg for the bike I am stumped.....

I could leave it till all the oil is gone that would stop the leak, but really its not the leak that bothers me as such, it is oil on the pads and the lack of friction that freaks me out.

Ideas?
BB, Renegadecovered most of the possibilities. I will just add: make sure you are using the correct fork oil level (correct amount of fork oil). If your bike has aftermarket fork springs (like progressive) it's very possible you added too much oil if using the amount specified in the manual. Excess oil will leak like crazy if there isn't enough room for the oil to go on fork compression.

Twisty

Twisty
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,088 Posts
imported post

BB, are you using a Clymer manual to help? The early Clymer was wrong because it showed the seal being fitted the wrong way up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
407 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
imported post

Thanks for the insight Guys -please partake ofsome Mana , Hey Renegade the animation is well cool , mybetter halfrides a Valkyrie.

Well youcould beonto something there.......


The Fork seals have what I would term an open end and a closed end. If I was fitting this seal to a wheel bearing hub on any vehilce I can think of I would fit the open end to the grease and the closed end to the outside world. [best I could explain]

The clymer shows exactly the opposite with the closed end [with the cutaway]fitting into the fork. Now from my background this seems "arse about tit" to coin a phrase, but I believed the manual!!!, I look at the haynes and it shows a photo of the components on the slider and it clearly shows the open end is facing towards the fork leg.

Confused ? I am
So I reckon I will fit the last seal I have upside down [as per a grease hub] to see if that fixes the leak lets face it, what haveI got to lose.....;-) I mean only Honda could press in a seal back to front and call it correct eh?

BB
 

·
Other side of the pond
Joined
·
3,409 Posts
imported post

BB, The Haynes book is right. The side with the channel all round should be facing upwards.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,776 Posts
imported post

Want to second Renegades suggestion on the direction of the seal, I followed the Clymer manual instead of taking pics on disassembly. It cost me a trip to the dealer, and the book-store... :action:

And do not over-fill.... :gunhead:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
73 Posts
imported post

while you guys are on this subject......... how hard is it to rebuild the forks and replace the seals........ i got one on my 1100 that is leaking oil just started doing it here recently....... was wondering how hard it is to replace the seals and so on........ something that me and my buddy can do in the back yard with out do much trouble???
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,148 Posts
imported post

Have a repair manual handy and take your time. Be sure to clean, clean, clean all the mating surfaces and parts after dissassembly. Replace any worn parts such as the sleeves, bushings, seals and springs.. Depending on how many miles are on the bike, now would be a good time to install either original replacement springs or Progressive performance springs...If you install Progressives, have someone assist you installing the retainer nuts.. The springs are stiffer than standard.

CAUTION!! When removing the spring retainer nuts on top, drape a heavy towel over your work to prevent the nut from shooting into your teeth. It is under a great deal of pressure and will pop off with a lot of force.. If it misses your face, look for it at the end of the room or somewhere out in the yard.. :D

When re-assembling, coat every moving part with ATF and the seals with a light bearing grease to help them seat against the inner shaft. Fill the forks with the recommended weight fluid and correct amount.. Too much will cause the seals to leak and you will end up doing the job over again.. I use ATF, but some of the guys use motor oil... Check the threads on this site and make your own decision. Good luck.:)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
183 Posts
imported post

Where exactly is the leaking coming from.



I was so smart I had my seals in upside down. The oil would ooze right out around the innerseal where the slider slides up and down.

I used some aftermarket seals that looked the same on the top and bottom. The inside of the seal was how I could tell which side was up...the second time I did it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,350 Posts
imported post

I am getting ready to install Progressive springs and replace seals. How much oil do you leave out when changing to Progressive springs? Are the aftermarket seals as good as Honda? :?
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
imported post

Check out the Progressive Suspension website, they give the info you're looking for. Basically they say the progressive springs displace more oil than the OEM so they should be filled by measuring the oil depth, not by volume. They don't give an amount of oil because you can put the springs in either way, close wound up or down, and it makes a difference in the amount of oil used. They say it doesn't make any mechanical difference which way you put the springs in but on some bikes putting the close wound end on top makes some noise.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
183 Posts
imported post

Once I got my aftermarket seals in right side up, they work just fine. I live in Ohio and I ordered them from the UK. So it was a bit of a wait for shipping.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,350 Posts
imported post

exavid wrote:
Check out the Progressive Suspension website, they give the info you're looking for. Basically they say the progressive springs displace more oil than the OEM so they should be filled by measuring the oil depth, not by volume. They don't give an amount of oil because you can put the springs in either way, close wound up or down, and it makes a difference in the amount of oil used. They say it doesn't make any mechanical difference which way you put the springs in but on some bikes putting the close wound end on top makes some noise.
Thanks for the information. This is the best site I have ever seen for Goldwing information:weightlifter:I will check out this site before I install.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
510 Posts
imported post

I used the promoly aftermarket seals, and so far they are holding up.



I would grab a true metal straight-edge, and check that your forks are PERFECTLY straight. Any warpage can cause the seals to NOT seat properly. (Did you rear-end anything?)

On the topic of rebuilding forks... It is possible to replace the seals without taking anything apart. Just do a search for my post on the topic some months back. It takes an all-afternoon job, and turns it intoa half-hour job.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
407 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
imported post

BRowan wrote:
BB, are you using a Clymer manual to help? The early Clymer was wrong because it showed the seal being fitted the wrong way up.
Top Marks, this was the problem , the clymer says the cutaway goes down the way and leads into the fork to ease assembly or some other bollix. The Clymer is wrong!:battle::doh::bash:

The seal in the 1200 is identical to the ST1100, fortunatly the ST1100 manual is written by someone who knows......."the seal is fitted with the markings and numbers on the seal face facing upwards" now how easy is that to understand?
:dance::dance::dance:

So well spotted , and now a definitive way of explaining how the seal should be fitted as well.
All seals leak free now:cooler:

BB
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,148 Posts
imported post

BB--- You're amazing..!:cooler:
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top