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So here is my question, is the headlight on a 1200 on a relay

I ask because I havefog/driving lights installed, I have them wired through a relay

when I step on the brake the headlight and dash lightsdim but the driving lights don't seem to be effected at all

can I put the headlight on a relay and make it stop dimming

I have read that changing the rear markers and taillights to LED helps with this



also is there a good reasonable price replacment bulb for the headlight that can produce better light than the stock set up

my cheap wal-wart fog lights are twice as bright as the headlight, they just don't travel very far





I askaboutthis becauseI just picked up a camper and that is even more lights to deal with. I plan to do a good bit of riding next year and need good lights at night





so will wiring the headlight to a relay help with the dimming or is it better to go LED on rear lights and even the trailer
 

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I have heard the "bad ground" explanation a lot. Fact is, all GL12s do that and seem to do it from day one.

As I understand,problem with LED tail lights is they don't reflect properly, therefore you lose a lot of visibility. Plus, the system sees the lack of power drain as a burned out bulb.

Some like the super white halogen bulbs but they don't draw any less power. I've got one and don't really see any improvement.

That leaves the HID lights. You lose high beam but gain a lot on the low beam, and they draw less juice. On the down side, other drivers hate them and they are against the law in some states.

Many years ago, state of the art was a yellowish dim bulb commonly known as incandescent. Then halogens burst onto the scene. Brighter, whiter, and of course misused by some and hated by others. Eventuallythey became the standard. So will HID I suppose, but they need some work to get there.
 

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your headlights are dimming because once you put your brakelights on the system voltage is probably dropping from 14v to 12v or so,not only because of greater draw of the brakelights but because at lower lower speeds the stator puts out less watts
once you use your camper you'll probably find that the draw will be too much and you'll have a problem keeping battery charged
i'd reccommend that you consider doing the "poorboy" conversion during the winter and then you'll have all the wattage you need under any condition
 

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I agree Dennis, I have heard from many that the 1200 headlight will dim when you apply the brakes
I still am confused why it does and the fog lights don't

I have been looking into the HID and have to say I'm not sold on them at this time


I know there is some kind of relay tied into the headlight because it will go off while cranking the bike
so if I can assure all my grounds are good
what would happen if I wired the headlight through a relay just like the fog lights
I guess I need to trace back and see how the relay is set up for the cranking then see where the draw from the brakes is getting to the headlight and put the relay between that
hmm the more I think about it the more it does sound like a ground problem in the light system, maybe internal somewhere or in the taillight itself possibly
INTERESTING
Looks like its time to experiment

the bike is down for other repairs now anyway, that is why I'm trying to cover everything now.If she has to be down I'm gonna make it worth while
 

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Neo
I'm not sure I buy into that being the only cause here, I say this because I have tryed a few things in the past, ie revving the motor to a high RPM and then applying the brakes, same result,if this is the case then why don't my fog lights dim also
I know it plays a part but not sure I believe it's the only cause. I'm trying to put off the poorboy mod because $$ limits my repairs, and right now I have a few going on

I know with the camper I will have to not run my rear light bar and maybe my lights on the front wheel covers to allow for the lights on it, my only concern now is the added brake lights

I think I will do some testing this weekend with the lights
I need to know for sure what is happening
and if it comes to it I will just have to bite the bullet and budget for a poorboy kit

I'll post back here what I do and what I find out
 

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I run HID headlight, I have high and low beam, works great. Lots of light.:wtf:
 

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sounds like you have overloaded the system with all these lights. replace the four 1157 brake and tail lights with led bulbs. leave the turn signals alone. replace all of the trailer lights with leds. this should take care of the problem. walkabout :)
 

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I agree with Neo. Those of us with on board volt guages watch our voltage drop from 14+ volts driving when you come to a stop. This occurs both from the added draw of the brakelights plus the lower rpm resulting in less power being produced by the stator. Once your usage surpasses the amount supplied by stator you will begin to drain battery.
Relay or not won't matter-the headlight will use what it uses.It turns off while cranking via design of the start button-makes more power avail for cranking.
FYI Dennis-Halogen bulbs ARE incandescents:)
 

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Your diving lights don't dim because they are grounded somewhere besides the main harness ground (located under the voltage regulator) that is the only ground point for all the lights on the bike. If you take the bolt out of that ground lug and scrape the frame to bare metal and clean the ground lug and re-install it you probably won't have any more problems.
And BTW HIDs are awesome. They do not blind oncoming drivers and use less power than incandescent bulbs.
 

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its also possible that some of your connectors might need some cleaning but whatever u do the problem just cant be prevented,its just the nature of the beast with the regular stator setup,that's why most people have gone with the poorboy conversion which overcomes this problem
 

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OK it makes sence now
I will clean the ground , go with the LED lihts and I have to stay with the stock setup for now,,,, $$$ or lack there of wins for now

Thanks for helping me understand
 

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You can also run a new separate ground to the battery terminal right from the headlight ground. It won't affect anything adversely. In fact if your grounds are weak, it may improve some things as well.

Whenever I add auxiliary power circuits, I always run a clean +12 and ground right from the battery.

This won't reduce battery voltage drop but will ensure as hot a circuit as possible short of using a relay for the + side with the stock system.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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DaveO430 wrote:
Your diving lights don't dim because they are grounded somewhere besides the main harness ground (located under the voltage regulator) that is the only ground point for all the lights on the bike. If you take the bolt out of that ground lug and scrape the frame to bare metal and clean the ground lug and re-install it you probably won't have any more problems.
And BTW HIDs are awesome. They do not blind oncoming drivers and use less power than incandescent bulbs.
Which bolt is that? Can you point it out in a pic?

The reason I ask is there is nothingunder my regulator.
 

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Not sure how yours is set up but-It is the actual lower bolt for the regulator bracket... see pic...
 

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Neo is correct. The reason the driving lights don't dim (as much) is because they are tied directly to the battery. The battery is a large reservoir/buffer. The headlight dims because system voltage drops. As has been tried to explain before, line loss in the system creates voltage drops that are not seen by the battery. You can clean grounds all day. It may help. But it's not the cause.
 
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