lots of penetrating oil and my trusty pipe wrench.
gl1200 i/state seized brake lines
hi riders & wrenchers
as we're overhauling the '84 state.
the po wasn't honest about
certain working parts.
the rear brake master cylinder
has seized brake line nuts.
we're tried penetrating fluid and
these little critters won't budge.
the master cylinder is leaking,
torn boot etc.
is there a simple way of releasing
the seized nuts please.
i can't use heat, due to the nearby
gas tank
boom!
many thanks for your help ya'all!
regards
Angel
as we're overhauling the '84 state.
the po wasn't honest about
certain working parts.
the rear brake master cylinder
has seized brake line nuts.
we're tried penetrating fluid and
these little critters won't budge.
the master cylinder is leaking,
torn boot etc.
is there a simple way of releasing
the seized nuts please.
i can't use heat, due to the nearby
gas tank
boom!many thanks for your help ya'all!
regards
Angel
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1 - 17 of 17 Posts
seized rear brake lines!
hi tt
thanks for your message lovely!
wont the bolts snap off with your
trusty pliers?
they're on so tight, makes my eyes
water!
the 10mm spanner i used today,
bent on attempting to release them.
I'm concerned about fracturing the
brake lines tt!
how tough are the bolts bud?
many thanks for helping me tt!
regards
Angel what a wrench!
hi tt
thanks for your message lovely!
wont the bolts snap off with your
trusty pliers?
they're on so tight, makes my eyes
water!
the 10mm spanner i used today,
bent on attempting to release them.
I'm concerned about fracturing the
brake lines tt!
how tough are the bolts bud?
many thanks for helping me tt!
regards
Angel
what a wrench!
Short answer no. At times no matter what you do the line will be seized to the nut.is there a simple way of releasing
the seized nuts please.
First off is to use the proper tool for maximum grip and that would be a tubing wrench (there are no substitutes). Keep the spray going and try tightening the nut first before the loosening. This can sometimes break the seal between nut and line. Work it back and forth.
I read on a forum awhile back about a mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid that worked better than any penetrating fluids. They used a 50-50 mixture. I have a can of it mixed up and have been happy with the results. Be carefull what the acetone touches since it is not compatible with all surfaces.
Good luck.
Steve
Good luck.
Steve
each time i work on older brake lines it seems to me there is a cascade effect where it becomes impossible to just replace one bad part, even with the proper tools. since fittings and steel line are cheep here i would just as soon replace it all and be done for the next 30 years.
Build a dam around the offending nut with play-dough or plumber's putty and fill with penetrant. Leave it for many days then try. If it's really that bad, I'd get some vise-grips on it for the big event.
If you're using a line wrench and it's trying to round the nut try clamping the wrench jaws with vice-grips.
No problem if you use the rigth tool. If your 10mm spanner is bending , it is for sure not the rigth tool in a proffessional quality !
If you are talking about the 2 flare nuts (the '84I has a linked braking system) that connect the steel brake lines to the master cylinder, here is how to do it. First, you will need a flare nut wrench. An open end wrench will destroy the nuts, they are very soft. Put the flare nut wrench on the fitting, then use a small pair of vise grips on the outside of the wrench to squeeze it tight against the nut. You can then remove the nut without bending either the wrench or the nut. I have done it this way for decades. The nut is made of some kind of super soft metal (not sure why) and even the best quality wrench does not fit on it tightly enough to avoid deforming it if it is really stuck.
What i would have said , - if i could explain it in English(i am better in Danish , LOL ).If you are talking about the 2 flare nuts (the '84I has a linked braking system) that connect the steel brake lines to the master cylinder, here is how to do it. First, you will need a flare nut wrench. An open end wrench will destroy the nuts, they are very soft. Put the flare nut wrench on the fitting, then use a small pair of vise grips on the outside of the wrench to squeeze it tight against the nut. You can then remove the nut without bending either the wrench or the nut. I have done it this way for decades. The nut is made of some kind of super soft metal (not sure why) and even the best quality wrench does not fit on it tightly enough to avoid deforming it if it is really stuck.
seized brake master cyl nuts!
hi wingers
many thanks for helping me
with identifying the correct tool.
i did a search of fleabay and
found a good quality flared brake
spanner for £4 brit pounds +
free ship!
q) you've advised that the brakes
are a link system. so if you pull
the front brake, it operates the rear
brake. how does the
bike calculate the correct %
of braking?
i was taught to use 70% front
brake and then 30% rear brake.
q2) how do you bleed linked
brakes?
many thanks
Angel
hi wingers
many thanks for helping me
with identifying the correct tool.
i did a search of fleabay and
found a good quality flared brake
spanner for £4 brit pounds +
free ship!
q) you've advised that the brakes
are a link system. so if you pull
the front brake, it operates the rear
brake. how does the
bike calculate the correct %
of braking?
i was taught to use 70% front
brake and then 30% rear brake.
q2) how do you bleed linked
brakes?
many thanks
Angel
Your right hand lever controls the left caliper, the pedal controls rear and front right.
front left= 33%
front right=33%
Rear = 33%
I think it closely follows the rule.
front left= 33%
front right=33%
Rear = 33%
I think it closely follows the rule.
The linked brakes are operated with the foot pedal not the hand lever.q) you've advised that the brakes
are a link system. so if you pull
the front brake, it operates the rear
brake. how does the
bike calculate the correct %
of braking?
i was taught to use 70% front
brake and then 30% rear brake.
q2) how do you bleed linked
brakes?
many thanks
Angel
The pedal operates the rear caliper with 32mm pistons and the front right with 25mm pistons so you get more braking in the rear than the front using the pedal only. You add front braking with the hand lever.
Bleeding linked brakes is like bleeding car brakes, you bleed at one caliper then at the other.
Heat is your friend. If you're worried about using an open flame, use a heat gun.
try taking a adjustable rench (cressent) and tightening on the steel line just above the stuck nut . hold the tool like ur trying to loosen it. use a hammer, and hit the rench as close to the fitting as possible, Driving the rench down on the head of the nutt this can brake the russted fitting loose
rear master cylinder, linked braking and slow riding!
hi wingers!
many thanks for
all of your hints, tips and advice!
q) on linked brakes, how do
slow riding on a wing please?
on a bike without linked brakes,
i would use part throttle, slipped
clutch and rear brake.
with linked brakes, both brakes are
on?
first time riding a wing.
been riding all of my life.
many thanks for your advice!
Angel
Angel
hi wingers!
many thanks for
all of your hints, tips and advice!
q) on linked brakes, how do
slow riding on a wing please?
on a bike without linked brakes,
i would use part throttle, slipped
clutch and rear brake.
with linked brakes, both brakes are
on?
first time riding a wing.
been riding all of my life.
many thanks for your advice!
Angel
Angel
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
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