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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Fellow Wingers!!!

I recently purchased a JUNCTION LEAD KIT FOR GL-1200 ASPENCADE and a set of J&M intercoms for my wife's helmet and mine.

Last night we tested out the intercom and had an issue I'm hoping you've sene before.

When we push the intercom control button to activate the Head Sets we are only getting sound out the the left ear piece. After playing with the button several times we found that when the button goes all the way down (held down) we get sound out of both ear pieces. When we release the button, it comes up very slightly and we lose the sound in the right ear piece.

Any ideas how to fix this?

:praying:

Thanks,

Bob
1986 GL 1200
 

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Other side of the pond
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Sounds like the button contacts are in need of cleaning Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Can that be done without taking the radio out of the bike and opening it up?
 

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First off I would pull the radio and close up the connections a little, they do have a tendency to open up over time with all the bouncing on the road.
 

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I think I was wrong once!
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First off I would pull the radio and close up the connections a little, they do have a tendency to open up over time with all the bouncing on the road.
With holding button down it seems to work then it's probably a contact problem and you pushing on face of radio is making the contacts conect better so I agree pull the radio and use a pencile erasor on all contacts on the back of radio, use a q-tip and rubbing alcahol on all contacts on back of radio and down in the tunnle at radio conector "Bike side", then take a tooth pick or small hook and gently pry up on each contact on back of radio bending each one up or out a little to tighten up all electrical conections.

Is this just on intercome or does the sound work the same in headset when playing music too?

If this don't work m/p me I have completly gone threw my sound system including opening up the inside of radio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Is this just on intercome or does the sound work the same in headset when playing music too?
This happens with when playing music too. I'll send over a PM as it's looking like I might have to open her up this weekend.

Thanks Guys!!!
 

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This happens with when playing music too. I'll send over a PM as it's looking like I might have to open her up this weekend.

Thanks Guys!!!
You will need to try cleaning and pulling up on all the contacts first!!

I assume you know that cleaning and bending upward on the contacts will be a simple job that can be done in 5 min, I too had problems with my sound system and doing this fixed most of them.

If you don't already know how to pull the radio out, insert the ignition key in the lock next to the clock, turn it, pull the radio straight out twardes your face (sitting on bike)! Look at the back side of radio and you will see the conectors / contacts we are talking about.

Heck your only a 4 hr ride away from me I could even rid up some sunday morning and see if we cant fix the problem together. :)
 

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my cb wont talk can here good when i push the talk button it says tx on display but no out put.
any ideas thanks
First question on this would be does you intercome work corectly between two helmets?

I know the cb and intercom are difrent systems but I first need to know if the mic system is working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I gave this a try this weekend. No luck. I cleaned all contacts with the pencil eraser and rubbing alcohol on a Qtip. I also slightly bent up the contacts.

Now pushing and holding the headset button does not enable both speakers. Its only the left speaker on both headsets that is working.

We can use the intercom between the two headsets. I have to say it's nice being able to talk to my wife through this instead of shouting over my shoulder. But we are getting a buzzing sound between the sets. And No-it's not my wife!

This was the first time we rode using the headsets. My previous posts we were in our garage testing things out without the motor running.
 

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Take the 5 pin DIN that feeds into the headset junction box and plug a headset into it, see if your getting feed into both ears.
If not then I would suggest talking to sierra and sending your radio in for servicing.

The buzzing in the headsets can be reduced by doing a mod on the regulator that glhonda suggests. See If the buzzing is reduced by applying the brakes?
 

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I think I was wrong once!
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Well I gave this a try this weekend. No luck. I cleaned all contacts with the pencil eraser and rubbing alcohol on a Qtip. I also slightly bent up the contacts.

Now pushing and holding the headset button does not enable both speakers. Its only the left speaker on both headsets that is working.

We can use the intercom between the two headsets. I have to say it's nice being able to talk to my wife through this instead of shouting over my shoulder. But we are getting a buzzing sound between the sets. And No-it's not my wife!

This was the first time we rode using the headsets. My previous posts we were in our garage testing things out without the motor running.
Ok after rereading your first post and this post I would say it is probably in the conectors. I know the first thing you will say is it can't be because you just cleaned them and all but....
1) first post stated holding button had sound on right & left letting off button sound only on left. Last post stated no sound on right even when pushing button.

If the only thing you changed was cleaning and adjusting conectors and not no sound on right, i personaly would be playing with the conectors more!

2 you stated "But we are getting a buzzing sound between the sets. And No-it's not my wife".....
Is this a high pitched squeel or an electrical buzzing, electrical will varying along with the speed of engine, and goes away when brake light is on, high pitched squeel will not change much with engine RPM.

I had a problem with elecrtical buzzing and I got most of it gone but the forum will back me it's a GL1200 problem we live with.

I also had a right speeker problem but after tunnes of cleaning conectors and going threw the compleet sound system I found it to be the conections at the back of radio.

I have a high pitch sqweel problem when I hit a big bump and if I push the face of the radio in it goes away (again a conector problem on rear of radio)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
@Tricky-
Ok - I was so focused on the connectors from the radio into the bike I forgot about the 5-pin DIN connectors. I will work with those first.

If that doesn't solve the problem I'll try bypassing the headset junction box and plugging the headsets directly into 5 pin DIN.

You mention reducing the buzzing in the headsets by doing a mod on the regulator that glhonda suggests. I didn't see his post on this. Can you please post that link for me?

I dont recall if the buzzing is reduced by applying the brakes. I'll try that out and see what happens.

@Justwingit-
I'm getting an electrical buzzing. Fortunately not a high-pitched squeel. I will see what happens when the RPPMs vary. We went for a quick ride last night and were enjoying the cool Michigan night and the time out together.

Guys - Thanks for all the great suggestions. Ideas like this is what makes this forum so great!!!
 

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Ok its a buzzing not a high pitch squeel right?

Buzzing is electrical feedback from a bad electrical conection, the mod they are talking about could reduce it and it could elimnate it but untill it is done you will not know.

The plug under the tool chest in the top of the falce tank that goes to the regulator rectifyer check the conection on this plug you may see one or more of the pins have gotten hot! They are recomending you remove that plug and get some clean wire and solder them together.

A second place to look is at the three yellow wires coming out of the stator at that plug could need to be cut off and solders together. I have found that the main pwer to the radio and main fuse could be the problem too.

I personaly have removed all three plugs and replaced them with a soldered conection. After compleeting this mod my buzzing droped down and is not as lowed but it is still there, we only hear it when no music is playing now.

Pulling or pushing a brake lever added more amp draw to the system by turing on your brake light and with the added amp draw it removes the buzz, if it's the same buz problem they and i am talking about.
 

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After suffering with the buzzing since I bought my bike in 85, I finally identified the problem or at least my problem.

I installed an external alternator several years ago and the buzzing stopped.

I bought another 85 a couple of years ago it didnt have the external alternator and there was the buzzing on the intercom back again.
I installed installed a voltmeter and two driving lights.

I noticed that as I was driving the buzzing would appear when the voltage was just above 14.5V. When I switched on the driving lamps the voltage would start to decrease and the buzzing would disappear when the voltage reached about 14.2V

The Mod that glhonda suggests allows the regulator/rectifier to accurately read the battery voltage and keeps the voltage down to 14.2V

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/375622-voltmeter-reads-too-low.html
 

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I think I was wrong once!
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After suffering with the buzzing since I bought my bike in 85, I finally identified the problem or at least my problem.

I installed an external alternator several years ago and the buzzing stopped.

I bought another 85 a couple of years ago it didnt have the external alternator and there was the buzzing on the intercom back again.
I installed installed a voltmeter and two driving lights.

I noticed that as I was driving the buzzing would appear when the voltage was just above 14.5V. When I switched on the driving lamps the voltage would start to decrease and the buzzing would disappear when the voltage reached about 14.2V

The Mod that glhonda suggests allows the regulator/rectifier to accurately read the battery voltage and keeps the voltage down to 14.2V

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/375622-voltmeter-reads-too-low.html
ooops, sorry to jump in so fast, I never seen that thread on voltmeter reads too low, I like it! nice post GLHONDA and thanks.....:bow:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Guys,

I tried to plug in the headset to the 5-pin DIN that plugs into the junction box. No go. Both males. It just ain't natural if you know what I mean?

I was able to plug the headset into the plugs coming directly out of the junction box bypassing the extension cables provided when I bought the set. Same results.

I noticed when I pulled the radio and was cleaning the connections at the back that the connection housing (the blue part that has all of the 25 connectors) was slightly loose. I was not able to tighten it any more than it was.

Is that to allow for variations in not being aligned perfectly when sliding it back in?

BTW - after cleaning and resetting all of the pins (back of the radio, connectors on the bike and the 5-pin DINs), I no longer have any sound in the right speaker. This is saying to me that possibly the radio headset switch is no longer functioning.

Your guys thoughts?

Bob
 

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Guys,

I tried to plug in the headset to the 5-pin DIN that plugs into the junction box. No go. Both males. It just ain't natural if you know what I mean?.....
I personaly can't remember how I ran all the test that I ran on my bike but now that you sead it is a male feeding the juntion box I think I used the rear line to run that test.
If you look under the false tank you should locate the extention cable for the rear plug, I think it's female on both ends, if it is you can remove it or pull it back so you can plug it into the junction box feeder line to run the test.

:praying:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'll give that a try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I'm looking at the harness connection schematic that was attached by Tricky to one of the posts. If I understand this correctly I should be able to take a volt meter and run a current through socket # 3 going to pin # 3 on the Headset to see if the circuit is open or closed for the Right channel.

If it's open I won't see any reading and that will indicate a wiring issue between the socket and the headset (the radio could still be an issue too).

If it's closed I will get a reading. That would definetly mean the radio is the issue.

Does this sound right to you guys?
 
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