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1987 gl1200 A
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally completed my LED conversion on my 1987 Honda Gold Wing Aspencade. I did a lot of research on the internet and trial and error. This is what I ended up with. I replaced the headlight with an Auxito motorcycle LED bulb type H4/9003 replacement, no modifications necessary. These Gold Wing headlight lenses suck but this bulb was way better than a standard incandescent bulb, I was hoping for better but I do recommend this bulb. I would buy it again. AUXITO H4 9003 LED Headlight Hi/Low Beam 6000K Bulb Motorcycle Fanless 10000LM L | eBay . So then the rest of the bulbs, my bike has a trunk so I needed a total of 6 - 1157 led equivalent lights, I bought these and am very pleased - 1157 LED Bulb White 6500K, AUTOONE 2057 2357 7528 BAY15D LED Bulbs for Backup/ Reverse Light, Tail Light, Brake Light, 300% Brighter Canbus Ready Plug and Play LED Bulbs, Pack of 2 https://a.co/d/2HzlPwT . You will also need 2 – 1156 led equivalent lights - AUTOONE 1156 LED Bulb, LED Reverse Lights 300% Brighter BA15S 7506 1003 1141 P21W 6500K White LED Replacement for Backup Light, Tail Light, Pack of 2 https://a.co/d/2kx1XgM . And also 2 of these, they came in a 10 pack but were cheap enough - YESCHE Xenon White 64111 LED Bulb 12V Canbus Error Free BA9 BA9S 53 57 1895 Light Replacement for Car Truck Motorcycle Map Dome Door Courtesy Trunk Licenses Plate Light Super Bright 6000K 10-Pack https://a.co/d/ey5m68n. So after changing all these bulb these problems will rear their ugly heads. First the tail light indicator will light and also the flashers will hyper flash. Through a lot of research the best solution to fix these problems is to install 3 resistors. The main reason I changed to LED was to lessen the load on the charging system, so adding resistor seemed counter intuitive but this was the best way to fix the problems. A 6 ohm resistor will create a load equal to 1 blub. I used 2 6-ohm/50-watt resistors to fix the flashers. This doesn’t really add a load to the charging system because it is only active when using the flashers. I tried replacing the flashers with ones rated for LED but it caused problems with the auto canceller. There is room behind the tail light assembly in the middle to mount the resistors. Now to fix the tail light indicator, looking at the plug connected to the tail light bulb I could see that on my bike the wire to the tail light is brown. I followed the wire up under the seat and found the wire and connected a 10-ohm/50-watt resistor and grounded the other end. A 10-ohm resistor adds less load than a 6-ohm but was enough to trick the system to turn off the warning light. I am confident that if you are looking to switch to LED that this is the best route. All in all I am very pleased with the results. I significantly reduced the load on the charging system and at least doubled the brightness of all the lights on my bike. FYI for all the splices that I made I bared the wire wrapped the splice on and soldered the connection. BTW I wired the turn signal resistors parallel to the bulbs. Hope this helps someone, the research was harder than the work.
 

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I bet your regulator gets about as hot as the surface of the sun now.
 
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Because the unused current from the stator is shunted to ground by the regulator and the result is the regulator getting hot because the stator puts out full current no matter what. It is always better to use all the power you can and still keep the battery charged on this type of charging system.
 

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1987 gl1200 A
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Because the unused current from the stator is shunted to ground by the regulator and the result is the regulator getting hot because the stator puts out full current no matter what. It is always better to use all the power you can and still keep the battery charged on this type of charging system.
I was having problems with the battery getting low. It's only running at about 13.6 volts when above idle. There has been no change since the light bulb swap, still 13.6 volts. I've calculated the total draw from standard bulbs ~8.3 amps, LED lamps + resistor ~6.2 amps, just running lights and low beam. I'm not sure what the cooling fan draws. Does this sound right? I'm not an electrical engineer 🤣. Shouldn't the voltage be more like 14+ volts?
 

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In addition, your tail light indicator, now monitors your resistor. While it will tell you if your resistor goes bad, I bet if you pull the tail light it won't even notice. 🤡 A series regulator can help, too, when upgrading.

The very best bulb monitor I had on an older bike was a run of fiberoptic from the tail light housing up to the handlebars. I always knew the state of the tail/brake light and nothing could fool it. Older Cadillacs used the same system.
 

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I was having problems with the battery getting low. It's only running at about 13.6 volts when above idle. There has been no change since the light bulb swap, still 13.6 volts. I've calculated the total draw from standard bulbs ~8.3 amps, LED lamps + resistor ~6.2 amps, just running lights and low beam. I'm not sure what the cooling fan draws. Does this sound right? I'm not an electrical engineer 🤣. Shouldn't the voltage be more like 14+ volts?
I wouldn't worry about 13.6v, it's close enough.
 
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