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The turn signal switch on my GL1200 is "iffy". The auto cancel seldom does, and you have to "tweak" it to have the RHS front running light on.

Does anyone rebuild these, or am I best to get one from eBay.

If eBay is the answer, does the later Gl1200 style plug directly in?
 

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What year is yours? I have 1 from an 85A and will beat ebay price.
 

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rgbeard wrote:
The turn signal switch on my GL1200 is "iffy". The auto cancel seldom does, and you have to "tweak" it to have the RHS front running light on.

Does anyone rebuild these, or am I best to get one from eBay.

If eBay is the answer, does the later Gl1200 style plug directly in?
When you say "RHS front running light" you must be talking about your LTD. Right?

If so I doubt anything but an LTD or perhaps an SEi switch would be a direct replacement.
 

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I have a 1984 Interstate - and by RHS front running light - I mean the integrated upper fairing turn signal (near the mirrors), they're dim during normal running, and blink the second filament during turn.

Mine looks like this fine specimen (not mine, just a photo I googled):

 

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That does look different from the 85 switch, without seeing the connectors I can't say if it would work or not.
 

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rgbeard wrote:
I have a 1984 Interstate - and by RHS front running light - I mean the integrated upper fairing turn signal (near the mirrors), they're dim during normal running, and blink the second filament during turn.

Mine looks like this fine specimen (not mine, just a photo I googled):
The 84 1200 was unique in a lot of ways and that switch is just one of them.
The later switches will not work. There is a remote possibility that some 1100 switches would work but you're likely going to have to clean the insides of yours or buy an 84 switch.
 

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Ken Bergen wrote:
rgbeard wrote:
I have a 1984 Interstate - and by RHS front running light - I mean the integrated upper fairing turn signal (near the mirrors), they're dim during normal running, and blink the second filament during turn.

Mine looks like this fine specimen (not mine, just a photo I googled):
The 84 1200 was unique in a lot of ways and that switch is just one of them.
The later switches will not work. There is a remote possibility that some 1100 switches would work but you're likely going to have to clean the insides of yours or buy an 84 switch.
That is what I was thinking. Maybe an 83 1100 switch would work.
 

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DaveO430 wrote:
That is what I was thinking. Maybe an 83 1100 switch would work.
The 83 switch looks different than the 84.
I don't know if the plugs and internal contacts are different but unless I could get one for next nothing I wouldn't even think of trying it.
 

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Try gettin' into the switches to clean them out, assuming they come apart, makes a huge difference.
 

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mines fluffy and you have to coaks it
 

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Try using contact cleaner, works good if dirty. I also used it on my starter button (worked sometimes sometimes not) worked great, no problems since.The Bike sat for a while before I got it,must have got a little rusty in there,cleaner dripped out dirty.
 

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I know this an old debate but here goes...
As an ex-aircraft mechanic we frequently used contact cleaner to cure sticky "push to talk" switches mounted on the aircraft control yoke. While contact cleaner did a great job cleaning the internal contact points, it was not so friendly to plastic or rubber seals that these and many other switches contain. The switches would work good at first but the end result was usually switch replacement down the line.
Spraying WD-40 onto a switch usually accomplishes the same result without damage to rubber or plastic(usually) however there will be a buildup of goo from it's use.
Either way disassembly of the switch is likely inevitable and is the preferred method of dealing with a sticky switch. That way contact cleaner can be used with a swab directly on the contacts and not cause the rubber/plastic to swell up. The other parts of the switch can be cleaned free of debris with whatever agent is friendly to their construction.
I used to be among the guys that groaned every time WD40 was mentioned (it was also never present at the airport) but it has it's merit since it is less damaging to the rubber/plastic.
One other thing to try is compressed air blasted around the switch. Sometimes this will loosen debris that is inhibiting switch function allowing the switch to work with none of the contact cleaner/WD40 evils.
 
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