Two things to check 1-there was a recall on the key switch you will need to see if it was ever replaced. 2-It could be the dogbone fuse has a hair line crack in it,if you have not done the blade fuse holder change I would do it. Just one other thing comes to mind you may need to check your pulse generators,as when they heat up and are bad your motor will die. Just my 2 cents------------------Hal
GL1200 Lose all electrical power while riding
I went for a 200 mile ride today. My bike 3 times just lost all electrical power? Twice all the dash and lights went out and motor died and then everything flashed back on and it started right up and I just kept on riding. Once was at a stop everything went out so I turned the key on and off and it started right back up. It died the same way on me about two rides ago.
Oddly today it made it over a pass and through the heat of the day. It was about 50 miles from home it acted up three times and then never did it again?
Please help I need this bike to make a big trip soon. Thanks
Oddly today it made it over a pass and through the heat of the day. It was about 50 miles from home it acted up three times and then never did it again?
Please help I need this bike to make a big trip soon. Thanks
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Being the 5-6th owner how would know if the switch was replaced on recall?Two things to check 1-there was a recall on the key switch you will need to see if it was ever replaced. 2-It could be the dogbone fuse has a hair line crack in it,if you have not done the blade fuse holder change I would do it. Just one other thing comes to mind you may need to check your pulse generators,as when they heat up and are bad your motor will die. Just my 2 cents------------------Hal
Dog bone is this the metal strip in the main fuse next the battery? if so replace it with what? Just put a blade type fuse actached to each end of the dog bone? If so what amp fuse?
Pulse generator? is this part of the stator? mine is disconected I use the poor boy conversion.
Thanks
you can buy a fuse holder for the newer flat fuse,take the dog bone fuse out and use the screws that held it in place to connect the new fuse holder.I had a bad key switch on one of my bikes that would do just about the same thing yours is doing,so maybe a good time to look for a new switch.either one could be your problem.
Early 1984 1200's came under a recall for a faulty ignition switch. Mine was bad. The dealer if cooperative may look for it however, mine is bad and the dealer told me there are none available.
How I found it was to sit on the seat with ignition on (lit dash) and reach under moving the wires around while turning the handle bars, it would occasionally go dark and then back on.
I wound up buying a complete lockset off of ebay out of an 87 Interstate.
The bad ones do not have screws holding the "white olastic" actual wiring plate to the back of the ignition switch key cylinder. The good ones have a gray/black plastic backer plate with 2 or 3 screws on the wiring contacts.
Dogbone fuse is repaired by using an automotive Blade fuse holder and a 30 amp fuse fitted to the screws the dog bone attaches to.
the Pulse Generators for a 1984 are on the front of the engine behind the crankshaft pulley and the timing belts. I have heard the 1984 is not susceptable to the pulse generator failure because they are cooler out front. 1985-87 the pulse generators are on the back of the engine in a warmer spot.
How I found it was to sit on the seat with ignition on (lit dash) and reach under moving the wires around while turning the handle bars, it would occasionally go dark and then back on.
I wound up buying a complete lockset off of ebay out of an 87 Interstate.
The bad ones do not have screws holding the "white olastic" actual wiring plate to the back of the ignition switch key cylinder. The good ones have a gray/black plastic backer plate with 2 or 3 screws on the wiring contacts.
Dogbone fuse is repaired by using an automotive Blade fuse holder and a 30 amp fuse fitted to the screws the dog bone attaches to.
the Pulse Generators for a 1984 are on the front of the engine behind the crankshaft pulley and the timing belts. I have heard the 1984 is not susceptable to the pulse generator failure because they are cooler out front. 1985-87 the pulse generators are on the back of the engine in a warmer spot.
I'll check the ign switch tomorrow I both started the bike and wiggled the wires and turn the handle bars right and left it never died?, I had an extra dog bone fuse so Ijust swapped it out. If it acts up again then I'll go to a blade fuse set up.
Odds of it being the pulse generator? It did it once at the start of a ride so would it still be heat?
Odds of it being the pulse generator? It did it once at the start of a ride so would it still be heat?
My Ignition switch failed 3 times in a row over two mornings like you described. I spent about an hour looking around one day moving handle bars, etc because the 3rd time it went out I could get it off then on then off my moving handle bars.
So in that hour I kept grabbing the various wire clumps and pulling them this way and that a little a lot and moving the handle bars and suddenly it failed. Once I found it I could make it do it consistently then.
I would carry a few zip ties until you find it. If it is the ignition then pulling the back up tight to the body with zip ties could get you in should it fail completely.
I ran mine like that over about 500 miles across two months while I was moving to an area with a dealer available.
On the Pulse Gens seems right but idk since mine haven't shown that issue.
In all your work did you do timing belts and were you cautious around the pulse gens there in the crank pulley?
Good Luck.
So in that hour I kept grabbing the various wire clumps and pulling them this way and that a little a lot and moving the handle bars and suddenly it failed. Once I found it I could make it do it consistently then.
I would carry a few zip ties until you find it. If it is the ignition then pulling the back up tight to the body with zip ties could get you in should it fail completely.
I ran mine like that over about 500 miles across two months while I was moving to an area with a dealer available.
On the Pulse Gens seems right but idk since mine haven't shown that issue.
In all your work did you do timing belts and were you cautious around the pulse gens there in the crank pulley?
Good Luck.
I had some similar doin's. It was the plug at the top the starter relay. Many of them heat up and melt. Honda finally made a fix-kit for it I've heard. Under warranty, the dealer just soldered some spades on the wires and replaced the relay. That was 24 or 25 years ago and it's still working, so...
Another possibility, is simply a loose or dirty plug somewhere in the main power supply. It's not as likely though.
As far as the dogbone fuse. You can buy new ones. I've never had one fail in 270,000 miles, though.
Another possibility, is simply a loose or dirty plug somewhere in the main power supply. It's not as likely though.
As far as the dogbone fuse. You can buy new ones. I've never had one fail in 270,000 miles, though.
if the dash is going dark, lights out, and engine dead, that seems more like the keyswitch.
I would think that fiddlin with it, as suggested, would show a failure...
I would think that fiddlin with it, as suggested, would show a failure...
also pulse generator on 84 is in rear of engine 85 up is in front with timing belts
one other thing check pulse generator plug and make sure its locked in tight its just to the right of battery if you are facing battery
If you're losing ALL ELECTRICAL power, it's not pulse generators.
Ignition switch, starter relay/dog bone fuse, or ignition switch connector located on the right inboard side of the fairing.
For clarification, '84 pg's are in the rear, all others are up front. But it's not your pg's.
Ignition switch, starter relay/dog bone fuse, or ignition switch connector located on the right inboard side of the fairing.
For clarification, '84 pg's are in the rear, all others are up front. But it's not your pg's.
Pulse gen, as UbarW mentioned, or its circuit, wouldn't shut down the lights. The switch and the plug at the top of the starter relay are both common GL12 maladies.
Something I just thought of is...if you lose the clock set and radio memory, it's more likely the relay. If not, then the switch is the better choice.
Something I just thought of is...if you lose the clock set and radio memory, it's more likely the relay. If not, then the switch is the better choice.
switch
there is the probability that it may not be the switch itself but maybe at the connectors where the switch is connected to the mc harness
this is easily found on the bracket underneath the right front cover,to the left of the right pocket
there is the probability that it may not be the switch itself but maybe at the connectors where the switch is connected to the mc harness
this is easily found on the bracket underneath the right front cover,to the left of the right pocket
Sorry on the Pulse Gen location, Been looking at a couple of non-running 85/86's as a possible project and I had looked that up as one item of difference from my 84.
Since I haven't had issue with that item "yet" guess I will stay away from that discussion.
Since I haven't had issue with that item "yet" guess I will stay away from that discussion.
My 84 Magna would do the same thing, it was the ignition switch in my case.
As others have already stated the repaired key switch will have three small screws in the cover if you look up between the forks you can see the bottom of your key switch. If you see three small screws holding the cover on the key switch it is the fixed one,if not then its old. I had a 84 parts bike and pulled the key switch out of it and repaired the one on my bike. I cleaned the copper connections and applied some molly 60 to lube it and it has worked fine ever since.---------------Hal
My 84 1200 did the same thing.EVERYTHING went dead.It was the key switch.I sprayed electronic cleaner in the keyhole and blew it out really good about five times while it was on the bike and it has never shut-off since.Evidently the stuff made it to the contacts somehow.As others have already stated the repaired key switch will have three small screws in the cover if you look up between the forks you can see the bottom of your key switch. If you see three small screws holding the cover on the key switch it is the fixed one,if not then its old. I had a 84 parts bike and pulled the key switch out of it and repaired the one on my bike. I cleaned the copper connections and applied some molly 60 to lube it and it has worked fine ever since.---------------Hal
Sorry I work 10-12 hours a day so not much time to work on the bike. I'm hoping its something simple 
I did spray contact cleaner and blew it out several times. I dont see any screws in the switch.
I rode it this morning to work it didnt die, but it doesn't do all the time and when it does it comes back on in a matter of seconds like a relay resetting?
Also I cleaned and checked the relay and main plug to the right of the battery.
And no the clock doesnt loose memory when it happens, just dash, lights and motor go out.Thank you, and please keep it up, it's really helping me.
I did spray contact cleaner and blew it out several times. I dont see any screws in the switch.
I rode it this morning to work it didnt die, but it doesn't do all the time and when it does it comes back on in a matter of seconds like a relay resetting?
Also I cleaned and checked the relay and main plug to the right of the battery.
And no the clock doesnt loose memory when it happens, just dash, lights and motor go out.Thank you, and please keep it up, it's really helping me.
I had the same problem a few years ago, drove me nuts trying to find it. So I started at the battery and starting cleaning and putting dielectric grease on all connections followin the red power wire.......finally found one place where the red wire was corroded and burnt......I added a wire to jump it around the connector and all was fine......with a bike that is over 25 years old you will find loose, burnt connections
Ed
Ed
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