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Hi Everyone. Well I finally got my 1200 LTD from Rusty and it is a beautiful bike. The only problem is it is only charging at the battery with my handheld meter around 12.8V at 3000RPM. I have checked the stator between the three pairs and found continuity on all 3. Checked each yellow wire to gound and no continuity. Ran the bike and got 40-45AC volts. Seems a little low but from what I have read in the forum the reading can be as low as 40 and as high as 70. The three stator wires have already been soldered as well as at the R/R . I also installed a EC wiring harness. As well as this morning cut the red and the red/white wire at the starter solenoid and put a 30amp fuse in line and hooked to the positive post of the battery. Nothing seems to be getting hot just low voltage. Where else can I look or is it time to replace the stator. Oh yes it does have a new R/R Rusty sent it to me and yes it is one for the LTD.



It doesn't seem to make a difference what I do I am getting the same thing as when I started.:?One more thing after a ride the charging is around 12V with my digital meter. The oneon the dash seems to be about1V low compared to whats at the battery.

Hope someone can steer me in the right direction or some direction:). Love this site I have already tried many of the remidies suggested so I'm out of ideas :shock::shock:. Thanks in advance for your help. Rex
 

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there is a wire from the regulator that checks the voltage at the battery so it regulates the output... there is a mod to wire it directly to the battery for an accurate reading, try that. the guide is @ vics forum www.gl1200goldwings.com
 

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When you put in the ec harness did you wire the black wire to the bike or leave it off? That black wire has to go to the regulator I think. If you left it off Ill look to see where I wired mine and let you know.



Jack
 

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Hi William and Jack, The black wire on the harness according to the instructions provided from EC went to a ground. It had a spaded terminal so I bolted it to the frame.

All the other wires went to the reg.;3 yellow to3 yellow on reg, 2 reds to 2 reds on reg, and 2 greens to the 2 greens on reg. The black wire on the reg went to a black green wire already in the bikes harness. I couldn't find the mod at the other site William what would I search for? Also will that help the low charging or hopefully make the dash voltmeter read closer to the battery's actual state. Thanks for your help
 

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The 12.8 sounds a bit low but my experience is with a 1200 Interstate and it has a smaller stator and as you indicate, different R/R. Voltmeter readingscan vary unless the meter is calibrated.
 

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Hi Len thanks for your reply. Yes the low voltage is my main concern. I have gone over this site and have done all the mods I can find. I am just picking your brains to see where else to go from here.
 

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What output do you get at idle? Generally the stator should put out more (ideally around 14v) when idling and cut back as you increase the revs.
 

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I don:t know if you can try this..my 86 SEi was having voltage problems. Did the wire thing, replaced the Reg. and come to find out it was the radio noise filter that plugs into the voltage reg. Once removed the problem solved. Not sure if your LTD has this filter. Good Luck..
 

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exr1, this may sound like it's too simple,but, I know someone who tried it and it was the culprit. Put fresh batteries in your meter and check it again. My buddy was in a fix and it turned out the batteries WERE low in his meter..it's worth a shot..if it dosen't help just run me over next time you see me!...JK...
 

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At idle it is around 11.8V . I don't believe the radio suppressor is there on my LTD but I will check again. Because The wires are all wired into the new EC wiring harness and not the original harness. I will replace the batteries and see if that makes a difference. Hope so. Thanks again



I really want to ride but worried about being stranded. Hopefully will get the problem soved soon.
 

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All - thanks for replies so far. I sold this bike, and as of the last time I rode it, it wasn't producing numbers this low. :(

Seems to me something has degraded, corroded or changed some how.

I know my Interstate has a radio filter, I think it's a standard requirement on the bike with the Panasonic radio.

Would pulling "unnecessary" fuses be a good start to identifying a possibly over-drawing component?
 

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Bladerunner2, Thanks I will try that. It has been a while since I changed the batteries the display is clear but who knows. I promise I won't run you over if I see you LOL .:D:D:D
 

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Well I've tried a couple of the suggestion. 1) Replace batteries in meter didn't help but worth a try thanks.

2) Took out fuses as Rusty suggested . Charging at 14.3V. Replaced fuses one by one. OK until I get to the headlight and the taillights. Voltage drops dramatically. If one or the other is in I am at 12.8V when both are in 12.2V.



Can I replace the tail lights and side markers with LED's will that help?

What can I do about the headlight circuit. Do you think there is a ground problem?

Thanks Rex
 

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Also headlights are nice and bright. So I don't think there is a ground issue. All fuses are the right amperage. Its starting to look like the stator just doesn't have enough output. Remember the AC voltage test only produced 40-45 AC volts at 3000RPM. What do you all think. Rex
 

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I think you've answered the question. Low stator out-put. I change my stator several years ago and was only getting 50/53vac. I went so far as to wire a toggle switch into the low-beam circuit so as to have less draw when starting and prolonged low rpm use.



The bike was always a fast start, and after the stator change I was getting 14.2vdc to the battery at as low as 1700 rpm.



I went over and cleaned evry connection and ground I could find in the wiring, and I don't run any extras except a 25 watt am/fm stereo.



But even after the statorchange and the switch install my headlight and dash would dim when the brakes were applied at stops. This spring I installed the tower style LED's in the rear for brake/running lights. >>>NO MORE DIMMING @ STOPS...



My opinion, the 1200 series was just grossly under powered electricalllyfrom the get-go. I think my replacementstator was on the low side ofaverage. The Wing still runs great, but IF and when it dies again all I can say is "POOR BOY"... :gunhead:
 

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just did the poor boy and that's the only way to go.
 

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exr1, 40-45vac per leg does seem a louch low as mine tested @ 70.1 vac per leg with the engine at 3000rpm.



2 questions for ya: 1, what does the your voltmeter show while the bike is revved to about 3000rpm?



1, Are your brake lights on, ie: a stuck switch! Yeah I know that's simple but mine'll drop to about 12.8vdc while she's idling and I have the brakes on!



Check that and let us know!! Good luck with her!!
 

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Install a relay in your headlight circuit. The relay is just a heavy duty switch that hooks your headlignt directly to the battery instead of through the wiring harness. Takes the strain off the harness.
 

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Hi All, Thanks for the replies. I did check on the brake lights they were not on but a good thought cause I hadn't looked at them before to see if they were stuck on. I am getting 12.2V at 3000RPM. And yes I believe it is time for a "poorboy " also. I have ordered a 2025 east coast alternator and have started the disassembly. Thanks everyone for your help. I had written to Don for a price on his kit but haven't got a response yet. So I guess I will do like SKOTO1 and fabricate my own. I will take pictures during and after the install to show how it went. I know I have to worry about the TPS since it is a LTD what other considerations do I have to watch out for? Thanks Rex
 
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