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i'm trying to remove my muffler on my goldwing .i have the bolts out and the clamps loosened.needing to put gasket in at the muffler and the pipes it is what i call a donut gasket put not sure of rhe name. i don't have many goldwing people around me . merry christmas to all of the most wonderful group of people in the goldwings. thanks for all the help in the past.
 

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So let's get to it so we can figure out what you've done, and the question at hand.....


Click on this:

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmo...gl1200i-gold-wing-interstate/o/m2345#sch37102

You're saying - if I get it right - you've removed the exhaust headers (Items 4 and 9), and removed the gaskets (7), and you're wanting to remove the rest of the whole assembly (2).

Did I get it right, or did I get it wrong?
 

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The mufflers are held in place by the clamps to the header pipes and the mounting bolts through the passenger floorboards. The headers by the header exhaust studs i the engine heads and the same clamps at the joint to the mufflers.

You have four crush seals at the headers, and two seals at the center clamps.
 

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Trying to read between the lines:

Your trying to remove the mufflers from the exhaust in order to replace the gaskets?

I doubt your going to do that without lowering the headers and doing one side at a time.

One has to remove the engine guards to lower the headers if you have running boards rather than foot pegs, they have to come off too.

spray wd40 or some other penetrating oil on the header nuts and after a suitable time remove the nuts.

lower the headers, twist and pull forward.

After inspecting the clamp as to which way it goes back on remove the clamp, remove what is left of the gaskets.

Clean the areas where the gaskets go in the mufflers (you may need to open the inlets a little to allow the gaskets in.

Clean off any remaining gasket material off the headers, slide while rotating the headers back into the mufflers.

Coat all threads with never seize on assy.

While you have the mufflers loose you can remove them, inspect, clean rust off and repaint non chrome sections with heat resistant paint.
 

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i have the clamps loosen and the bolts out at the foot pegs .but i dont have the bolts off at the headers.do i need to do this also
 

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shortywing wrote:
i have the clamps loosen and the bolts out at the foot pegs .but i dont have the bolts off at the headers.do i need to do this also
Yes.
The previous butcher of my bike cut the crossover to remove the muffler but short of that you drop the whole system out.
 

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i'm trying to replace the gaskets at muffler.does all of the exhaust need to come down to remove the muffler so i can replace the gaskets. i can move the the muffler a litte but it still will not come off. i was thinking that it will slid off after i removed the bolts and loosen the clamps
 

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shortywing wrote:
i'm trying to replace the gaskets at muffler.does all of the exhaust need to come down to remove the muffler so i can replace the gaskets. i can move the the muffler a litte but it still will not come off. i was thinking that it will slid off after i removed the bolts and loosen the clamps
Did you remove the rear hanger bolts #15 also as well as the front bolts #14?

http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_image_popup.asp?fveh=3443&section=146270&year=1985&make=HONDA&category=MOTORCYCLES&dc=2291&name=MUFFLER
 

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How about inner fender? Or anything back there?
 

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I studied it when I replaced my muffler and there is no way on Dogs Grey Earth that the muffler can be removed without major butchery or dropping the header pipes.
 

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There you go, drop em!
 

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Put back #15 both sides, not all the way in, just 3 or 4 turns, just to release the weight of the eaxhaust system on the pipes.

Take out the fairing lowers.

Take out the engine guards.

Now you can remove #13 on the bike bandit diagram (8 nuts) If the stud comes out instead of just the nut, don't worry, it's all good (as long as it doesn't snap)

THEN the front will be able to drop. If the tail of the muffler hits the saddlebags, put something under the exhaust pipes, so they don't drop that far, and remove #15, which will drop the whole thing.

OR do one side at a time (which I wouldn't do) by removing 4 nuts, spinning pulling on the pipe until it comes off, replacing the graphite seal between the pipes and the muffler, with the mufler IN SITE.

I prefer to remove the muffler and pipes. Clean everything with a wire brush Removing all rust encrustation (plumber wire brush is great for the muffler side) Widden the clamp gaps with a large screw driver(no more than necessary). Make sure everything fits outside before mounting it on the bike.

When pulling out or pushing in the pipe in the muffler, spin it back and forth avoiding to "bend" the connection otherwise you will damage the graphite seal.

To put it back together, same thing, start by "balancing the muffler on #15 (both).

Carefully spin & push the pipes, one side at a time, once they are all the way in, line them up with the head exhaust holes. Put just one nut (#13) on each side with only 3 or 4 turns, because you might have to release the pipes a bit to get the engine guards in (specyally the left one with the starter and the shifter right there. The right one goes in easily if you spin it clock wise 90 degrees while geting it in.

Torque #13 first at 13 ft/lbs If you re-use your copper gaskets, try to put them in the same location/orientation where they came from.

Now that the pipes are torqued back in, with the muffler in place, try to lift the joint where the clamp is, just to get rid of the slack. When the pipe is all the way in the muffler seal, it is very strong, you won't brake it, plus the pipe side isn't going anywhere beacuse it's already "fixed" to the head. While lifting the joint torque down the clamps, alternating between the two bolts on the same side. Torque them down to 16 ft/lbs (#14 on bike bandit's diagrams), again going back and forth untill they both "click" your torque wrench at 16 ft/lbs.

Install your engine guards torquing the lower (side to side thread) at 43 ft/lbs. Lower front at 25 ft/lbs and the upper U-clamps at 9 ft/lbs.

#15 torque is 30 ft/lbs and you're almost done except for the lower fairings. I wouldn't install the lowers: Take her for a now quiet spin. Sinc those carbs, and now go for a quiet and smooth ride. THEN install the lowers.

This is how I do it (no guarantees implied), and the advise you are getting is worth what you are paying for it. But if it helps you, please donate to keep this place running.
 

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Bufallowing wrote:
Put back #15 both sides, not all the way in, just 3 or 4 turns, just to release the weight of the eaxhaust system on the pipes.

Take out the fairing lowers.

Take out the engine guards.

Now you can remove #13 on the bike bandit diagram (8 nuts) If the stud comes out instead of just the nut, don't worry, it's all good (as long as it doesn't snap)

THEN the front will be able to drop. If the tail of the muffler hits the saddlebags, put something under the exhaust pipes, so they don't drop that far, and remove #15, which will drop the whole thing.

OR do one side at a time (which I wouldn't do) by removing 4 nuts, spinning pulling on the pipe until it comes off, replacing the graphite seal between the pipes and the muffler, with the mufler IN SITE.

I prefer to remove the muffler and pipes. Clean everything with a wire brush Removing all rust encrustation (plumber wire brush is great for the muffler side) Widden the clamp gaps with a large screw driver(no more than necessary). Make sure everything fits outside before mounting it on the bike.

When pulling out or pushing in the pipe in the muffler, spin it back and forth avoiding to "bend" the connection otherwise you will damage the graphite seal.

To put it back together, same thing, start by "balancing the muffler on #15 (both).

Carefully spin & push the pipes, one side at a time, once they are all the way in, line them up with the head exhaust holes. Put just one nut (#13) on each side with only 3 or 4 turns, because you might have to release the pipes a bit to get the engine guards in (specyally the left one with the starter and the shifter right there. The right one goes in easily if you spin it clock wise 90 degrees while geting it in.

Torque #13 first at 13 ft/lbs If you re-use your copper gaskets, try to put them in the same location/orientation where they came from.

Now that the pipes are torqued back in, with the muffler in place, try to lift the joint where the clamp is, just to get rid of the slack. When the pipe is all the way in the muffler seal, it is very strong, you won't brake it, plus the pipe side isn't going anywhere beacuse it's already "fixed" to the head. While lifting the joint torque down the clamps, alternating between the two bolts on the same side. Torque them down to 16 ft/lbs (#14 on bike bandit's diagrams), again going back and forth untill they both "click" your torque wrench at 16 ft/lbs.

Install your engine guards torquing the lower (side to side thread) at 43 ft/lbs. Lower front at 25 ft/lbs and the upper U-clamps at 9 ft/lbs.

#15 torque is 30 ft/lbs and you're almost done except for the lower fairings. I wouldn't install the lowers: Take her for a now quiet spin. Sinc those carbs, and now go for a quiet and smooth ride. THEN install the lowers.

This is how I do it (no guarantees implied), and the advise you are getting is worth what you are paying for it. But if it helps you, please donate to keep this place running.
All great except you need to replace the 4 exhaust manifold donuts before reinstalling.
 

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When I had to pull my engine. I was thinking about those gaskets, main drive seal, rear cover seal, etc. I asked "Sensei GLGreezeemonki" he told me not to worry about those. Only to replace the rear cover seal. I knew I could make that one once I had the cover out for less than the $47 Honda wanted. When I pulled the rear cover, that seal came out in one piece, so I didn't even had to make one. I guess I should have scanned the thing on PDF format to be able to make one before taking out the cover next time.

Anyways, going back to the copper exhaust gaskets, donut seals, or whatever you want to call them. I reused mine, like Sensei recommended, No leaks. So on my previous post I suggested that IF he was going to re-use them, at least keep them in the same place and not turn them up-side-down.(About the middle of the post)

Of course Mother Honda recommends replacing those EVERY TIME you drop the exhaust. I didn't and the bike runs as quiet as when I replaced the muffler (back then I used new ones) about 5K miles ago.
 
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