[tprender]

I came across an '86 that had been setting for 4 years for a good price with low miles. First thing that I did was change the fuel lines before I even tried to start it, could only get it to idle with the chock on. So, I have taken the carbs off to clean them. Not as dirty as I though they would be. One of the slides was not moving and 2 of the slow jets was clogged. But, when I went to take out the air screws on the side, 3 of them came right out the 4th has a cap or there is no air screw there. But, the question that I am asking is that I found no washer or o-ring on the 3 screws that I took out, just springs. The Haynes book that I have shows them in the picture in the book. Did the '86 not have them or has these been taken apart already? Also, 2 of the screws were 4 turns out and the other was only 1 1/2 turns out. When I put it together I will set them at 2 turns out. Do, I need to take the cap off of the 4th one and see if there is a air screw under the cap or let sleeping dogs lie?
Is it OK to put this back together with the washers and the no o-rings?

 

[newday777]

Welcome to the forum tprender
It sounds like someone has been monkeying with those carbs. You are missing parts.
The carbs need to be totally dismantalled to clean properly by boiling them then shoot with Carb cleaner. That will get all the tiny passages clean.(lots)
Get a new Napa gas filter, #3011 @$5.
Go to Randall site under tech tips for gl1200.
And buy rebuild kits from them, not the cheap fleebay kits.

 

[dizzy]

1200's came original with 'blind plugs' over mixture screws. To access the screws, drill a small hole in the middle of the plug and use sheet metal screw/slidehammer to remove. The washers and orings tend to stick in the carb when the screw and spring come out. I use a cotter with the tip bent to 'fish em' out. All carbs have a mixture screw. I always remove them when I do carbs with rare exceptions. I prefer the OE gasket sets...they're pretty cheap for 1200's and usually come with everything I need. I've found the standard mixture screw setting to be way lean, more to meet emissions than drivability. I usually start around 3 turns out and fine tune them by ear after a test ride...seems I more often end up around 3.5 turns for the best idle.

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

+1 on everything Dizzy said. Especially the OEM parts part.
Obviously, the man has been into some GL12 carbs.

If your local dealer is uncooperative, or you don't have a local place, www.westernhonda.com will get you the kits for a good price, and they are good people to deal with.
Oh, and welcome to the forum.

 

[tprender]

Took the cap off of the 4th air screw and there was a washer and o-ring in there. Will go up to my local parts store and get 3 more. I have cleaned the carbs real good, i think.
Read about using Pine-Sol to soak the carbs and it will not hurt any of the rubber parts that I forgot to take out. I left the carbs all together on the center rack. I am not taking that, apart. I will have parts left over when I get done.
I have been working on M/C for over 40 years, and I hate to work on carbs. My ears are gone, so I have to find someone else to do the adjustment, can't hear the small difference in the rpm's. This will be my 3rd wing to bring back from the dead.
I am putting in new timing belts this weekend while I wait on the rest of the carb parts to come in the mail. Want to get it running before I work on the rest of the things that need to be fixed, fork seals and one rear shock seal.