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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just did a Poorboy Conversion and everything is disassembled for painting and final assembly. Everything went really well even though there is just enough space for everything with just enough clearance everywhere. I even found room for the second horn. I searched the threads on wiring but I am still not convinced on what is needed and not needed.

I have one wire from the alternator output to the battery side of the starter solenoid. One wire from the alternator ignition terminal to a switched power source. Stator wires have been unplugged and separately capped off. The alternator has a good ground.

OK, what do I do with the regulator/rectifier? Should I unplug it or leave it plugged in?

Am I missing anything else?

Scott
 

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Here's how I hooked mine up. I removed the regulator/rectifier entirely, it was fried anyways.

Wiring at battery. 8GA wire and 1/4" 8GA ring terminals purchased at car audio shop. 50A autoreset breaker (USA made for over twice the cost of China made) at auto parts store. The breaker mounts right where the big melted stator connector used to be - I drilled one mounting hole at the end towards the battery. Connectors are soldered and heat shrunk. Stator wires are clipped short, have pieces of heatshrink to insulate the ends, and are tucked out of the way.



This is where I got excite power for the alternator. The black wire where the regulator used to plug in is hot when the ignition is on. 15A inline fuse. Heatshrink on the cable splice and crimped ends.



Alternator excite voltage wire goes to the BOTTOM of the three connectors at the rear of the alt.

 

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Alaskan Explorer on a Valk
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On my conversion I just unplugged the regulater plug and used the black wire to run my alternator. If belt brakes or other problem I hope to just hook the reg plug back up to get me back home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies guys. The bottom radiator hose looked like it was going to be a problem. I found 1" heater hose, sold by the foot, it was a perfect fit. Instead of bending the fan mount bracket I used spacers between the fan and the mount. Bending the bracket would have put the bracket right in the path of the belt.

Scott
 

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remove the regulator and resell it to help pay for cost of "poorboy" conversion,seldom have i ever heard of anyone with problem with the alternator
easy enough to reuse area to mount something like relays,etc
 

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Should I disconnect the stator wires ? I installed the Poorboy kit and removed the factory voltage regulator but left the stator wires connected.
 

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The only reason I ask is because I installed a voltage gauge on the bike. Had it hooked up to the battery always read between 13.5-14.5v then I hooked it up to the fuse block and it reads 12.5-13.5 v I've checked it to be accurate but not sure why the fuse block would be a volt lower ? Also the two 55w driving lights I installed when put them on. They drain the volts down to 12.3 at idle and 12.8 at cruise.
 

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fastymz,dont know why guage reads low but i'd find a better spot to connect to,unless your alternator is just not working correctly,mine charges at 13.2 idle at a stoplight with two 55W lights running,14.1-.2 anything above idle
monetarily change wiring to sensing wire to the battery to see if the readings change,if so find a better key-on spot to run the sensing wire from
 

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I'm perplexed on how to fix it? I've tested all the fuse block key sources and they all text lower then direct from battery? With spot lights on the bike runs and idles fine just volts read low. Nothing else dims or changes turning on and off spot lights. I've tested the voltage with two different testers and two different voltage gauges all show the same results?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm perplexed on how to fix it? I've tested all the fuse block key sources and they all text lower then direct from battery? With spot lights on the bike runs and idles fine just volts read low. Nothing else dims or changes turning on and off spot lights. I've tested the voltage with two different testers and two different voltage gauges all show the same results?
That voltage drop is caused by switches and connections and almost 30 years of oxidation besides. A voltage drop should be expected, even if the bike was brand new.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Run a wire from the battery to a relay and control the relay from the ACC problem solved

Like the previous post says, poor connections due to age = voltage drop
That would be a great fix. You could use the same relay to power your coils for more voltage at your coils. :bow:

Scott
 
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