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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can't buy a new radiator as it is discontinued. What do I need to do to fix one of these 2 radiators I have.
 

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killer driller
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781 Posts
What is wrong with the two radiators, are the cores bad or the tanks need more info
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bike starts getting hot after about 10-15 miles as soon as I get in town temp goes up. Fan works, Pump works. I have flushed radiator twice with little change just made it stay cool longer not much. Last bike had same problem and I blew the engine by really overheating it but hey got home and now I have a parts bike.
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think the core needs cleaned there does not seem to be a leak. I'm still learning though.
 

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Premium Member
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6,319 Posts
You can take it to a radiator shop and have it boiled out. If it's not leaking or bent up if the radiator is the problem it must be partly clogged.
Only 3 reasons a radiator does not work well as it should.
It's leaking and not holding pressure, or it's clogged and not letting the coolent flow properly, or the fins are mostly bent or full of bugs so air can not flow through properly.
Have you looked for excess bugs in the fins? LOL
Though kinda joking I have seen it be the problem on some cars and trucks. I bought one cheap once the owner said he replaced everything and it still over heated all the time and he showed me the receipts of all the money he had spent on everything at a shop. I found about a million bugs in the radiator fins, plugged nearly solid! So it happens at times.

Are you sure it's not a bad pressure cap not letting it build pressure as it should.
Have you replaced the thermostat? It could be not opening all the way perhaps. Letting enough coolant flow to stay cool at higher speeds but blocking enough to overheat at low speeds or sitting.

Running highway and faster rpms everything stays cooler and coolant flows faster, city driving of course when most needed the coolant flows slower and everything is hotter having no wind.
 

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Premium Member
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I've not been working on 1200's, do they have 1 or 2 fans?
The 1500's have 2 fans, if one is not working a 1500 will over heat if sitting idling much.
My 88 1 fan was wired to a manual switch and if I forgot to flip it on in heavy slow traffic or a drive through I'd start to over heat some. Never needed that second fan on highway though no mater how hot it was out.
When hearing the one fan kicked on you would just think the fans were working, but it was only 1 one them.

I think you only have one fan, but thought I'd toss that out there anyway, and maybe someone with a 1500 will find it useful LOL
 

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Premium Member
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2,163 Posts
Bike starts getting hot after about 10-15 miles as soon as I get in town temp goes up. Fan works, Pump works.
I don't read that it's overheating, only that it runs hot.
Does the fan just come on, or does it cycle on and off?
And what else have you done lately with the cooling system?
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not over heating yet thank God. New thermostat, 2 flushes, looked at pump, saw water moving at top of radiator with cap off, felt upper hose pulsing with cap on. Fan comes on (only one Fan) well before it gets half way on temp gauge. Fan cycles at first then stays on after a ride of a few miles. Fins look fair on both radiators not pugged not new either.

Maybe I should have my spare radiator boiled out, pressure checked, new cap? before I install it.
 

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Administrator
1987 GL1200 Interstate
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23,322 Posts
You don't say which model you have, but...
...the Interstates have a needle that climbs nearly to the red mark before the fan comes on. When compared to 3 friend's Aspencades, my bike's fan was coming on about the same time as the Aspy's, in the same riding conditions. This was back when all the bikes were new, and their gauges were not showing the bikes to be hot.
 

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Premium Member
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A slow accumulation of heat, and the inability to remove it does suggest a partially plugged radiator. Most rad shops will flow check it for next to nothing. No sense in pressure testing it if it doesn't leak.
Generally a bad cap continues to allow flow to the recovery bottle.
What is your rad cap/recovery bottle "doing"?
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
gl1200i used to stay a lot cooler. I just want to ride but don't want to over heat this bike like I did the last one.
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Over flow staying normal level.
 

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Premium Member
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as others have said could be the cap,thermostat,even a sensitive fanswitch,maybe even a water pump,but i'd start with having the radiator cleaned and start from there,you are just wasting your time chasing the little things if the radiator is the main culprit
 

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Premium Member
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Have you used an infrared sensor to determine if it is actually over heating or are you relying on the gauge to give you the information.
The sending unit could be faulty.
 

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It aint rocket science
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Water pumps are designed to suck water.

There is an off chance if you have non standard or worn radiator hoses, bottom first and foremost that it is collapsing at higher RPM's blocking flow.

If it can easily be pinched together it would deserve a second look.
 

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Just Winging It
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3,327 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Great ideas ya'll. I don't have an infrared sensor but she feels hot to me when I stop. Hose seemed stiff enough when I took it off to change thermostat and change timing belts.

What is the best way to get the radiator clean?
 

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Premium Member
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Great ideas ya'll. I don't have an infrared sensor but she feels hot to me when I stop. Hose seemed stiff enough when I took it off to change thermostat and change timing belts.
If it were just an indication problem, the cooling fans would cycle normally. You say they come on and stay on. If that's the case, then the thermo switch AND the gauge are faulty?
If it reads hot, and the fans stay on, then it is hot.
Take your stand-by radiator to a radiator shop and have it FLOW tested. Then install it.
 

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Just Winging It
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3,327 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If it were just an indication problem, the cooling fans would cycle normally. You say they come on and stay on. If that's the case, then the thermo switch AND the gauge are faulty?
If it reads hot, and the fans stay on, then it is hot.
Take your stand-by radiator to a radiator shop and have it FLOW tested. Then install it.
What's the difference between flow test and boiling out? What kind of flow is good?
perhaps these answers will become self evident.
boiling out may spring leak.
water from the hose flows through I think. could try should flow that fast probably faster. not sure
what about rod and core?
 

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Premium Member
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Rod out costs money. Boiling out costs money.
A reputable shop will flow test before any repair. If there is little or restricted flow, then action needs to be taken. If not, it's generally a "no charge", and you're good to go.
I use Performance Radiator. I think they're nationwide. Let them make the decision.
But remember, the radiator you're taking in, is NOT the one you have a problem with.
If changing radiators solves your concern, then the original radiator needs attention.
If a "good flowing " radiator doesn't correct the problem, you can look somewhere else.
 

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Vintage Rider
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2,410 Posts
I removed my radiator, took a gallon jug of water, and poured it into the neck as fast as I could without it "glugging", it came out of the radiator as fast as it went in. I had a serious overheating problem, but it happened quickly after starting the engine, while idling. The gauge went all the way to the red zone, and the radiator cap opened and coolant started blowing out. I checked and tried everything. Last thing I did was to fill it through the drain (from the bottom up) with a pressure pump. Hasn't overheated since. Never confirmed the problem, but I suspect air was trapped in there somewhere, and wasn't coming out.

I have the digital dash, and mine runs at 6 bars, no matter what the ambient temperature, with or without the thermostat. That is where the fan comes on.
 
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