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Vintage Rider
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Ok, I just found another problem with my bike, but apparently this one is not specific to the LTD. I removed the rear wheel, and the flange with the splines on it, and the wheel bearing just fell out. They were very loose (only on the drive side, the brake side is fine). They were also installed backwards, with the open side facing out. There is a ridge around the outside edge of where the bearing goes that you can feel with your fingernail. I am assuming that was caused by the bearing being loose and the race turning in the wheel. If that is the case, the wheel may be ruined. I don't see any obvious signs of damage, nothing is chewed up, and there is no uneven wear on the wheel or the bearing.

I read in the Clymer manual that some '84 and '85 models had a problem with the rear bearing being too loose on the right rear wheel, and Honda issued a recall on it. It seems their answer was to replace the bearing with one slightly larger in diameter. But that was back when the bikes were new. This bearing has likely been in there for 93,000 miles. Has anybody else run into this problem, and if so were you able to find a bearing that fit properly? Jerry.
 

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Yep, I just did a lot of searching, and found that the wheel will either have to be replaced (meaning the replacement might not be any better than what I have) or the wheel can be machined, and have a spacer installed so the original size bearing will fit. This seems to be the best way to go. I need to find a local machine shop that can do this.
 

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JerryH wrote:
Ok, I just found another problem with my bike, but apparently this one is not specific to the LTD. I removed the rear wheel, and the flange with the splines on it, and the wheel bearing just fell out. They were very loose (only on the drive side, the brake side is fine). They were also installed backwards, with the open side facing out. There is a ridge around the outside edge of where the bearing goes that you can feel with your fingernail. I am assuming that was caused by the bearing being loose and the race turning in the wheel. If that is the case, the wheel may be ruined. I don't see any obvious signs of damage, nothing is chewed up, and there is no uneven wear on the wheel or the bearing.

I read in the Clymer manual that some '84 and '85 models had a problem with the rear bearing being too loose on the right rear wheel, and Honda issued a recall on it. It seems their answer was to replace the bearing with one slightly larger in diameter. But that was back when the bikes were new. This bearing has likely been in there for 93,000 miles. Has anybody else run into this problem, and if so were you able to find a bearing that fit properly? Jerry.
:doh:

Jerry were'd u get that thing!
 

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Vintage Rider
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Craigslist. And don't be surprised if it shows up back on there, probably as a parts bike. In all fairness, this problem was a well known factory defect, and affected a large number of '84 and '85 models. ALL of the splines were perfect, showed no wear at all, and all the dampers in the wheel are like new. Just need to find a place to fix it. But I think this project needs to go on the back burner for awhile. I am getting behind on a lot of other things working on it. I do have other bikes to ride.
 

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JerryH wrote:
I read in the Clymer manual that some '84 and '85 models had a problem with the rear bearing being too loose on the right rear wheel, and Honda issued a recall on it. It seems their answer was to replace the bearing with one slightly larger in diameter. But that was back when the bikes were new. This bearing has likely been in there for 93,000 miles. Has anybody else run into this problem, and if so were you able to find a bearing that fit properly? Jerry.
Jerry, the Clymer manual is wrong.:shock: The warranty not recall was replacing the wheel and driven flange with a 86-87 style. The part number your manual gives is not a larger bearing but as I said a new wheel.

Yes the bearing bore can be machined and sleeved for the stock bearing or even machined larger and deeper for an over size bearing but either way you have less support in the wheel for the bearing.
 

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Here's the 86A steel collr rear hub fix by Honda. My 84 interstate rear wheel had the first band-aid fix=a metal cap surround over the outer bearing hub that was staked down on top of the hub and thus, Honda was still searching for the final answer.



I have the oem 1985 Road Rider "Special Consumer Report" on the 84-85 hub problem via Hondas search for more GVW weight and why 75-82 spoke/comstar wheels never created a problem ?_____?????

The first click/clack problem was on the 1975 gl1000 rear wheel/hub=dissimilar metal.

The 2nd click /clack rear wheel problem was on the 1980 1100= misaligned/welded swingarm flange mount to rear end-I'm an expert on this problem.

The 3rd was the introduction of the 1983 gl1100 cast mags.

The gl1200 rear wheel/stator problem is legendary @ great cost to Big Red:<;)
 

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Vintage Rider
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So does the '86 rear wheel fit the '84 and '85 gearcase? If it does, my guess is that there are no '86 wheels to be found anywhere, they would have all been used th fix this problem.

I found a place that can fix the damaged '85 wheel for only $50, but he is in Canada. I would have to ship the wheel there, then pay for having it shipped back. Hardly seems worthwhile. I'm sure I can find a place around locally that can do it, either machine it and sleeve it for the stock '85 bearing, or machine it out to fit a larger bearing. I could buy an eBay wheel, but might have the same problem.
 

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All 1200 series rear wheels interchange. When you check ebay, make sure you view the hub side for the updated FIX.

I've heard of Lester mags having the same problem on the gl1000.
 

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Jerry, I had the same problem with my '84 this summer. I found an '87 wheel that was in very good condition and also a 1986 driven flange. The two things that I can say to you is to be sure to see the rubber bushings in the used wheel. If they are worn out, the wheel is ruined. The other thing is that a 1984-85 driven flange will not fit the '86-87 wheels because the hub is smaller on the '84 wheel. The '84-85 hub is 60mm in diameter and the '86-87 hub is 65mm. These wheels are available on EBay.

It is posible to get a new bearing, pack the hub with a little J-B weld and install it and let it set overnight. The weld should keep the race from turning. Cheap, but effective. That is what I would try because the wheel bushings and driven flange splines are good. I think that it would work just fine.

Bobby
 

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I emailed Bob Henshaw, I was told he would sell just the spacer he made to fix the wheel, once it was machined. Once I have the spacer, it will already be the correct inside diameter, and the outside diameter will give a machine shop a measurement so they can machine the hub for a press fit. Still haven't found a local machine shop that will work on an aluminum motorcycle wheel.
 

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I just drove out the left side bearing. It was in there nice and tight. I noticed it is larger in diameter than the right side bearing. Is it possible to machine the right hub enough to install a left side bearing, or would that require taking off to much metal?
 

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Jerry. The 85 mag tech article calls the left bearing a coaster bearing, with 80% of the load shock transmitted to the inner hub bearing, and thus the problem.

The rear wheel is off set to the left from the preferred center axis line to front wheel as per earlier wings. As Honda moved up the Gvw over the years, they continually moved the rear wheel off center to the left. If you ran a straight edge off your rear tire to the front, you would see the difference.
 

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Say, what, CWN. Honda may have moved the right bearing to the left but no way are the wheels runningtwo different lines. If you have a bike doing that, something is wrong.
Bobby
 

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Common practice, less few know about it :<)
 

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Junior Grue
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CWN wrote:
Common practice, less few know about it :<;)
Can you provide a link to this article as I believe you've misinterpreted it?
I believe what it talked about was an offset of the bearings from the centre line of the wheel where the right bearing is closer to centre and takes more load not an offset of the rear wheel itself.:?
 

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Jerry, I'd take Ceasefire up on his offer. At least borrow the wheel. That will let you take your time and fix yours correctly.
Oh, and I remember that article CWN is talking about and I think he's quoting it correctly.
The people writing the article may have been mistaken too.
 

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I'm sure I'm quoting the mag article correctly. I still haven't found the mag yet but it's here.

Dennis. I remember Wings of Phoenix when I was in my prime with Gwrra back then. I attended Wing Ding 79-80-81 in Phoenix. Great times :
 

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i have one from an '86 that has spun also,i am going to repair it using permatex sleeve retainer part #765-1149 at napa and then stake the surrounding area with a small punch,a friend in a machine shop has successfully done this with other similar repairs on cars
 
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