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I am a first time wing owner, I have a 1984 1200 A, I have read articles about the stator yellow wires getting hot, mine are to and I'm going to solder and heat shrink them, I tested the stator and it's putting out the proper voltage, what I want to know is can you check the regulator without the bike running to see if its good? Sort of a bench test.with an ohm meter
 

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Here is a pdf file of tests to make on the regulator with your ohmmeter. These would be good to make if you have trouble with it not holding the voltage at around 14 volts with engine at 2500-3000 rpm.
 

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Here is a pdf file of tests to make on the regulator with your ohmmeter. These would be good to make if you have trouble with it not holding the voltage at around 14 volts with engine at 2500-3000 rpm.
This pdf only shows how to test the diodes for leakage. It doesn't test the rectifier/regulator assy. As with most electronic devices, the best way to test is by replacing with a known good unit. I've found in 99% of the cases, eliminating everything else as suspect works pretty good too.:)
Having said that, a shorted/open negative diode will affect @5% of the output. A shorted/open positive diode @15%, so these tests are not without merit.
FYI, a shorted positive diode will allow battery voltage to back feed and is a fire danger.
 

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I always check the red/green harness side for power/ground as well. You can flunk reg/rect by testing the diodes and finding a fault. But all can test good and the reg/rect can still be failed. I've noticed problems with reg/rects can show up when hot. So I always test charging before and after a test ride. I agree the only sure way is replacing with a known good.
 
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