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Just did a carb cleaning to try and get GL1200 to run better at low RPM;s and to find out( while cleaning them ) my low speed jets were clean...put it back together and it appears to run just the way it did. It seems to run better once it warms up to two bars. The carb was all pretty clean. Next thing would be fuel filter?
 

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Just because the jets are clean doesn't mean the passages they feed are.:shock:
 

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Ok...thanks ( I blew out all passages with air and carb cleaner). I did change the fuel filter and nothing changed. Could the carbs needs synchronized?
 

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syncing probably would help some,easy enough to do,its probably the only way to find out if it will help,otherwise you might be wasting time with things that dont help
 

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Fuel filter would have nothing to do with those symptoms. Sounds like you didn't scratch the carbs where they need to be 'itched'. Did you pull the mix screws to get at the slow circuit from that angle? Also I usually richen the screws quite a little or you end up with the same cold blooded, poor idling beast you started with. It's possible a slow jet is still partially clogged...I can't tell unless I inspect the holes with a magnifying glass. Slow circuit must be ABSOLUTELY clean or you'll have a poor idle.
 

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Fuel filter would have nothing to do with those symptoms. Sounds like you didn't scratch the carbs where they need to be 'itched'. Did you pull the mix screws to get at the slow circuit from that angle? Also I usually richen the screws quite a little or you end up with the same cold blooded, poor idling beast you started with. It's possible a slow jet is still partially clogged...I can't tell unless I inspect the holes with a magnifying glass. Slow circuit must be ABSOLUTELY clean or you'll have a poor idle.
Thanks...actually I am having a good strong idle now, just unresponsive low throttle ( not strong until higher RPM's and then flawless ). It will snort and miss at low idle like not getting enough gas and seems to get a little better as it warms up but still not right. That's why I thought fuel filter. Changed that today and still no improvement. Spark plugs or synchronize?
 

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It aint rocket science
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Individual carb air/fuel mixtures will effect manometer readings. Doing a sync with carb mixtures out of whack to one another just compounds a problem. This will often show up as a high minimum idle with one throttle plate already closed shut with the other three hanging open at various angles.

A properly tuned carb equipped engine should idle smoothly down to 500-625 RPM while backing off idle screw until the point throttle valves are basically closed cutting off air supply to engine. Idle mixture circuit typically under throttle plates.

Time for some detective work here by checking plug conditions (still the best way to determine how each cylinder is running) pulling plug wires for weak cylinders, determining if cylinder is running rich or lean, compression test and on and on.

Once you determine WHAT the problem is a successful repair can then be done.
 

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Junior Grue
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Individual carb air/fuel mixtures will effect manometer readings. Doing a sync with carb mixtures out of whack to one another just compounds a problem. This will often show up as a high minimum idle with one throttle plate already closed shut with the other three hanging open at various angles.
I have to disagree there but I do agree that low compression on one or more cylinders will throw out the synchronization.
 

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It aint rocket science
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I have to disagree there but I do agree that low compression on one or more cylinders will throw out the synchronization.
Difficult to see on sticks with the pulsing intake which is why mixture is set via idle drop. (And for emission purposes).

Automobiles would have mixture set via vacuum gauge for highest reading back in the day (no pulsing in their intakes) slightly lean or slightly rich would drop vacuum off optimum.
 

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Just did a carb cleaning to try and get GL1200 to run better at low RPM;s and to find out( while cleaning them ) my low speed jets were clean...put it back together and it appears to run just the way it did. It seems to run better once it warms up to two bars. The carb was all pretty clean. Next thing would be fuel filter?
Just wondering if you have been able to solve your low rpm stumble problem? I had the exact issue with my 1200 when I bought it and still do to some degree. Had a local bike mechanic look at it 2 years ago that said he knew of a fix for this problem on these older wings. What ever he did made a great improvement and I was very happy with it, but it still had to be fully warmed up (or very warm temps outside for it to run flawless). During summer months it still runs without the low rpm stumbling but in weather below say... 70 degrees it has to sit and warm up b4 running right. :?
 
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