Unless you isolate the solenoid from the frame the green/red wire is useless. You should have gotten the marine relay.
Perfect! If there is any issue it might be the start switch might not stand up to the increased draw of the bigger solenoid. Might never be an issue. Good job, but an insulated base solenoid would have been easier.That's a good idea about usage of the "I" connection, that is if one were to worry about not hearing the starter staying engaged. It's not a very loud sound, so I will strongly consider that option.
On the solenoid, I did isolate the base, and attached the clutch diode wire (green/red - ground) to the base. I also cut off the two mounting wings to make installation easier. The instructions do indicate "M" and "B" connections (stater and battery), so I connected them accordingly.
Did have to drill out the holes on the ring terminals that went to the battery and the starter to make them a tad bigger to fit on the larger posts on the new solenoid. I changed the other ring terminals that go to my key switch and accessories to larger ones, (I have the dogbone eliminated). The starter button wire and the ground clutch diode wire I had to cut loose from the connector and add ring terminals, of course.
Waiting on my replacement starter. But I can tell the solenoid is different. It's instantaneous in it's action and release. I've read a lot of good stuff about this solenoid. And also about the marine one, but not as much. Cars and trucks are in use more than boats may be the reason. In either case, both are much better by far than the cheap a.. solenoid I had on there. Just a note, never buy a cheap solenoid. Too many amps going through there.
Insulated base solenoids look like the solenoid with the "I" terminal except that there would not be an "I" printed on any terminal. the 2 small terminals are for the solenoid coil. One is the hot end while the other is the ground end of the coil. When you bolt it to metal it is insulated. (not grounded even though it is bolted to a ground) The insulated base solenoid would have been wired with the yellow/red on one terminal and the green/red on the other. Current would flow in the yellow/red wire, (hot) through the coil and out the green/red while the start button is pushed. If you are in neutral or have the clutch in the green/red wire would be grounded and complete the circuit for the solenoid coil to engage.Where is the ground for the green/red wire for the clutch diode safety stuff? The marine one was isolated, but it only had four connections. Would I have attached the ground to the "I" post?
Just wondering, I've already installed the Ford one.
The green/red is the same wire for both the clutch switch and the neutral switch, if not connected to one of the small terminals on the isolated base solenoid (or in the case of the ford solenoid if isolated) neither will work.The two smaller terminals are for the internal coil. You should connect the yellow/red and green/red to these terminals. If you don't connect the green/red to one of these, you will have to use the clutch lever every time you want to start the bike - the ground through the neutral switch will not work.
I have a Ford Napa STH404 starter solenoid to replace the cheap ones that keep causing me problems. My question is the connections.
Jim,Napa one is installed, no problem, just checking with everybody on the wiring. A little research revealed connections. The oem one http://www.saber-cycle.com/store/product298.html is $74. I hate to be taken advantage of. Evidently it wasn't very good or else it would have still been there. When I bought it, there was the cheap one already installed. Probably the original culprit was bad connections. Maybe the oem one is ok, I dunno. Anyway, it's done.
Thanks, just looked at schematic again. Attached picture.The green/red is the same wire for both the clutch switch and the neutral switch, if not connected to one of the small terminals on the isolated base solenoid (or in the case of the ford solenoid if isolated) neither will work.
I did some research and found the marine relay has an isolated base, therefore uses both terminals in the starting circuit, that's why I suggested it. Outboards have a neutral safety and my assumption is it grounds the relay just like on motorcycles.That marine solenoid does have an "I" printed on it, which to my understanding is just used to send a full 12 volts to the coil during starter cranking. I do not want to connect a ground to that circuit. I've extensively googled that "I" terminal and have never read that it is connected to a safety ground. It is always identified as going to the ignition coil, and carrying a full 12v. Hence the "I" label. Maybe other solenoids have different connections, but then they must also be labeled different.