[redwing52]

That's a good idea about usage of the "I" connection, that is if one were to worry about not hearing the starter staying engaged. It's not a very loud sound, so I will strongly consider that option.

On the solenoid, I did isolate the base, and attached the clutch diode wire (green/red - ground) to the base. I also cut off the two mounting wings to make installation easier. The instructions do indicate "M" and "B" connections (stater and battery), so I connected them accordingly.

Did have to drill out the holes on the ring terminals that went to the battery and the starter to make them a tad bigger to fit on the larger posts on the new solenoid. I changed the other ring terminals that go to my key switch and accessories to larger ones, (I have the dogbone eliminated). The starter button wire and the ground clutch diode wire I had to cut loose from the connector and add ring terminals, of course.

Waiting on my replacement starter. But I can tell the solenoid is different. It's instantaneous in it's action and release. I've read a lot of good stuff about this solenoid. And also about the marine one, but not as much. Cars and trucks are in use more than boats may be the reason. In either case, both are much better by far than the cheap a.. solenoid I had on there. Just a note, never buy a cheap solenoid. Too many amps going through there.

Perfect! If there is any issue it might be the start switch might not stand up to the increased draw of the bigger solenoid. Might never be an issue. Good job, but an insulated base solenoid would have been easier.

 

[redwing52]

Where is the ground for the green/red wire for the clutch diode safety stuff? The marine one was isolated, but it only had four connections. Would I have attached the ground to the "I" post?
Just wondering, I've already installed the Ford one.

Insulated base solenoids look like the solenoid with the "I" terminal except that there would not be an "I" printed on any terminal. the 2 small terminals are for the solenoid coil. One is the hot end while the other is the ground end of the coil. When you bolt it to metal it is insulated. (not grounded even though it is bolted to a ground) The insulated base solenoid would have been wired with the yellow/red on one terminal and the green/red on the other. Current would flow in the yellow/red wire, (hot) through the coil and out the green/red while the start button is pushed. If you are in neutral or have the clutch in the green/red wire would be grounded and complete the circuit for the solenoid coil to engage.

 

[redwing52]

Simple as can be. Nothing wrong with the way you have it now though.

 

[redwing52]

Napa one is installed, no problem, just checking with everybody on the wiring. A little research revealed connections. The oem one http://www.saber-cycle.com/store/product298.html is $74. I hate to be taken advantage of. Evidently it wasn't very good or else it would have still been there. When I bought it, there was the cheap one already installed. Probably the original culprit was bad connections. Maybe the oem one is ok, I dunno. Anyway, it's done.
Thanks everybody

Jim,
First of all NEVER buy from Sabre. She is a crook and lots of people here have had trouble including myself. If you look at the ad tied to the link, then read the reviews. That is not an OEM solenoid. The wires were reversed. Probably a $10 solenoid they sell for $74. It is not unusual for Sabre. BEWARE..or learn the hard way like me.

 

[redwing52]

I have had good luck with the Cole Hersee solenoids. Any of the tp five are the same except for the mount. They can handle 200 amps intermittent with 500 amp inrush. Plenty enough. They also have a 16 ohm coil so that is less than 1 amp on the switches which I like. Take notice if you buy a marine solenoid as some/most are rated at less than 100 amps.Below is a schematic that shows the insulated (isolated) base. I know the old Dodge, Plymouth and Chryslers used the insulated base. I think about 1960 or so should work.