I suppose because you can buy one anywhere.
GL1200 solenoid connections
I have a Ford Napa STH404 starter solenoid to replace the cheap ones that keep causing me problems. My question is the connections. Please correct me if these are wrong:
Yellow/red wire to "S" terminal. (switch)
Green/red wire to solenoid base (ground)
Nothing on "I" terminal
Battery on bottom post
Starter on top post
Have directions, just not for green/red wire.
Yellow/red wire to "S" terminal. (switch)
Green/red wire to solenoid base (ground)
Nothing on "I" terminal
Battery on bottom post
Starter on top post
Have directions, just not for green/red wire.
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When I originally done the Tricky's Modification (eliminating the dogbone and adding a spade fuse, taking the red and red/white wires out of the 4p connector), soldered the stator wires, replaced the starter and solenoid (starter stuck engaged). This was shortly after I got the bike. I now keep it on a battery tender too.
Anyway, I replaced the solenoid with what looked like exactly identical to the old one. And since I had removed the red and red/white wires from the connector and soldered an inline spade fuse then direct to battery, that left the 4p connector with only the starter switch wire and the green/red wire (clutch safety ground).
Well, I plugged it in wrong, and sent current to the little diode under the seat frying it. To accommodate the non-oem solenoid, someone had cut off the connector sides that only allow it to go on one way.
I fixed that with a new diode.
So you see why I'm reluctant to just try connections there without being double doggone sure, lol.
So today my replacement starter came in, I put it on, and it works/sounds great. It goes: ffft boom and starts instantly. Well, not really boom, but you know what it sounds like when it first starts up. I have the EFI so no choke problems, or cold start, or nothing. Just hit the starter and pow!, it doesn't hesitate or drag.
So I took a long awaited anxious ride, after adjusting my Voyager trike preload. (Right after I had moved it to do the preload adjustment, the starter stuck, so I havent ridden it after the adjustment. Not till just now, went for an hour ride. 75 degrees here in Florida.
Thanks guys, didn't mean to stir up a mess, just trying to make double doggone sure about wiring it up. And maybe help soneone later who needs the same help.
Anyway, I replaced the solenoid with what looked like exactly identical to the old one. And since I had removed the red and red/white wires from the connector and soldered an inline spade fuse then direct to battery, that left the 4p connector with only the starter switch wire and the green/red wire (clutch safety ground).
Well, I plugged it in wrong, and sent current to the little diode under the seat frying it. To accommodate the non-oem solenoid, someone had cut off the connector sides that only allow it to go on one way.
I fixed that with a new diode.
So you see why I'm reluctant to just try connections there without being double doggone sure, lol.
So today my replacement starter came in, I put it on, and it works/sounds great. It goes: ffft boom and starts instantly. Well, not really boom, but you know what it sounds like when it first starts up. I have the EFI so no choke problems, or cold start, or nothing. Just hit the starter and pow!, it doesn't hesitate or drag.
So I took a long awaited anxious ride, after adjusting my Voyager trike preload. (Right after I had moved it to do the preload adjustment, the starter stuck, so I havent ridden it after the adjustment. Not till just now, went for an hour ride. 75 degrees here in Florida.
Thanks guys, didn't mean to stir up a mess, just trying to make double doggone sure about wiring it up. And maybe help soneone later who needs the same help.
Any recommendations on a cheap, reliable solenoid? These $7 ebay aftermarket ones keep burning out.
From what I'm reading a marine one is the best? What happens if I get the NAPA one - the clutch has to be engaged?
From what I'm reading a marine one is the best? What happens if I get the NAPA one - the clutch has to be engaged?
Have you considered an OEM? They actually work, offer the correct polarity and last over 30 years.
I considered it but the first one I had was OEM. Then went through a few cheap ones. I'm looking for something else now, I'm about to order a new starter also so I want everything bulletproof. Might even redo the wires.
Any recommendations or should I just go with the NAPA one?
Any recommendations or should I just go with the NAPA one?
I like to use what are called a continuous duty solenoids. Learned about them working with snowplows. Here is the thing a starter solenoid is and never will be intended to be continuously activated its supposed to be activated for short spans of time just enough to fire the engine up. But if you were to use that starter solenoid to run a snow plow lift pump it wouldn't hold up it would deteriorate quickly due to overheating because you are constantly activating the plow pump motor which is why they require continuous duty rated solenoidThat's a good idea about usage of the "I" connection, that is if one were to worry about not hearing the starter staying engaged. It's not a very loud sound, so I will strongly consider that option. On the solenoid, I did isolate the base, and attached the clutch diode wire (green/red - ground) to the base. I also cut off the two mounting wings to make installation easier. The instructions do indicate "M" and "B" connections (stater and battery), so I connected them accordingly. Did have to drill out the holes on the ring terminals that went to the battery and the starter to make them a tad bigger to fit on the larger posts on the new solenoid. I changed the other ring terminals that go to my key switch and accessories to larger ones, (I have the dogbone eliminated). The starter button wire and the ground clutch diode wire I had to cut loose from the connector and add ring terminals, of course. Waiting on my replacement starter. But I can tell the solenoid is different. It's instantaneous in it's action and release. I've read a lot of good stuff about this solenoid. And also about the marine one, but not as much. Cars and trucks are in use more than boats may be the reason. In either case, both are much better by far than the cheap a.. solenoid I had on there. Just a note, never buy a cheap solenoid. Too many amps going through there.
21 - 27 of 27 Posts
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