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Hey fellow wingers! I was wondering what kind of output the stator had in a 1984 GL1200. The Haynes manual said it had an output of -1 amp at idle, increasing to an output of 8 amps at 5000 rpm. However, I thought I had understood the capacity to be around 300 watts (23 amps). Is the spec published in the Haynes manual the net output (subtracting the headlight and other electronic components), or is the stator just a whole lot weaker than I thought?

I ask this because I just bought a bike with a bad stator, and I want to start off on the right foot with the new one. (I've already fixed the connector block...) I just wanted to make sure my Gerbing's and such doesn't tax the system unnecessarily.

Thanks!
 

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Remember in your math, the stator output is appx 60vac.

Now re-do your math.

:)
 

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As I recall .... the regular 1200s were 360 watts at 5,000 rpm and thatit was the LTDs and those gorgeousSEis that had 500 watt alternators.



:?

 

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Thats my understanding also, I had mine rewound, but just a thought, from memory I read that you can fit a 500 watt SEi stator to replace the "standard" 350watt one, but you need a different regulator and perhaps different housing (from an SEi) to physically install the larger stator. If you can, it would probably be beneficial, extra lighting etc? Maybe someone could confirm this please?
 

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So you're saying the output is 480 watts at 5000 rpm?

I had no idea that it was 60V, I was operating under the assumption that it was 13/13.5V. That makes much more sense for a bike this size. Where did you find the voltage the stator operated at? I'm sorry, I don't have the manual in front of me, I had to make a call to get the amperage even.

Is that 60V RMS or 60V peak? I'm sorry, it's been so long since physics class...
 

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Aha! two more replies while I was munching on dinner! Yes, I had thought it was more in the 350 range as well, so hopefully the Gerbing's won't be too much of a load then.
 

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Your math is fine.
The manual is talking about net output for charging/accessories after running all systems.

As far as using a LTD/SEi stator for higher output. If the stator doesn't fit in the origanal rear case it can't be done as the 84 rear case is one of a kind.
 

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The Stator puts out a AC wave form the rectifier changes the AC wave form to 12-13.5 VDC.
 

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Oh, and Groutby, I just had that idea about 30 minutes ago myself. It makes perfect sense that you could interchange the current model for the larger stator. Only thing is, I ordered the normal stator from Rick's last week and I don't feel like switching it now that the engine is back in the old iron horse. But great idea! :cheesygrin:
 

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Wow you guys are good. I can't type replies fast enough to keep up! I had wondered if it might have been the net output that was listed in the manual. That's helpful, since net output is what I really need to know in order to stay within the limits.
 

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Those larger500 watt alternator stators take a different rear case on the engine. I don't know for sure about the rotor, maybe that too as well as reg/rectifier.
 

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Williamgl1200 wrote:
Wow you guys are good. I can't type replies fast enough to keep up! I had wondered if it might have been the net output that was listed in the manual. That's helpful, since net output is what I really need to know in order to stay within the limits.
Just remember that the output you quoted was at 5,000 RPM and your bike only runs at 2,830 RPM in OD and 60MPH.:cheesygrin:
 

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Yep .... once I get the revs up near 1500-2000 ... up over a fast idle anyway .... I always seemed to have a steady volt reading right at 14(SunPro 2"needle type) but it will kick back a hair at lower RPMs when Iam slowing for a light and apply brakes where as at 65 mph, the needle only flickers and bounces back.

Flip the twin Unity Fogs on ( 37.5 watts each X 2 = 75 watts) and it'll still stay steady at 14 at highway speeds but the application of brakes drops it tojust over 13 when those four 27 watt filaments light up.



:action:
 

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the stock stator puts out 28 amps at full rpm and nothing at idle.

After my alternator upgrade I now have 60 amps all the time.
 

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if you have done the three normal electrical connector upgrades and have stock lighting you will probably be okay as long as you are using just the gerbing gloves

using gloves and jacket liner at speeds less than 3000 rpm your stator output and charging system will be marginal

with my original system using just heated gloves mine wouldn;t keep up but i also had a 90/100watt hedlight too at the time

now that i poorboy'd the system,driving lights and heated clothing doesn't drop the system below the normal 14.2 volt charge except when at idle

normal draw on a stock aspencade using all standard lightning bulbs etc is about 16 amps and about 20-21 amps with brakelights on,using heated gloves and jacket liner(9 amps) fulltime puts the stock stator just about in the overload area even if all connectors are perfect

with the gerbings using w/o a controller,i'd be surprised if you ran them fulltime unless you were riding in 20 deg weather and your riding jacket was really summertime duty
 

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unionjk wrote:
the stock stator puts out 28 amps at full rpm and nothing at idle.
I'm afraid that you've been misinformed.
The stator puts out enough to run the bike and stock lighting at idle with some leftover for battery charging.

Of course with brake lights lite, cooling fan running and aftermarket lights etc. running it will not keep up at idle and slowly discharge the battery.
 

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I agree with Ken. At idle, assuming your idle is set near 1000 =/- 100 rpm, the stator should be producing enough to run all system circuits. The amount left over for charging may be minimal and increased rpm will add to the charge rate, but if your stator is producing at least 14A per leg at idle, you should be fine.
 
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